38 replies to this topic

[Steve-O 2014]

Its a HIF38

[dklawson]

Others will have to advise you on the best way to check and set the float level on HIF carbs.  I am much more familiar with HS series carbs.

[KernowCooper]

Here you go

Attached Files

•  float level HIF.png   190.81K   12 downloads

[Steve-O 2014]

Thanks I will have a check, weather is not the best at the moment for working outside…. lol

[Minigirl]

.

Edited by Minigirl, 17 January 2015 - 09:05 PM.

[Steve-O 2014]

had a look, sanded the contacts down inside the dizzy cap until clean as when testing with the contin. meter I was getting poor reading and also the rotor arm, car fired but very very spluttery. When running I tried pressing the accelerator pedal and it was instant stall of the engine.

 

Also checked the spark from the coil and sometimes it was a orange colour / shade too it, does that indicate a weak spark? Also the sparks ranged from very dull to medium dullness to bright sparks

 

 

I have the carb off now as well to look at it.

[KernowCooper]

Orange spark does indicate a weak spark it should be a bright blue, have you checked your coil voltage and what coil your running

[Steve-O 2014]

Coil is wired up with a 12 volt feed. The coil is still the Gold Lucas thats reading 2.6 ohms or what ever is was (Im sure it used to be over 3 ohms when I tested it months ago)

 

Just trying everything before spending money on a coil first

[Steve-O 2014]

Float valve seems to be working fine and needle seems to be moving up and down Freely.... one thing i noticed was the fuel wasnt too nice looking that was in the carb... my dad said it could have been water mixed with it

[dklawson]

For the orange spark, try a new condenser (assuming your car has a points ignition system).

[cal844]

Id suggest a strip and rebuild of the carb, very easy

[Steve-O 2014]

Stuck the carb back on but still not running :-( Will order a new coil and condenser / points or just go for electronic ignition instead of points but might be best to get it running first before going electronic?… 

 

Also going to do a compression test as well would that be worth doing?

 

thanks

Edited by Steve-O 2014, 20 January 2015 - 06:55 PM.

[dklawson]

Compression and/or leak-down tests can reveal problems.  Definitely worth doing.  Remember during the compression test to pull all the spark plugs and hold the throttle wide open while cranking the engine on the starter.  It's preferable to do this with a warm engine but I know that's currently not an option.

 

I agree that it would be best to get the car running on points before moving on to electronic ignition.  Try the new points and condenser first.  They are less expensive than the coil.  While coils do go bad, they don't go bad often.  Many times when you press a person who says a new coil fixed their car's problem they will eventually get around to saying that "Oh yeah, I changed the plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor, points and condenser too... but I know it was the coil".  Try the cheap parts first.

[Steve-O 2014]

will this kit be ok just to check?

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item1c348c02df

 

Is there anyway to test the condenser? 

 

Should I change the coil anyway since it is reading the wrong ohms?

[Steve-O 2014]

Compression test

 

1 - 160psi

2 - 158psi

3 - 156psi

4 - 161psi