41 replies to this topic

[Ethel]

You can use the online parts catalogues, like  Moss's to look up the part number and then the spec in the listing at the back (or just google it).

 

There's plenty of good info online about fasteners, both ISO (metric) and SAE (Mini flavour). ISO 8.8 / SAE grade 5 in BZP or chromate are suitable for most jobs. Stainless looks good, but often isn't suitable for a variety of reasons.

[fenghuang]

..., what's your intended project? ... some custom work, total top to tail rebuild, front subframes, engine build????

Some custom work (though not of great consequence to this question), some general repairs and upgrades, subframes as and when necessary, engine repairs (mostly leaks at the moment) and upgrade of ancillaries.

[Spider]

 

..., what's your intended project? ... some custom work, total top to tail rebuild, front subframes, engine build????

Some custom work (though not of great consequence to this question), some general repairs and upgrades, subframes as and when necessary, engine repairs (mostly leaks at the moment) and upgrade of ancillaries.

 

 

 

I'd actually suggest sticking with Imperial. There are many threaded holes, some in the body and there are also some in the subframes, there's also some welded studs too. While there could be re-threaded to Metric, in the case of the studs, you'll be under sizing which would weaken them, and in the case of the threaded holes, you'll need to enlarge them, which may make it difficult to fit parts over them. Not sure what it's like your way, but here Imperial is almost as easy to come by as Metric and costs around the same.

 

If buying Boxed quanitiies (which I find around half to quarter the price of loose fasteners), just buy Grade 8. There was a mix of mostly Grade 5 and Grade 8 when the cars were built, but for all that come to mind, you won't have an issue fitting Grade 8 in all of them.

 

I'll post a chart later.

Edited by Moke Spider, 09 January 2015 - 04:35 AM.

[Spider]

Imperial Fastener ID Chart as promissed;-

 

 

There is a little other useful info to be gleaned from this as well, in particular Stainless Fasteners. If considering these, I'd suggest not to use them, they don't have any Tensile Strength (not much in any case, around Grade 2), and if used against Steel Parts, they usually cause the Steel to rust pretty quick.

 

Nuts can be a little harder to properly ID, some have markings and some don't, about all that can be done with these is looking at what is on the box, even if buying loose. In regards to purchasing them, as I've mentioned before, find an Industrial Fastener Supplier for your everyday Bolts, Nuts and Washers.

 

Also, something that's not on that Chart, the difference between a bolt and a set screw. A Bolt will have around 1" of thread and the rest of the shank will be plain up to the head, were as a Set Screw is threaded all the way to the Head.

 

Hex Head Bolt:-

 

 

 

Hex Head Set Screw;-

 

 

 

Head Types. There are a few Head Types, Hex Head, In-Hex, Phillips, Torx, Posidrive etc.  While In-Hex (that you would use an Allen Key for) look 'tech' they are a pain in the bum, the Keys have to be lined up pretty perfect to get them in, and that's not always easy on a car. I'd suggest for most stuff, sticking with Hex Head and Phillips Head, although there maybe some interior bits you might like to use In-Hex Fasteners for the apperance of them, however, be aware that 'Black' finish ones will rust.

 

Fastener Finish. I'd suggest just Zinc Plated, these are usually available in a 'silver' look or a 'gold' look (like most Jap cars have), talking to the guys who do my plating, one is no better than the other. Don't use Galvanised though as these have next to no Tensile Strength (as a result of the Galvanising prosess). Any that come in to contact will Alloy Parts, I Grease to prevent any galvanic reaction, though there are some 'fancy' grease products available.

 

Another reason for suggesting Imperial Fasteners agian comes back to threaded holes that you will also find on the Engine and Gearbox.

 

I see and agree that in some ways Metric makes more sence and if you were to design and build  from a clean sheet, this is what I'd use, but I feel in the case of something like the Mini, you'd very quickly box yourself in and end up with a mix that wouldn't have any logic and be a poor comprimise.

Edited by Moke Spider, 09 January 2015 - 06:25 AM.

[frobnitzz]

Great thread this (see what I did there) :)

[fenghuang]

Awesome. Thanks again Spider.
It never occurred to me that the marks on hex heads had any meaning!

If buying a mixed bag, any words of wisdom on sizes?
From all the above I'm thinking UNC up to 5/8" would probably a good starting point to cover most jobs( that don't require specialist bolts).

[Spider]

Glad that was of help.

 

Just to get in to Spring Washers a little, these come in different Grades too, from Light to Heavy, here's a chart;-

 

 

Many you'll find on a Mini are in the Meduim to Heavy Grade. (and if I can send a message to some of the guys making Ball Joints, these have Heavy Grade Spring Washers, not the twisted bit of wire that we get with them).

 

Most of the Fasteners on a Mini are 5/16" UNF, if buying 'loose' then I'd suggest for starters getting a box of 5/16" UNF Nuts, you'll 'burn' through those in short time, as well as a box of 5/16 x 11/16 x 14G Flat Washers and a Box of 5/16" Heavy Grade Spring Washers.

 

As for 'bolts', maybe a starting point;-

 

5/16" UNF

   5/8" Long

   1"

   1-1/2"

   2"

 

Probably the next most common size is 1/4" UNF, so say 20 - 30 Nuts, 50 1/4 x 3/8" Flat Washers, and about 50 Medium / Heavy Grade Spring Washers.

 

In terms of 'bolts';-

  

1/4 UNF

     3/4" Long

     1-1/4"

 

I had another look this afternoon at the stuff on offer from A Series that some of the other guys suggested early in this thread, they really seemed to have improved their range and it seems have gone to some effort. Perhaps some of their kits might also be a good starting point.

 

http://www.aseriessp...are/cat_45.html

Edited by Moke Spider, 09 January 2015 - 09:10 AM.

[fenghuang]

Too helpful Spider. If you were more local I'd buy you a pint ... and then probably try to talk you into doing the work for me.

[Spider]

Too helpful Spider. If you were more local I'd buy you a pint ... and then probably try to talk you into doing the work for me.

 

Cheers for the thought

[Mini Manannán]

 

Too helpful Spider. If you were more local I'd buy you a pint ... and then probably try to talk you into doing the work for me.

 

Cheers for the thought

 

 

Are you sure you don't fancy moving to the Isle of Man Spider?

[Spider]

 

Are you sure you don't fancy moving to the Isle of Man Spider?

 

 

 

 

Bhahaha,,,  Does the Isle of Man have an Outback like we have here in Aust?

[Mini Manannán]

 

 

Are you sure you don't fancy moving to the Isle of Man Spider?

 

 

 

 

Bhahaha,,,  Does the Isle of Man have an Outback like we have here in Aust?

 

 

Couple of fields behind my house, would that do?