41 replies to this topic

[clayey6891]

Ok thanks dklawson, I have a few hours tomorrow so will go through all of that. I'm pretty sure that there are no gaps there but it wouldn't be the first thing I've missed. The car was having trouble firing before which we put down to the points in the distributor being set poorly, maybe it was a combination of this and the float valve being set wrong.

Should there be any sealant/silicone between the manifolds? I read this somewhere but I thought you just put the manifold in and tighten things around it.

Thanks for your input today everybody, I feel like we're definitely getting somewhere if not quite there yet. Let's see what tomorrow will bring.

[dklawson]

Generally no sealant is used on any of these gaskets.  If I did feel the need to apply something I would select a non-hardening gasket sealer like Hylomar.  I would not use any sealant on the manifold gasket as the temperature of the exhaust would probably result in the sealant burning off anyway.

 

Let us know how you make out over the next few days.

[ChopperHarris]

May I suggest that while you have things apart in the future, ie carb off etc, you take the time to clean the outside at least. Preferably dismantle things and learn how they work. Time better spent doing that than fitting stage one kits etc. With a little knowledge you could probably get the engine to make more power with tuning and adjusting what you have already.

Don't mean to be patronising, just my take on things

[clayey6891]

Yeah, that's a fair comment chopper. I only ordered the stage one as everything had been running nice for months and thought I would learn something whilst fitting it. I'm certainly learning things which I'm happy about but like you say maybe I should've learnt more about what I had firstrather than adding/changing things.

[ChopperHarris]

Yep, and the cleaning/dismantling means that you can see leaks etc better when its in situ. Also if you dismantle stuff on the workbench you are less likely to lose bits, you can put a dab of oil on threads and pivots. If you have to dismantle in situ later on its easier and if its clean you get less muck on your hands!

[clayey6891]

Well I don't want to speak too soon but.... It's running! I took the fuel float out and the gap set was too big which explains why there wasn't much fuel in the chamber. As its an all plastic one there was no room for adjustments so I swapped it for a second hand one from MiniMail in Newent.

I then took the top of the carb off and with a straw from WD40 blew into the hose which leads back to the fuel float chamber. The line was blocked with some silty muck which was stopping the fuel getting to the carb.

Hopefully that is the end to the starting woes.

In regards to the smoke mentioned before, that was just a loose screw on the manifold and is no longer a problem.

I will bear in mind points you've made about learning about what I have before bolting more bits on on the future and will try and have a cleaner work ethic!

Thanks for your help once again, I would have been totally lost without your guidance.

[ChopperHarris]

result! well done ;o)

[clayey6891]

Cheers! Yeah it's great and I've learnt a lot which is even better. Now all I gotta do is try and get the dash screwed back in behind the choke cable (I think that will be the most frustrating job!) And a bit of tuning but all that will wait until next week.

[ChopperHarris]

Stuff behind the dash etc...its so quick to take the seats out so you can lie under.

Like what you have been doing to engine, take the bonnet off after marking the hinge positions take 2 minutes, makes the job 10 times easier!

[dklawson]

That's Great !  I'm glad you got the carb issues resolved without major problems. 

 

Since you found debris/muck in the tube between the float bowl and jet I assume you don't have an inline fuel filter and/or that the car has a lot of miles and has been sitting.  It's a good idea to fit an inline, translucent or clear fuel filter right before the carb to catch any silt and crud that may be in the fuel tank.

 

Thanks for posting your results.

[clayey6891]

That's a good idea I'll get the seats straight out of the way.

I'm glad there were no major problems too, I didn't think there would be but you never know!

I like the idea of an inline fuel filter and will definitely fit one next week. Sadly the car sits for a month at a time whilst I go away for work. I've got next week to work on it, so will hopefully get it running nicely just in time to lock it up in the garage and leave it for a month!

Edited by clayey6891, 14 August 2015 - 02:33 PM.

[dklawson]

For cheap, disposable filters consider the type that used to be commonly used on air cooled VWs.  They cost too much at the parts store but are often sold in reasonably priced packs on eBay.  They allow sufficient flow and you can really tell when they start to load up with silt.

 

[clayey6891]

Today I have refitted the dash and got the choke working nicely. Used your tip of removing the seats which made the job a lot easier as I could see what I was aiming for.

I have a inline fuel on order from eBay so that should come some time this week. It's not the one you recommend, as I ordered it Friday before reading your post, but it is similar so I'm sure it will be fine.

I've had a read through the Haynes manual in regards to timing/tickover and got it ticking over at just over 1000rpm once warmed up to temperature. I was aiming for 1000 but any closer to this and it just stalls.

My main current issue is I believe the accelerator cable is sticking. What happens is: once I apply my foot to the accelerator nothing happens for a second or so, then it will rev like crazy and do so for a couple of seconds after removing my foot. Does this sound like the cable sticking or could it be something to do with my 'tuning'?

I'm gunna give it a rest for today as I've had a few hours making a lot of noise with the engine revving highly and I think I'll give my neighbours some peace and quiet!

The good news is that the car is starting every time after a stall or turning it off and it is running at a nice temperature still after all my fiddling. I'm hoping to be able to take it for a drive by the end of the week before I have to go back to work (two months away from home :-/) at the end of the month! Fingers crossed.

[dklawson]

The slow throttle response could be a sticking cable or it could be the piston in the carb body is not rising and falling freely.  I would check both.

[clayey6891]

Cool cheers dk. May be a very stupid question here, should there be oil/lubricant of some sort in the carb? As I've had it open and been messing around in there should I put something back in to help the piston rise and fall freely?

 

Edit: Ok so I've done some more reading and concluded to what I initially suspected, it was a stupid question! There should be oil in the carb. This is more than likely why the throttle was sticking. So hopefully an easy fix tomorrow.

Edited by clayey6891, 17 August 2015 - 07:26 PM.