60 replies to this topic

[Spider]

So i am wondering, based on whats been said...does this mean i need a new cv outerjoint? Do i understand this correctly that once the cv shaft has been strectched.. It kind of goes past an elastic limit..? Secondly in what way will the hub wear...other than the bearing racers spinning etc?

 

I think you'd be going extremely hard to stretch the CV. You'll strip the threads in the Nut way before damaging the CV.

 

If the outer cups of the old (or new for that matter) have at any time spun inside the hub, it wears the hub in very quick time and the wheel bearings will never be 'tight'. The Hubs are soft and do wear fairly easy.

 

I think over the past 5 or 6 years, I've only had one hub that's not been worn.

[Earwax]

Just stealing a bit of this thread... i will give it back. i promise

 

I have one CV where the pull through and torque on castle nut, sets the split pin along way outboard- towards the outer edge of the castle nut   the bearings achieve a good fit , but am i right in thinking this is hub wear , getting to the end of service life?

[Ethel]

The hub shouldn't experience any wear as the bearings provide the mating surfaces for the moving bits. The taper hub bearings used to be considered pretty bomb proof too, but I guess they'd  all be pushing the limits of service life if original. When they do wear they lose their surface hardening, that causes them to become pitted and break up - you'd hear and feel failure coming, and you wouldn't be able to just take up any play to cure them. If they are worn enough to bind there's a danger the races will spin on the shaft and in the hub, that should be easy to spot as a lot of heat will be generated.

[Spider]

Just stealing a bit of this thread... i will give it back. i promise

 

I have one CV where the pull through and torque on castle nut, sets the split pin along way outboard- towards the outer edge of the castle nut   the bearings achieve a good fit , but am i right in thinking this is hub wear , getting to the end of service life?

 

No problem with either the hub or bearings from the sound of that. I've seen what you are describing with some of the less expensive CVs and / or when the nut and / or the collar become worn though.

 

<Edited to correct Bearing to CV - Doh! >

Edited by Moke Spider, 12 July 2016 - 10:04 AM.

[Earwax]

cheers.... post hijack over 

[Ann-Wilson]

So taken apart the whole hub...amazing the dust caps on the ball joints...year old..never driven (as still restoring..) absolutely shot...cracked virtually disintegrating) could not see anything amiss. This has got a 10 inch conversion kit from minispares..and i know when i put together i found the disk a couple of mm away from the steering arm...i thought this was close but it spun freely so i just put all back together..i am wondering if the flange was made to the correct dimensions as this pushes up on the bearing from the outside if i am not mistaken? The CV joint from the inside...could the tolerances be out regarding the space between the taper bearings? Am really stuck as to what to do..
I dont mind buying new cv...but i need to know that this will fix the issue...Any helpful hints..experiences greatly appreciated:)

[Dusky]

So taken apart the whole hub...amazing the dust caps on the ball joints...year old..never driven (as still restoring..) absolutely shot...cracked virtually disintegrating) could not see anything amiss. This has got a 10 inch conversion kit from minispares..and i know when i put together i found the disk a couple of mm away from the steering arm...i thought this was close but it spun freely so i just put all back together..i am wondering if the flange was made to the correct dimensions as this pushes up on the bearing from the outside if i am not mistaken? The CV joint from the inside...could the tolerances be out regarding the space between the taper bearings? Am really stuck as to what to do..
I dont mind buying new cv...but i need to know that this will fix the issue...Any helpful hints..experiences greatly appreciated:)

 

 

2 problems: 1: not genuine bearings
2: you dont know the actual torque setting.

For everyone who ever reads this post:

OVERTIGHTENING IS AS BAD AND DANGEROUS AS UNDERTIGHTENING

 

 

Buy, or lend, the right torque wrench for your job, and get genuine bearings.
Yes, the tolerance could certainly be out on non genuine bearings.
My girlfriends godfather works in the aerospace industry and has a machine to measure how 'good' bearings are ( I think it measures 'runout' but not certain on the right translation, its a machine where you spin the bearing on a shaft and there are leds behind, more leds is bad). When you compare somle cheap "chinese" bearings against genuine brand bearings you clearly see a difference. Since I saw this I never save money on bearings anymore.

If the problem still persists ( unlikely if your hub isnt worn) you could try new cv's , but I don't think cv's wear. unless somethign awefull happened.

Edited by Dusky, 12 July 2016 - 01:45 PM.

[Ethel]

Test assemble without the spacer to see if you can get it running properly by just finger tightening the nut. Note the position of the nut relative to the threads on CV and compare to the position when the spacer is used. You can swap parts side to side to help diagnosis, but keep tabs bearings and spacers that belong together.

 

The fit of the discs should  centre them in the caliper.

[Ann-Wilson]

Hi team..so big problem...trying to tighten the main nut on end of cv joint.and...the nut broke! I now need to find a replacement. Does anyone know the specs of this castle nut...like thread, size etc?

[Ethel]

Don't fancy your chances in Germany, apart from a Mini parts supplier,  https://minispares.c...ic/BTA249.aspx, note the metric alternative will be interchangeable as the thread is still UNF.

 

You could pinch the one off the other side if it helps you decide what you need to get it all in one order.

[nicklouse]

Hi team..so big problem...trying to tighten the main nut on end of cv joint.and...the nut broke! I now need to find a replacement. Does anyone know the specs of this castle nut...like thread, size etc?

 

german mini place http://www.limora.co...ut-1-86573.html

 

if urgent.

 

what part DE are you in as I might have a spare kicking about.

 

german Mini forum http://mini-forum.de/ will help in English.

 

and an event that is not to be missed.

http://mini-forum.de...-bis-21-08-2016

[Ann-Wilson]

Live in dusseldorf. But am building in poland...think i am going to have to order...the worry is why this happened.i am still unsure as to the cause of the bearings pulling up...am thinking i need to go new wheel bearings again...no useage but try timkin this time...?

[Ann-Wilson]

Have been offered for someone to make me the nut...apparently i am told to shave o.1 mm off the distance spacer ring in middle...Any thoughts? Or should i just buy new timkin bearing set plus nut from minispares, wait a week for postage and hope it works?

[Spider]

Have been offered for someone to make me the nut...apparently i am told to shave o.1 mm off the distance spacer ring in middle...Any thoughts?

 

This is the Note that's included with the Timken sets

 

 

So, that's some of the lengths they go to to be sure the Bearings are the correct fit.

 

The other thing they do and this highlights the above is every set is measured and matched (sorry it's not the best photo);-

 

 

You should be able to just make out the hand engraved numbers on the spacer and inner cone of the bearing. Each Bearing Set is measured and matched together. Even the cups and cones within a set should not be swapped around and when you buy them, they are (or should be) tied together to keep the assembly in the correct order.

 

I do have a method of measuring the bearing cups when assembling so you can see if there's an issue with the hub (I also check new hubs as well as used). I'm actually in the middle of updating my photos for doing this. Give me a day or so and I'll post them up.

[Ann-Wilson]

Cool thanks for the advice.