
Best Oil
#16
Posted 03 November 2015 - 08:47 PM
Out of curiosity, have you read Calver's article and if so what did you think of it?
#17
Posted 04 November 2015 - 09:31 AM
ZDDP is a zinc based compound which is particularly important in protecting cam/followers on older pushrod engines, however it's content in many modern oils has been significantly reduced.I don't know what the ZDDP content is.
Out of curiosity, have you read Calver's article and if so what did you think of it?
Edited by Swift_General, 04 November 2015 - 09:33 AM.
#18
Posted 04 November 2015 - 09:41 AM
To cut a long story short, any engine needs a minimum of 700-800 ppm of ZDDP, but zinc may clog the cat over a long mileage so API put a limit on zinc content in oil (this apart from the usual conspiracy theories..).
Oils classed as API SM and newer with a hot viscosity lower than 40 are limited to a max of circa 800 ppm, higher viscosity oils are free from this limit, to allow usage on old engines that need a stronger package (like flat tappet engines as the A series).
#19
Posted 04 November 2015 - 10:03 AM
If you look at comma's x-flow oils, the mineral 15w40 and 20w50 all have 0.11% (1100ppm) Zinc
#20
Posted 04 November 2015 - 11:23 AM
VR1 Racing 20w50. Affordable. High ZDDP (helps protect the gearbox as well as cam followers).
Changed regularly (Every 6K).
You'll have a very happy A-series. This stuff lives in the Mini7 Race engine with fantastic consistent oil pressure, even when pushed to the limits and very hot - 9K rpm ceiling etc.
Edited by fwdracer, 04 November 2015 - 04:23 PM.
#21
Posted 04 November 2015 - 11:52 AM
yes the VR1 is realy good
have used others but the VR1 gives the best oil pressure hot
example Castrol was 60lb at 3000 VR1 is 65
its only about £5 more than Castrol
I change mine aprox every 2500 miles
keeps realy nice clean engine
as far as I am aware VR1 doesn't have as much cleaning products in it
#22
Posted 04 November 2015 - 12:07 PM
#23
Posted 04 November 2015 - 12:42 PM
Oil is the 'lifeblood' of an engine. To try to save a few quid is really false economy.
In all classic cars it is wise to use the very best available with no compromise.
2000 miles is the max distance it is sensible to drive without an oil change.
It may be different if you are running an 'old clonker' of a more modern car, but never with a classic car.
#24
Posted 04 November 2015 - 03:01 PM
Does anyone know the zddp content of eurocarparts own 20w50?
Do they have an "own" 20w50? Triple-Q, Shell, etc
#25
Posted 04 November 2015 - 03:10 PM
Does anyone know the zddp content of eurocarparts own 20w50?
Do they have an "own" 20w50? Triple-Q, Shell, etc
Triple QX
I've used it in my wife's mini. Seems ok but I don't know much about the stuff.
#26
Posted 04 November 2015 - 03:26 PM
Probably something else "branded" if it is ECP's own ..
I've used that in other cars in the semi-synth and synthetic forms and it seems to be ok .. although you never really know if an oil is doing the job until it's too late ...
When my engine is built and used I'll go with recommendation of others on this forum and others I talk to about A-Series engines! Valvoline is one of the ones on my list at the moment (I use their Longlife 10W40 in my Alfa with 205,000 miles on the clock!)
#27
Posted 04 November 2015 - 03:38 PM
i know what ZDDP is and why it's use has been reduced and not outlawed. What I don't know is how many ppm are in Torco 0w20.ZDDP is a zinc based compound which is particularly important in protecting cam/followers on older pushrod engines, however it's content in many modern oils has been significantly reduced.I don't know what the ZDDP content is.
Out of curiosity, have you read Calver's article and if so what did you think of it?
ZDDP content notwithstanding, I'd be very interested to hear some qualified discussion on running such a thin oil with respect to engine temp, oil pressure, and mpg in road cars, as highlighted in Kieth Calver's article.
Edited by fenghuang, 04 November 2015 - 03:45 PM.
#28
Posted 04 November 2015 - 04:02 PM
I'm no qualified engineer but just read KC's article ... http://www.calverst....performance.htm
My only reservation is whether he just used it in winter and whether he left it in for more than the 1200 miles he tested the other oils on. Also one of the main reasons for using 20W50 mineral I understood was the dual engine/gearbox use ... and how a thin oil would affect this?
#29
Posted 04 November 2015 - 04:49 PM
I once used a Shell synthetic in a Cooper 'S' and did a rally. After the event I had to strip the engine, fit new main, big-end and cam bearings, plus rebuild the gearbox as the syncros had all failed.
Synthetic oil - never again. The guy who did my machining called it 'weasel p**s'. He said, and a lot agree with this, that the 65-year-old design of the A-Series engine requires a thick oil, like a 20w50 mineral with high ZDDP levels.
Use other oils if you wish, but it's always 20w50 mineral and preferably Valvoline VR1 for me.
#30
Posted 04 November 2015 - 07:19 PM
I'm usually more than happy to trust Calver's words, but it's always interesting to hear counter arguments.
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