947 replies to this topic

[jack_marshall]

Good work laddo.

Really would try to find a gas welder. Just so much better than gasless.

P.S

Are you really doing all the grinding, cutting and welding on the street without the neighbours going nuts?!

[Dog]

Yep everything is being done on the street!!

I was only expecting it to be the sills..... spoke to soon really, as the sills led to the boot, the led to subframe off.... eventully full strip down, and weld resto on the street lol

The neighbours prob do goes nuts when I am out there... but they all know what I am like with my Minis! they know if this one goes.... another will be soon arriving lol

I am tring to keep this project cheap, as I havn't got alot avalible to spend at the moment, so I'll just have to put up with the gasless.... best thing is, because I am getting so A+++++ penitration, I might just weld it up, and grind to near flat! Its only patches, so its not toooooo bad, I've still got the sills to do, and well on the search for a spot welder to do them!

My aim is to get all the welding done, by the end of September, so I can push the Mini into the garage, where it will sit for the winter! in the mean time, I'll build my engine.

[dougie_10 :D]

Tis a good plan of yours me thinks.

What you may want to do is get a dehumidifier for your garage for the winter so there is no chance of getting rust whilst the mini is in storage.

Also , what spec is the engine going to be?

Edited by dougie_10 :D, 16 August 2006 - 09:20 PM.

[Alburglar]

Dog. I used no gas for ages and you only need to dress the welds lightly, then immediately put seam sealer on them. once the paint is on then the patches don't look bad at all.

[Dog]

I have a councel garage... no power, no water... no nothing, just a dry-ish place to dump stuff lol

So it'll be sat up there, full rust treated.

engine spec.... no compeletely 100% rock solid thought about it yet...
but something along the lines of;

Twin HIF4's
MSPD trackday head
276 Kent cam
duplex timing chain
1330 a+ block
worked crank (wedged, balenced etc)
ultralight flywheel
4 bolt CMS
SC drops
SC box
3.44 final drive
4 pin diff

Running on 10's

Like I said, the only things that are rock solid deffo, are the twin HIF4's and 10" wheels....

[dougie_10 :D]

Sounds like it will be a fast road /track car with useable gear on it. Looks forward to it. I would love to be able to have the option of doing a high spec engine but insurance will not allow me :'( :'( :'( (only 16) :'(

[Dog]

No harm in looking how to build engines yourself mate.

Get an old 998 or something, and learn how to strip it, possablely rebuild it, and run it in your Mini. Least you'll have the knowledge how to strip, and build an engine to a spec you want later on, its what I did.

Engines IMO are the most expensive bits to Minis, as, unless your an engine engineer, you have the buy bits from other people, rather than you being able to make your own, unlike body panels etc.

[dougie_10 :D]

No harm in looking how to build engines yourself mate.

Get an old 998 or something, and learn how to strip it, possablely rebuild it, and run it in your Mini. Least you'll have the knowledge how to strip, and build an engine to a spec you want later on, its what I did.

Engines IMO are the most expensive bits to Minis, as, unless your an engine engineer, you have the buy bits from other people, rather than you being able to make your own, unlike body panels etc.

yer thats a good idea and i could do that to my engine now (Running 998). Cheers for advice mate, any idea when the engine build is going to commence then?

[Dog]

No harm in looking how to build engines yourself mate.

Get an old 998 or something, and learn how to strip it, possablely rebuild it, and run it in your Mini. Least you'll have the knowledge how to strip, and build an engine to a spec you want later on, its what I did.

Engines IMO are the most expensive bits to Minis, as, unless your an engine engineer, you have the buy bits from other people, rather than you being able to make your own, unlike body panels etc.

yer thats a good idea and i could do that to my engine now (Running 998). Cheers for advice mate, any idea when the engine build is going to commence then?

When I've finished my welding... so as its a bank holiday next weekend, I might start it then.

Need to get the block rebored, paint stripped off, and ready for rebuild.

[Dog]

Ok after a fun packed weekend on learning how water proof my skin is.....
I set about finishing my boot off after work

Started at 6, finished by 8!

Otherside, primed and roughly painted... as you can see, my welding has improved
I also found out, how badly Pattern parts fit... the Left hand side needed loads choping off, this side needed to be tapped down, to reach the sides!


And remember I said, my welding might look like pigeon poo, but look at this AMAZING penitration


After that the inside of my boot is now finished, I just need to trim a little bits, to get my valance to fit now

I really like matt black lol


Also, tried test fitting my new £20 flip front....


I am getting there
List of rear end jobs to do...

Finish cutting out rear bins,
weld wheel arches,
fit new valance,
De bumper rear valance,
cut and fit new sills,
Weld new sills,
Chop off the front,

Fingers crossed its nice the weekend

[minivanman]

Looking good, dog. That flippy is riding a tad high IMHO though - you may want to fettle that a bit

[Dog]

Its not actully fitted....
My front is still on, so its just plonked on top atm!

Still need to make the brace bars etc for it yet, but a bit of good news, found out my brakes, and wheels will be with me by mid september

[minivanman]

I was trying to make a witty comment. doh.

[Purple Tom]

Looking good dude! Sometimes if you want to avoid the pigeon poo look on the welding, take a grinder with a grinding wheel (not cutting), and just fettle the welds down to get them smooth. They won't lose any strength and will look a load better!

[Dog]

Looking good dude! Sometimes if you want to avoid the pigeon poo look on the welding, take a grinder with a grinding wheel (not cutting), and just fettle the welds down to get them smooth. They won't lose any strength and will look a load better!

I might just do that yet... thanks for the tip...

Any tips on Debumpering, with a NEW valance? I am thinking of welding it from behind, then cutting off what I don't need, then weld to fill any holes, grind then smooth over with a little filler?

Reminds me, did you get the belt Tom? did it fit ok?