53 replies to this topic

[TOMMO0302]

Bleeding is a pain in the arse mate....but i say that as someone that has not used an Easibleed system either...so maybe thats the not so secret secret!?

[Sprocket]

Easi blead uses pressure to push the air out. Regular bleading uses vacuum to suck the fluid in. Doing the latter, if you have a leaky anything will cause air to be drawn in.

Easi Blead is a symplified, much smaller and cost effective version of the BIG ones that the garages use.

How it works, it pressurises the fluid resevoir. The resevoir is open to the two brake circuits via two small holes in the master cylinder bores while the piston is at the bottom (pedal NOT depressed). This in effect is like a continious pedal depression that never ends. You can now go round the blead nipples in the correct order ( which I thought was closest first, next closest, next closest again and then the last one).

It is the only way you should be bleading brakes these days, the kit is cheap enough. Several people have said this, so My advice is to take their advice and buy one, you have probibly used the cost of one in wasted brake fluid.

Consider this though, if you are bleading the brakes in the conventional manner and there are old or original cylinders ( and thats all of them) air is most likely being drawn in through them.

I said it once before and I shall say it again

Don't muck around with brakes by cheap skating it, its the only thing STOPPING you :saywhat: . Replace the master cylinder and suspecting that you have drums on the front wheels, replace ALL the slave cylinders and a complete set of shoes ALL of the same brand, front and back :gasp: . If your pipes are in good condition you should have very little trouble for some time to come . Sounds a big job and over the top, but I ended up replacing the whole lot on my 83 mini 10 years ago after chasing a dodgy braking fault for weeks. Do the lot and jobs done Unless there's evidence that some of this has been done. Thats my advice but I'm sure some one will say otherwise Don't mess about with your life, replace the whole lot.

http://www.theminifo...94

[minislapper]

Don't mess about with your life, replace the whole lot.

It's not just his he's messing with.

If you have faulty brakes on your car DO NOT DRIVE IT UNTIL IT IS RECTIFIED.

Not only are you putting yourself and others in danger, if you have a crash and the police/insurance company find out you knowingly drove your car with faulty brakes, you will be in big trouble.

If you can't afford to get it fixed then buy a bike !!!! >

[Jammy]

you do make a good point. what the hell could it be....apart from air.

Did you read my post about perished rubber hoses??

[Big_Adam]

well today i finaly gave in......it when to the mechanic who now says that basicaly everything is bugged. which to be honest i don't belive in even the slightest. saying that he can't get fluid from one of the cylinder. which is a load of C**p as i got pleanty of fluid thro them. then annoying thing is the brakes were working driving down to there. now he's replaceing this that and the other. saying the masters broken.

so bye bye money!

[TOMMO0302]

oh....on the positive side at least you will be safe! Are you sure you didn't manage to sort it yourself though if they were fine (you might have just got that last bit of air out?)

[Jammy]

I can't see how you can complain about money going bye-bye, its your own decision as to whether you pay someone else to do it for you.

You could have changed the rubber hoses if any of them looked in bad condition (£2-3 each), then moved onto the master cylinder if that didn't work. Would of cost you £120 tops (if your buying a new master cylinder as well, I'm sure a TMF member would have had one a lot cheaper). But now your going to have a massive labour bill, as well as however much the guy decides to charge you for parts! Seems a little backwards to me.

[Nial]

are you telling me to adjust my brakes so their on all the time?!?

Go back and read what I wrote in my first post. If you can't be bothered reading it I can't be
bothered repeating it.

well the last time i had a drum that was tight i came rather close to setting my car on fire. the drums got so hot they would steam away very nicly with a little snow (this is back in winter)

So there's a good chance you've overheated them so badly they're out of shape.

When you adjust them, the only way to get to the point where you can freely rotate the wheel is
to back the adjuster _way_ off. This means the cylinder's got to move much further to get any pressure
on the shoes.

also it isn't i can get a decent pedal presusre its that i get NO pressure till the 3rd pump. if i keep my foot down so there is pressure on the pedal then it will hold pressure. if i leave it for a few secs all that pressure go's

That's exactly the symptom I'm talking about. You've got to pump the pedal to get the cylinders to move
out enough to get any pressure on the drums. When they're out far enough you'll get a good pedal that
will hold the pressure.

When you take your foot off the brake the springs on the shoes will bring them all the way back in, pushing
all the fluid back into the master cylinder resevoir.

Nial.

Edited by Nial, 13 July 2006 - 03:05 PM.

[Big_Adam]

Go back and read what I wrote in my first post. If you can't be bothered reading it I can't be
bothered repeating it.

i have, and it still sounds like i'd have the problem of drums overheating. i mean mine were only a bit on and they got damn hot. so even if it worked for you. i'm still not going to do it. thansk for the advice tho.

@ jammy_basturd, lenny is a sort of friend of the family so he's not too bad. Also i will always complain about money going bye bye as i have NO source of income. none. nothing. nada. i;ve been trying to find a job for the last 2 years. so please excuse me if i complain about money that i've saved for many years being spent.