28 replies to this topic

[GraemeC]

I'd guess at these guys:

http://www.bernardoecenarro.com/en/

 

But never used their products 

Edited by GraemeC, 10 November 2016 - 10:41 AM.

[MacGyver]

It says 2K on the tin, how long does it last one the two parts are mixed together ?

Depends on the make, this one lasts up to a month TOPS. Usually 7-10 days depending on amount left in it.
Translation is a bit odd, I agree.
Ps: if you have guns, you can get it unmixed for a lot cheaper. Spray can't are a lor more expensive but practical if you don't need a lot or you don't have a compressor...

Ps: à friend of mine sell's the BESA products (by choice) and is very fond of them. Haven't tried them yet but will do. 😀

Edited by MacGyver, 10 November 2016 - 11:42 AM.

[pete l]

I found a shop here thats sells auto paint, went in an enquired, he had no epoxy primer in stock for cars but offered me some epoxy industriel primer, he said it's the same but a bit thiner and a lot cheaper.

 

Any idea what this could be ? he even said he could colour it for me, any shade of RAL I wanted.

 

3 litres of it, 1 litre of hardener and 5 litres of thinners for 92 euros, which is about £65

 

I'm tempted to try it for the floor and all the underneath parts of the car.

 

Any opinions ?

[Compdoc]

I thought of trying Jotun. You get 5l for £60 and they paint ships and oil rigs with it apparently.

http://www.ebay.co.u...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

[tiger99]

In view of the above, are we being conned into buying special automotive grade products when there are adequate and cheaper industrial products? Or do you really need the automotive grade stuff to get the necessary surface finish?

[pete l]

I went and bought it, having never used epoxy primer before, I am unable to compare. I've only used it with a brush. It reminds me of a runnier araldite, it's very sticky and starts to dry quite quick but the stays tacky for a day. It's been on 2 days now and it's still not cured, I can easily mark it with my finger nail.

[bluedragon]

If the epoxy primer is designed to be topcoated, a somewhat soft surface is not necessarily a problem. Many automotive epoxies have a recoat time. During this period, they aren't fully cured, because the intention is that they are topcoated with something else - paint, filler-primer, or body filler. Then the epoxy will chemically bond to the upper substrate, really locking the two tight once it does cure. That's one of the properties that make epoxies great. 

 

Outside the curing window, the epoxy will harden, and then usually the directions are to scuff the epoxy layer, apply another coat of epoxy, then again apply your intended product over the top within the new recoat period to gain the chemical locking benefit.

 

The instructions for the epoxy should describe this, if applicable. If not, it wouldn't be what I would use for an automotive application (at least on a visible surface.) If it's thinner in consistency, it probably doesn't have much in the way of filling qualities for imperfections (while epoxy is not intended to be a leveling filler per se, automotive epoxy is quite heavy and thick to fill sanding scratches and scuffed areas well.) This is probably unimportant for an industrial application.

 

The lower price may be misleading, since you could always take the automotive grade epoxy and thin it down to match the consistency of the thinner industrial primer. It may be that the cost of the thinned automotive product (including the price of the reducer) may be close to or the same as the industrial product.

 

 

Dave

[mini-geek]

I went and bought it, having never used epoxy primer before, I am unable to compare. I've only used it with a brush. It reminds me of a runnier araldite, it's very sticky and starts to dry quite quick but the stays tacky for a day. It's been on 2 days now and it's still not cured, I can easily mark it with my finger nail.

Did you use the hardener?

[Daz1968]

I used some high build epoxy today, after approx 3 hours was fully cured and ok to sand and it's not exactly warm at the moment.

Previous I have used epoxy mastic, this takes longer to harden. In fact think it took a few days.

[tiger99]

Why do they call it mastic? It doesn't have any of the properties of a normal mastic, except hopefully water resistance. It it is spread by brush or spray it really is a paint. Nothing wrong with that, but using wrong terminology is seriously misleading and results in confusion sooner or later. And, yes I know it is the manufacturers to blame, not anyone here. They are doing themselves no favours whatsoever, as people like me would pass by their products in our search for a suitable coating. We would only notice mastic if we were looking for a joint sealant.

[pete l]

Yes I did mix the hardener with it. It is almost rock hard now.

 

I am only trying it out on the underside of the floor to see how it goes, but it looks promising.

[pete l]

I would like to know the difference name wise, primer, mastic etc. Is it all the same stuff ?

[KaneH]

Why do they call it mastic? It doesn't have any of the properties of a normal mastic, except hopefully water resistance. It it is spread by brush or spray it really is a paint. Nothing wrong with that, but using wrong terminology is seriously misleading and results in confusion sooner or later. And, yes I know it is the manufacturers to blame, not anyone here. They are doing themselves no favours whatsoever, as people like me would pass by their products in our search for a suitable coating. We would only notice mastic if we were looking for a joint sealant.

The mastic refers to the high solid contents, i.e. natural mastic resins, found in some epoxy paint systems. Mastic resin is also used in varnishes etc. so I'd imagine that common mastic sealants contain similar products and hence the name.

So it is not the wrong terminology, just that reference is made more commonly to general products.

[tiger99]

Thank you for that very interesting information.