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Wheel Stud Spinning Ffs!


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#1 paulrockliffe

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Posted 27 November 2016 - 03:06 PM

Trying to remove the wheel, three nuts off, the last one is spinning in the hub.

 

What are my options?

 

Is there a spline in there that's now wrecked?

 

Does the spline do anything once the nuts's done up or is having the back of the stud tack-welded an option?

 

Fortunately I was able to do the job I was trying to do with the wheel on, but obviously I can't get the wheel fitted properly without being able to tighten that last stud.  

 

Thanks!



#2 Swift_General

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Posted 27 November 2016 - 03:26 PM

I would be removing the nut not tightening it as is as you don't know what the problem it. Tack welding may be worth a try (to remove the nut only - not as a way to tighten it). Otherwise I have removed a locking wheel nut before (without the key) using a small die grinder. However you do it I would be replacing all the studs and disc/drive flange (depending on your set up) as you don't know what caused the issue in the first place.

Edited by Swift_General, 27 November 2016 - 03:31 PM.


#3 sonikk4

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Posted 27 November 2016 - 05:00 PM

Have you got the cap still on, the ones that look like a nut. Worth a punt??

Not the first time this has caught somebody out.

#4 paulrockliffe

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Posted 27 November 2016 - 05:31 PM

No, I can feel the stud spinning when I put my finger on the back of the flange.

What else could the problem be other than a striped spline caused by the nut being seized to the stud stronger than the spine?

I can't get a grinder to anything, so it would be a weld job to get the nut off, unless I can tap the stud back fast enough to get some grips on it.

#5 sonikk4

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Posted 27 November 2016 - 05:57 PM

I would if possible add a tack weld to the back then whip the nut off and bin the stud. Hopefully it's the splines on the stud that are shot and no damage to the hub.

#6 paulrockliffe

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Posted 27 November 2016 - 06:46 PM

I do have a welder, never used it but I might give it a go.  Or there's a garage just round the corner that'll be able to sort it.



#7 wile e coyote

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Posted 27 November 2016 - 07:01 PM

Would be worth having a close look at your other studs when you've sorted this... hopefully just the one dud.... but the odd thick git fitter with a windy gun can have scary results....



#8 paulrockliffe

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Posted 27 November 2016 - 08:40 PM

The rest were fine to remove, all about the same amount of effort needed and not a huge amount of force on a 2ft bar, so hopefully they're OK.  One nut was actually quite loose though!

 

What's the actual issue with them if the splines are damaged?  I'm not questioning what you're saying, but in my head once the nuts are done up tight the splines aren't doing anything.

 

Had a look at welding the stud just now, looks like a tricky job to get a rod in without welding the rim or the disk by mistake.  Not sure I could do it with a welding mask on!  Really annoying as everything else went completely to plan today, no seized bolts or issues with anything doing my various jobs while the F1 was on.



#9 Alex_B

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Posted 27 November 2016 - 09:05 PM

have you tried an impact gun to buzz off the nut? You may find it allows you to remove the nut without spinning the stud. But I would replace all your studs after this and inspect the drive flange where the current stud is spinning for damage when replacing to save the issue returning. 



#10 mini13

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Posted 27 November 2016 - 09:24 PM

With just one nut on you should able to tug the wheel and snap the stud due to bending it.

Failing that try drilling the stud, it should be to hard, but if it's stripped the spline then maybe it's soft...

#11 nicklouse

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Posted 27 November 2016 - 09:30 PM

Two bolts. And a long sleeve nut. Cut length of bolt so the assembled minimum length is just less than the disc to stud length. Then wind out to press stud home which might allow you to get the nut off.

Loads of plus gas first.

It is rather dependant on the disc set up.

#12 paulrockliffe

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Posted 28 November 2016 - 08:10 AM

Like a little jack, good thinking.  I'll have a look on the other side to see whether I can get something in the space, it was pretty tight on my finger, so might be tricky!



#13 tiger99

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Posted 28 November 2016 - 01:04 PM

Don't try the utterly stupid suggestion above of using the wheel as a lever to break the stud. For a start, the stud is 3/8" grade 8.8 or maybe 10.9, which are ductile and will bend rather than break. Also, the wheel will be damaged around the nut seating and will be scrap. It may even fail completely, with a chunk around the hole detatching, if alloy.

#14 paulrockliffe

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Posted 28 November 2016 - 01:28 PM

I wasn't going to do that don't worry.  For all those reasons, but because there are three studs still sticking into the rim bolt holes, the wheel will only come past those if you pull it forwards, trying to twist it off would need those studs bending too.



#15 nicklouse

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Posted 28 November 2016 - 01:34 PM

what disc set up is it? S or later or.....






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