37 replies to this topic

[Alex_B]

It is all well and good blaming some mechanic however checking basic things on your vehicle such as the wheels are tight are important to know. Driving around in a car for a number of weeks that was producing loud clonking and banging without actually checking what was wrong wasn't the smartest move. I think actually blaming anyone for the issue will be hard to prove unless very recently some work was done where the wheels were removed. In this case it might just be a case of taking it on the chin, buying new wheel nuts, studs and getting them fitted correctly and learning how to check certain parts of your car that are safety critical would be wise. 

[peter-b]

+1 on that. If something doesn't sound/feel right, find out why, or at least find out if its dangerous.

[dyshipfakta]

I had this after new tyres. You got off v lightly mine smashed my front wing. Was caused by over tight studs.

[bob540]

I had this after new tyres. You got off v lightly mine smashed my front wing. Was caused by over tight studs.

Had my wheels aligned after fitting new front suspension a few weeks back, went to adjust the suspension the other day and even with my long breaker bar it was a real struggle to loosen some of the wheel nuts, thought I was going to either snap a stud or destroy the threads.

[666junky]

I had an incident almost this time last year whereby the tiebar nut came undone (the lad used an already worn nyloc and didnt do it up). I had about 3 seconds of banging and knocking and boom that was it. As soon as i started slowing for a roundabout (i was still going about 60) the passenger wheel flew off into the bit where your feet go (flitch?). Luckily it dragged me out of the road, across the carriageway and up onto a curb where the sump scraping stopped me slide any further.
I didnt think it was possible to bend a bottom arm but it twisted and bent, the balljoint exploded and the tiebar was toast.
Unfortunately im now paranoid about driving long distances and its all due to that accident.. you should see my pre journey check lol, its more In depth that an mot!!

[bob540]

I had an incident almost this time last year whereby the tiebar nut came undone (the lad used an already worn nyloc and didnt do it up). I had about 3 seconds of banging and knocking and boom that was it. As soon as i started slowing for a roundabout (i was still going about 60) the passenger wheel flew off into the bit where your feet go (flitch?). Luckily it dragged me out of the road, across the carriageway and up onto a curb where the sump scraping stopped me slide any further.
I didnt think it was possible to bend a bottom arm but it twisted and bent, the balljoint exploded and the tiebar was toast.
Unfortunately im now paranoid about driving long distances and its all due to that accident.. you should see my pre journey check lol, its more In depth that an mot!!

I'm know how you feel with the paranoia, not long after buying my mini the passenger wheel nearly fell off because whatever idiot was last working on the car had removed the CV castle nut and when they put it back on they never fitted a split pin so it just came loose. It really took the fun out of driving for a while, I got over it eventually but I'm still overly paranoid about new noises. I'll often tell my girlfriend to stop talking mid-sentence so I can listen to some random noise, strangely enough she's not too fond of that

[Cooperman]

I had an incident almost this time last year whereby the tiebar nut came undone (the lad used an already worn nyloc and didnt do it up). I had about 3 seconds of banging and knocking and boom that was it. As soon as i started slowing for a roundabout (i was still going about 60) the passenger wheel flew off into the bit where your feet go (flitch?). Luckily it dragged me out of the road, across the carriageway and up onto a curb where the sump scraping stopped me slide any further.
I didnt think it was possible to bend a bottom arm but it twisted and bent, the balljoint exploded and the tiebar was toast.
Unfortunately im now paranoid about driving long distances and its all due to that accident.. you should see my pre journey check lol, its more In depth that an mot!!

It is best to use either a brand new Nylok nut on the front tie bars or, better still, a castellated nut and a split pin. If it was an aircraft a split pin would be mandatory as it is a thread in tension subject to slight movement.

Also for arduous use it is a good idea to weld a triangular piece of 4 mm or 5 mm thick steel onto the tie bar ears to add strength and prevent the ear from bending.

[666junky]

Makes total sense, luckily now due to my micra conversion im not using the traditional type of tiebar. Its now a bolt that is facing downwards with a fresh nyloc underneath. Now if it were ever to fall off the bolt would still be hanging through to hold it in place until i could stop safely