34 replies to this topic

[paulrockliffe]

I think they're Mini Sport calipers on whatever discs fit under 10" wheels, beyond that I'll need to post some pictures or take some measurements.

 

On your mini-jack idea, I wonder if I can't get that in whether some sort of wedge could be tapped in instead to jam the stud.

[Cooperman]

A small 'blob' of weld on the head of the stud will be the only sure way to undo the wheel nut. You won't even need a new stud if you do that.

[carbon]

I had this same problem with a spinning stud on front wheel of a 1275GT which had been laid up for 20 years.

 

Here's what worked for me:

- get a very tight fitting socket or wheelbrace onto the wheelnut

- move end of wheelbrace up and down so you're bending the stud

- keep going

- eventually stud breaks off just behind the wheelnut

 

Once I got the right fitting socket took about a minute to break the stud, quite surprised how easy this was. And no damage to wheel or the drive flange.

[tiger99]

I think you will save a lit of time by just drilling the stud. Hold the nut with a spanner. There is every chance of saving even more time than you expect by the drilling causing the stud to spin and unscrew backwards from the nut, but even if it doesn't you will still get it apart.

A small pilot drill, say 3mm, followed by 3/8" or 10mm to destroy the stud utterly should do. You may want maybe 6mm in between, if the drilling is a bit tough.

Have fun. The end result is always very satisfying.

[paulrockliffe]

Pics of the setup, measured the discs at about 8", so 7.9".

 

DSC_0784 by Paul Rockliffe, on Flickr

 

DSC_0783 by Paul Rockliffe, on Flickr

 

DSC_0785 by Paul Rockliffe, on Flickr

 

There's a screw missing from this one too FFS!  Does anyone know exactly what the screw is so I find the right replacement?

 

Does anyone know exactly what the brakes are while I'm here?

 

Too cold and late outside to mess around with it tonight.

[Swift_General]

They appear to be standard Cooper 'S' set up (7.5"). Part number for the screw is SF604051.

[wile e coyote]

Look like regular S  7½" discs....

 

Screw is...

http://minispares.co.../classic/flange screw.aspx|Back to search

 

But not exactly an issue to be missing one  - nothing will fall to bits without it..... unless neat freakedness at play  - in which case it's annoying!!!

 

Edit - beaten to it!

Edited by wile e coyote, 28 November 2016 - 09:06 PM.

[nicklouse]

Things to consider.

You can remove the wheel and disc Assy in one.

Yes you will need to disconnect the brake hose from the subframe. Split pin out. Hub nut off. Two Caliper bolts. Ball joints and track rod end.

Then you can knock the "good" studs through this will allow a bit more wiggle room for the wheel. Which can give you more room to get in there to get the stud "held" by whatever means you chose.

[paulrockliffe]

Thanks, I'll have a look at it again when I get the chance.  All the parts are cheap so I can be a bit more aggressive if necessary.

[minidaves]

sometimes this one works and try undoing the wheel on the floor so the load of the car against the stud hopefully means it comes undone, just dont totally remove the jack as in leave it just touching the subframe, as if the wheel twists your car could drop so the jack ends up acting a stand.

[paulrockliffe]

That's a good idea, i did loosen the nuts off with the wheels on the ground and the nut is loose I think, it's just gone tight on the thread again I think.  Thing is the car is on stands and I need to to stay there for a while, so I'll have to wait to try that.  I suppose it makes sense to do all the jobs I had planned and then sort this anyway.

[paulrockliffe]

Had chance to have a go at this today, cut a 50mm bit of threaded rod, screwed a threaded bar connector over it, two nuts jammed up together to lock them on.  Slid it in, pliers and a spanner in - very tight!  Got the 'jack' as tight as I could manage and gave it a go.....

 

It worked! 

 

Knocked out the stud, the splines are damaged but still visible on the stud, there's no evidence of any splines on the disc, so they're obviously worn completely!  New disc and studs to order....

 

The 'jack' looked like this in action:

 

DSC_0791 by Paul Rockliffe, on Flickr

 

Thanks for all your help and ideas!

[gazza82]

The stud needs splines on the hub aren't they, not disc ... double-check. If the splines are on the stud you may need a new hub!

Edited by gazza82, 03 December 2016 - 05:02 PM.

[mini13]

The studs are pressed into the disc on the S setup.

[Dusky]

The stud needs splines on the hub aren't they, not disc ... double-check. If the splines are on the stud you may need a new hub!

Drive flange, hub is bit where the ball joints are on etc :)