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Electronic Choke Control


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#16 Stevelee10

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Posted 31 March 2015 - 07:36 PM

i havn`t bought the knobs yet just trying stuff out, altho i have made some developments with my idea today, just need to beef up the power supply a bit, 4.8v just doesnt cut it. the servo only has 10.4kg/[email protected] but at 6v its 12.8kg/cm which should work spot on. just need to refine it a little and do the same for the heater then mount the 2 potentiometers on the dash in place of the push pulls and get some knobs. i was looking at these ones http://www.ebay.co.u...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

 

20150331_200153_zps9bauqml1.jpg

 

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#17 Stevelee10

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Posted 31 March 2015 - 07:39 PM

If you had a rotary switch with an off position, you could use That as Auto and keep a choke override.
At you planning the same servo control for servo control of the heater valve?
Do you have a pic of the knobs you're using?

good idea, might see if i can find a potentiometer with a switch attached so i can have that option



#18 fenghuang

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Posted 31 March 2015 - 09:10 PM

Maybe one with a push for on/off and rotate?
Perhaps LEDs above the knob to indicate state?

I'll be watching your progress with great interest. I've got a list of thoughts for Arduino/Mini control, despite only having ever looked at the code!

#19 Stevelee10

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Posted 31 March 2015 - 09:28 PM

ive posted this in the projects page

 

http://www.theminifo...ntrolled-choke/



#20 Icey

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Posted 31 March 2015 - 10:47 PM

First thing you need to sort before anything is getting a clean power supply. Either a buck or LM9x regulator isn't enough. Cars are very, very noisey places. Get low voltage sensors working without false triggers and then decide what to do with it.

Reading engine sensors is an intereresting project, there is lots of reference material around so it should be good fun.

#21 Stevelee10

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Posted 31 March 2015 - 11:01 PM

i build fuel management systems for marine diesel engines for a living, so shouldnt be to difficult. i was using an lm7805 but the output is 5v at a max of 1A the servo requires 6v at 1200mA so gonna build a better power supply.



#22 Ethel

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Posted 31 March 2015 - 11:56 PM

I did mine almost identically, but  you're ahead if yours is on a running car. If the servo's struggling, you could let the choke return spring unwind a bit, or even remove it as the servo can push in both directions and there's no cable to pull. 

 

Have you done anything on the control side yet? An Arduino could be put to good use, you could start by mapping your temperature sensors against the servo's pot as you control the choke manually, then write a sketch to drive the servo to the same map. Be sure to keep us updated, it'll save me a job  :P

 

Just watched the vid... I'd say you could help yourself by sorting out the linkage a bit. Aim to get the tie rod acting as close to perpendicular to the choke cam  as you can. Then get the maximum available travel out of the servo by reducing the length of its lever.



#23 Stevelee10

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Posted 01 April 2015 - 07:19 AM

 im going to make some changes tonight, this was just my first attempt, quite happy with the results but need to do some tweeking, then i need to map the temp sensor, so might do that tonight when i get home from work, bit to windy to do anything else with the car.






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