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Removing Steering Column


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#1 ashparry_

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Posted 02 October 2016 - 06:15 PM

I'm wanting to remove my steering column to get to behind my pedals to disconnect the pin from the brake pedal to the cylinder. How do I go about this?

 

Thanks



#2 tiger99

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Posted 02 October 2016 - 07:28 PM

You do not need to remove the steering column to do that.

#3 59 Speed

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Posted 02 October 2016 - 07:33 PM

As far as I know you don't need to remove the column.

It's fiddly, but a bit of patience and you'll get it off.

Put a week aside for putting it back on though ;)

Edited by Smackfiend, 02 October 2016 - 07:33 PM.


#4 sledgehammer

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Posted 02 October 2016 - 08:04 PM

take the seat out ,

 

a get a nice cushion to get comfy

 

& a good light

 

makes life easier 



#5 Spider

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Posted 02 October 2016 - 08:06 PM

While you don't need to remove the column, I do so these days, it does give better access and visibility of a horrid job.

 

There'll be 2 or 3 electrical plugs, unplug those for each other.

At the base of the Column, there's a small nut & bolt, remove that.

Where the column passes the dash rail, there's a clamp around the column with a bolt in there. It will be a 'headless bolt' and is (supposedly) part of a security measure. 80% of the time, there's just enough of the head on there to be able to get a pair of vice grips on to it. There is a 'nut' on the other side, but it's indexed and can't be turned. The Bolt is on the Right Hand side.



#6 AlexMozza

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Posted 02 October 2016 - 08:32 PM

As a tip, when I put it back together I use an R clip on the pins, makes any future removal much quicker.

#7 A-Cell

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Posted 03 October 2016 - 08:02 AM

Do NOT use an R-pin to secure the brake pedal clevis pin. Always use a correctly secured clevis pin. Rover fitted them for a short time in 1990 and there were some brake failures as a result of the R-pin being pushed out. A recall was organised and a Service Bulletin issued to revert to original split pin. The tolerance build up can result in the pin catching on the body and being pushed out. In effect it is hit and miss whether it occurs. Therefore the SAFEST option is to use a standard split pin.

#8 Spider

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Posted 03 October 2016 - 08:53 AM

They used R Clips on our Local Production from the early 60's right to the end of production in 1981. Our P/N was HYH1019. These are fine, however, some non-original types I've been sold are a little bigger / longer in length and can pop out as a result. The genuine pins were never a problem.

 

I've bough some from Somerfords in the past and had no issues with them. I recall this has come up a few times in various threads now.



#9 AlexMozza

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Posted 03 October 2016 - 09:18 AM

Do NOT use an R-pin to secure the brake pedal clevis pin. Always use a correctly secured clevis pin. Rover fitted them for a short time in 1990 and there were some brake failures as a result of the R-pin being pushed out. A recall was organised and a Service Bulletin issued to revert to original split pin. The tolerance build up can result in the pin catching on the body and being pushed out. In effect it is hit and miss whether it occurs. Therefore the SAFEST option is to use a standard split pin.


The only way an R clip can come out is either the wrong size, or incorrectly fitted.
They were fitted as standard in some markets.

#10 sledgehammer

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Posted 03 October 2016 - 09:38 AM

Do NOT use an R-pin to secure the brake pedal clevis pin. Always use a correctly secured clevis pin. Rover fitted them for a short time in 1990 and there were some brake failures as a result of the R-pin being pushed out. A recall was organised and a Service Bulletin issued to revert to original split pin. The tolerance build up can result in the pin catching on the body and being pushed out. In effect it is hit and miss whether it occurs. Therefore the SAFEST option is to use a standard split pin.

 

+1 on this

 

on the clutch is fine , the clutch will just drop to the floor - but not on brake

 

they do come loose , if you are lucky they fall onto carpet where they can be seen

 

I thought the recall was earlier ? 

 

I suspect the Australian ones were stiffer / slightly sharper profile ? , if they weren't a problem

 

MokeSpider have you got a link for the  HYH1019. can't find them on google ?


Edited by sledgehammer, 03 October 2016 - 11:28 AM.


#11 AlexMozza

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Posted 03 October 2016 - 06:51 PM


Do NOT use an R-pin to secure the brake pedal clevis pin. Always use a correctly secured clevis pin. Rover fitted them for a short time in 1990 and there were some brake failures as a result of the R-pin being pushed out. A recall was organised and a Service Bulletin issued to revert to original split pin. The tolerance build up can result in the pin catching on the body and being pushed out. In effect it is hit and miss whether it occurs. Therefore the SAFEST option is to use a standard split pin.

 
+1 on this
 
on the clutch is fine , the clutch will just drop to the floor - but not on brake
 
they do come loose , if you are lucky they fall onto carpet where they can be seen
 
I thought the recall was earlier ? 
 
I suspect the Australian ones were stiffer / slightly sharper profile ? , if they weren't a problem
 
MokeSpider have you got a link for the  HYH1019. can't find them on google ?

We sell the correct ones at Somerford.
Part number Rclip01

#12 A-Cell

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Posted 03 October 2016 - 07:19 PM

Do NOT use an R-pin to secure the brake pedal clevis pin. Always use a correctly secured clevis pin. Rover fitted them for a short time in 1990 and there were some brake failures as a result of the R-pin being pushed out. A recall was organised and a Service Bulletin issued to revert to original split pin. The tolerance build up can result in the pin catching on the body and being pushed out. In effect it is hit and miss whether it occurs. Therefore the SAFEST option is to use a standard split pin.


The only way an R clip can come out is either the wrong size, or incorrectly fitted.
They were fitted as standard in some markets.

...or be pushed out which was identified as the root cause of this happening to minis built in Longbridge in 1980. The build up of tolerances in production resulted in the r-clip contacting the bodywork disengaging the r-clip and then it worked its way out.

Sledgehammer , yes the problem was identified in 1980 so was earlier. Some cars leaving the line suffered brake failure due to this, so the Service bulletin was issued, production reverted to split pin. I was project engineer for Small car development when this occurred.

As the tools got older and older, assembly problems and service problems increased over the life of the mini.

As this item is clearly Safety Critical, So I re-iterate my Safety warning. A correctly fitted appropriate diameter split pin is more secure.

#13 tiger99

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Posted 03 October 2016 - 09:08 PM

Well, there is good inside information! Stuff like that matters very much. We should learn from history.

But I have a question. Should there be a plain washer behind the split pin? There was on one of my Minis but not all. It would seem to be good engineering practice as it helps protect the somewhat minimal split pin from wear. But it depends on their being enough length in the pin from its head to the drilling, otherwise there will be no room for it. And it is another thing to drop in the worst place in a Mini.

I would actually be happy with a well-fitting R clip that was short enough to be unable to foul anything. With a washer of course, and after lots of pedal operations while watching it with a TV camera while operating the pedal. I would not just fit it blind and hope for the best.

#14 WiredbyWilson

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Posted 03 October 2016 - 09:18 PM

Yes there is room for a flat washer. I've just replaced my pins and clips and always fit washers to ensure a snug fit, maybe even a dob of grease to ward off wear!

#15 GuamMini

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Posted 08 October 2016 - 04:39 AM

Does the bolt at the end of the column just slide in or does it have to be hammered to go in?




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