41 replies to this topic

[clayey6891]

I recently had problems with my mini Mayfair 998cc turning over but not starting. This turned out to be the points in the distributor not set right and solved the problem.

I have just fitted the mini spares stage one kit and now the car is turning over and not starting again. The car turns over at s good speed but makes no sounds like it's even going to attempt to fire.

I have done/checked the following:
-fuel is pumping out of fuel line to carb
-each spark plug is sparking
-new coil
-new rotor arm
- new dizzy cap (carefully on same way as old)
- the plugs + hit leads (changed one at a time)
-new battery & engine earths
- battery charged
- new choke cable (fitted when doing stage one)

I have noticed fuel is leaking from the inlet to carb when I turn it over. Could this mean the carbs blocked or not letting the fuel in somehow?

I have to call it a day for now but would be interested to know what people think so I have a game plan to come back at it with because I currently stumped!

Cheers,
Jake

[clayey6891]

This photo show where fuel is leaking from

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[ChopperHarris]

First, get a clip on that pipe!
Secondly, block the pipe visible in pic 2 between the float bowl and carb.
Thirdly, in pic 2 the carb to manifold gasket doesn't look compressed...is it?

[clayey6891]

Thanks for a quick response.
Yeah a clip would be the obvious thing wouldn't it! Doh!
What is the pipe for that is open ended which I need to block?
The carb to manifold all feels tight, I will double check it when I get home tonight but think it's compressed. If not I will tighten it up.
I'll report back with my findings.

[clayey6891]

Just realised its you again chopper Harris, I'll have to start paying you at this rate!

[blacktulip]

first, check the carb piston lifts freely, then get a small cap of petrol (bottle lid) and pour it carefully down the air intake elbow at the back of the carb and then turn it over. if it starts then you have a blockage or the float bowl valve is stuck.

[89miniflame]

the clips have been slid back on the fuel pipes in the 1st pic so move the to the end where the connect. and as said by chopper the breather needs connecting (is the hose disconnected ?) or blocking off, that could be leaning out the mixture hugely & causing the problem.

[ChopperHarris]

That pipe connects to an engine breather to recirculate engine pollution back into the combustion process. Just block it, best way is to put a short section of hose on it, then a tight fitting bolt pushed into the hose...that will suffice for the moment.

Pleased to help

[clayey6891]

Ok guys so I've had another dabble. I've tidied up the pipes with clips and bolts which didn't start it but looks better and petrol isn't flying everywhere now!

Then I poured a cap of petrol in the air intake on the carb and the car fired up. So I guess the problem lies with the float bowl? What should I do next?

Also smoke (fumes not fire) was coming from the manifold or connection from down pipe to back box, hard to tell, so I will need to check everything is gap free and tight.

I will attach a photo of clips with me pointing to where I tipped petrol for your viewing pleasure!

[clayey6891]

First photo shows clips and bolts with finger pointing to where fuel was tipped. Second general photo of where smoke came from. Sorry if photos are wonky etc I'm doing this all on my phone

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[pierres]

Does not look like you have put a gasket between manifold and cylinder head

[clayey6891]

There is a new manifold there

[dklawson]

In ChopperHarris' first post he commented about your second picture and the gasket between the carb and manifold.  Is the bracket with the threaded stud "flat" with gaskets on both sides?  It looks like it is warped which may be creating a nice air leak.  The air leak could be severe enough to lean the mixture so the car will only run on full choke and/or with that extra gas you poured down the carb throat.

[clayey6891]

Do you mean the stud that's threaded on both ends? No it isn't flush, I had troubles with that so got it to a state of 'tight but not flush'. The studs are quite worn from messing around trying to get the nuts off so maybe I should buy some in the morning and change those over.

Also I've been looking at the carb float chamber. As fuel is coming out of the pipe into the chamber and not getting to the carb (as proved by tipping petrol in the air intake?) do you think there could be some issues there? There is about 1/2 inch of fuel in the float chamber I presume this is normal?

I've attached photos showing the none flush stud and fuel in float chamber.

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[dklawson]

Do you mean the stud that's threaded on both ends? 

Also I've been looking at the carb float chamber. As fuel is coming out of the pipe into the chamber and not getting to the carb (as proved by tipping petrol in the air intake?) do you think there could be some issues there? There is about 1/2 inch of fuel in the float chamber I presume this is normal?
 

 

No, I am not talking about the stud itself.  Going back to the pictures, you have the carb, a gasket, a bracket, a gasket, a spacer, a gasket, and finally... the manifold.  I am talking about the two gaskets on each side of the bracket sandwiched between the carb and spacer.  It looks like there is a gap there and there shouldn't be.  Maybe it is just the angle of the camera.

 

The fuel level in the float bowl is too low.  1/2 to 2/3 full would be correct, 1/2" suggests that the float valve (in the lid) is partially blocked and needs cleaning. Or, the float itself is out of adjustment and it is shutting off the fuel flow way to early/low. 

 

Were I you, I would check the gaskets everywhere between the carb and cylinder head, making sure everything is fully tightened and that there are no gaps.  Then I would read over the sections in the manual that discuss the float valve, how to clean it, and how to set the float height.   The question I have is why float valve issues would suddenly show up as part of fitting a stage 1 kit.  Perhaps your float level was marginal before and is not up to the higher demands with the new parts fitted.  Adjusting the float level should help if that is the case.