60 replies to this topic

[Ann-Wilson]

This was a new hub...from minispares...! Do you really think they would stock inferior parts?

[tiger99]

Yes!

[Spider]

Incidently, i clamped the bearing together in the hub with long large bolt with distance spacer ring in between..tight with air pistol...still movement...which indicates possibly incorrect width of spacer???? Or...?

 

It's quite likely the CV Collar being closed up too much to start with.

 

The CV Collar, is the Tapered Washer that has the split in it that's directly under the Nut. If this is closed up (and I've had them new like this), it won't locate properly on to the CV. When this happens, you can tighten the Nut until you're blue in the face and then some, but the Bearing Assy will still be loose on the shaft of the CV.

 

While it's in bits, trial fit the Collar on to the CV. There's a plain section at the end of the Thread, just before where it steps up to the splining. That's what the Collar has to sit on. As it is split and it fits in to a taper in the flange, it can close up and bite on to the CV before it gets to this plain section.

 

Also, feel the taper of the CV Collar and the taper of the Drive Flange. If you can feel any sharp 'bits' on the small end of the Collar and the Taper in the Drive Flange then it's likely they are worn. It doesn't take much! And it's all very fine detail.

 

Not any of the spares manufacturer's fault, but a crap design from day 1 in my opinion.

 

I've just done a couple of Hubs over the past couple of days. I have taken photos and will try to get around to a write up shortly.

 

<Edit: No help here but this is one area where the Drum Brake set up is so much better >

Edited by Moke Spider, 16 July 2016 - 12:46 AM.

[tiger99]

I agree that the drum brake hub bearing design was better.

It seems to me that as there are now continual problems with Mini hubs (such problems were rare in the 1960s and 80s), it may be time for a re-think such as machining the hub to take a modern integrated bearing with circlips. It might mean a new hub casting, but please not ali. It needs to have a good fatigue life, even if subjected to abuse. Anyway, ali has problems with thermal expansion which causes bearings to loosen and also affects the preload, so only suitable for short duration competition rather than high mileage road use. A welded steel fabrication may be possible.

[Spider]

It seems to me that as there are now continual problems with Mini hubs (such problems were rare in the 1960s and 80s), it may be time for a re-think such as machining the hub to take a modern integrated bearing with circlips. It might mean a new hub casting, but please not all.

 

Already well on to that, along with a reset ball joint angle and better ball joints.

[Spider]

 

I do have a method of measuring the bearing cups when assembling so you can see if there's an issue with the hub (I also check new hubs as well as used). I'm actually in the middle of updating my photos for doing this. Give me a day or so and I'll post them up.

 

 

http://www.theminifo...wheel-bearings/

[tiger99]

I look forward to seeing these developments! That sort of thing should help to keep the Mini going for another 50 years...

[Ann-Wilson]

So got the package...new cv, new timkin bearings...( i think, hope.) they did not come with grease...so any thoughts on grease.
Any particular advice? Going to put all back together tomorrow...hopefully this issue will now be sorted:)

[Ann-Wilson]

I looked at the washer...think it needs spreading as did not slide on easily!

[tiger99]

Use a lithium based grease. LM is ok and has never caused me trouble but you can get specific hub bearing greases now which may be slightly better (and much more expensive). The CV of course has its specific grease, neither graphite nor moly as have been wrongly stated here in the past, but Molybentone, a sticky combination of molybdenum disulphide and Bentonite. A sachet of CV joint grease for any modern car will do the job if the original is not available.

Edited by tiger99, 20 July 2016 - 03:56 PM.

[Spider]

Seems you might be on to something in regards to the Collar.

 

Use a lithium based grease. LM is ok and has never caused me trouble but you can get specific hub bearing greases now which may be slightly better (and much more expensive). The CV of course has its specific grease, neither graphite nor moly as have been wrongly stated here in the past, but Molybentone, a sticky combination of molybdenum disulphide and Bentonite. A sachet of CV joint grease for any modern car will do the job if the original is not available.

 

I agree with this. For many years I was using Castrol HTB Grease, but IMO, it's not what it used to be.

 

I've recently swung over to Timken's own Wheel bearing Grease. A Friend has been using it for a while and he's had no trouble from it.

 

[Ann-Wilson]

Could not get hold of this... So have purchased some bearing grease....so update...
i put new cv joint on today..looks great in comparison:-).
Took the old, new bearings out of the hub replaced with timkin...this gave me a chance to look more carefully at the distance spacer....oh my god.....what a difference between timkin and that which was in there....ok now remember these bearings were new 2 years ago...fitted by myself...0 km as i have not got the car running yet.. So no wear etc...but completely different quality of finish...i had of course no idea what they were supposed to look like as this is my first restoration and i had never seen bearings etc before so just followed instructions.

Anyway the spacer was about 0.5 mm wider, the finish looked as if it had been cast..where as the timikin version had been lathed...this was the problem...i am not completly out of the creek..but i should be able to finally drive my mini after 9 years...so just wanted to say a massive cheers for all your help...i learnt alot this last two weeks.. ill never buy anything other than original components from now on...:)

[MRA]

DSC_0127 zoom1.jpg

DSC_0130 zoom2.jpg

a picture of the cv

 

That most certainly is the ridge I was talking about.
 

[MRA]

If the spacer came with a pair of genuine Timken bearings it is very unlikely to be wrong. I would suspect the machined ridge in the hub which locates the outer races.

 

If the bearing cup/s have spun in the hub then throw it away as it will just cost you loads of money to keep installing new bearings when the bearings are not at fault.

[MRA]

When fitting hubs, bearings, CV's and drive flange or individual parts the use of a flat washer to initially pull the assembly together is recommended.

 

http://www.minispare...sic/TOOL21.aspx