
Rear Bearing Castle Nut Pin Problem
#1
Posted 26 February 2017 - 07:42 PM
So to recap ive changed the bearings dust seal etc then pushed the hub onto the radius arm . Then the thick washer then the castle nut. Absolutly baffeled as to why its way past the hole. Was there ment to be a washer on the radius arm before i put the hub or on or something ? Everyone on the forums is on about torques and not being able to get the pin in and not tight enough and it seems like mine is too far in. There no resistance or rubbing. And i even tried the drum brake on to see if it was too far in and would rub on the back plate and that didnt seem the case. Only slight ressistance from the brake shoes nothing else.. thought maybe spindle on the radius arm had been pulled out abit or something. should i put another washer on or have i missed something out? Im yet to try the other side to see if there was any diffenrence. (this is a project and just rebuilding so no worry about being on the road just yet)
Any help would be much appriciated thanks
#2
Posted 26 February 2017 - 08:04 PM
As per the Haynes. Tighter to X torque and then continue till next slot in nut.
#3
Posted 26 February 2017 - 08:07 PM
#4
Posted 26 February 2017 - 08:08 PM
#5
Posted 26 February 2017 - 08:14 PM
#6
Posted 26 February 2017 - 08:15 PM
Hi,
Are you using the original castellated nut or was the nut supplied with the new bearings? If the bearings and hub fit along with the brake drum and you have the thick washer fitted under the castellated nut and it's going past the hole in the end of the stub axle, it sounds as though the nut is wrong.
Cheers, Steve.
#7
Posted 26 February 2017 - 08:30 PM
The only spacer between the bearings is the hub itself. This is rear drums on 1990 radius arms. No spacer was in there before and the bearings are straight swap unless im mistaken? No other washers spacers in packs........ So the castle nut is too far on the stud.... If i put the pin in its will do nothing as the nut is past the hole completly. yes i didnt think maybe it was the castle nut. Its the orginal castle nuts. The bearings didnt come with one from what i remember but i will check packets/boxes in the morning.
I found a photo like it online. But this photo is of the front hub but same has happened. https://goo.gl/images/uymH7X
#8
Posted 26 February 2017 - 10:53 PM
#9
Posted 26 February 2017 - 11:28 PM
Yes washer before the castle nut is on. Its asif it needs the same size spacer again?
The only spacer between the bearings is the hub itself. This is rear drums on 1990 radius arms. No spacer was in there before and the bearings are straight swap unless im mistaken? No other washers spacers in packs........ So the castle nut is too far on the stud.... If i put the pin in its will do nothing as the nut is past the hole completly. yes i didnt think maybe it was the castle nut. Its the orginal castle nuts. The bearings didnt come with one from what i remember but i will check packets/boxes in the morning.
I found a photo like it online. But this photo is of the front hub but same has happened. https://goo.gl/images/uymH7X
So are these Timkens or not? If they are you should have a matched spacer.
I guess you have a Haynes manual? All shown in there.
Ps some cheap poor quality taper roller sets don't have a spacer but have shoulders on the inner races. Normally poor fit and tolerance.
#10
Posted 26 February 2017 - 11:29 PM
#11
Posted 27 February 2017 - 08:15 AM
I've had a few sets of bearings like this and there wasn't any obvious fault. I just fitted a second washer on top of the first.
#12
Posted 27 February 2017 - 08:52 AM
Im talking about the rear hub on the radius arm not the front.
Ive fitted timkens which have not come with a spacer. I have taken out the original bearings and races and replaced them with new. There was no spacer and why would i put one in between when the races sit agains the hubs spacer thats in between that is part of the hub. Theres no room for a spacer in between. Ive taken them apart one at a time a replaced the bits like for like just from roller to tapered. In the haynes manual is shows a spacer but if you read carefully it also states that the bearing may be spaces already.
#13
Posted 27 February 2017 - 10:33 AM
Edited by Swift_General, 27 February 2017 - 10:35 AM.
#14
Posted 27 February 2017 - 11:01 AM
#15
Posted 27 February 2017 - 11:18 AM
You must have something to keeping the inner races apart. But, even without a spacer, they should bind on the outer races with the nut in almost the same place. See what's between the outer races in the hub casting.
To risk insulting your intelligence, are the races in the right way round, outers sandwiched between inners?
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