39 replies to this topic

[tiger99]

Were the Timkens supplied loose or as a boxed set? They should ONLY be as a boxed set, including spacer, as these are selected during manufacture to provide correct clearance. A loose pair is of no use to anyone. Also please note that each inner should be kept with its own outer ring.

If someone is supplying Timkens loose, please let us know who, so we can avoid that supplier. Also, please advise Timken via their web site as what you have may be Chinese counterfeits and they need to know about them. This is a very serious problem and the bearing manufacturers are reliant on the likes of us to help catch the criminal counterfeiters.

As pointed out above, if you have torqued the nut up without the spacer, the bearings are now scrap. But the nut would not go so very much tighter that the castellations would not engage the split pin. The fact that it does happen is another probable indication of counterfeit parts.

Sorry but it looks that you will need new full bearing sets from a reputable supplier.

[Austinminimark]

No spacer came with anything and the bearing are the same dimensions as the ones that came out and there was no spacers in there either. 😅😂 its getting rather confusing. Ive measured everything to see if anything is different.

[cian]

All appears correct from the pics! Is that a new castle nut?

[Ethel]

It does like yours may have the spacer built in.

[GraemeC]

Do both sides have the same problem?

How tight were the old outer races in the hubs?

How thick is the washer under the hub nut?

[Mini-Hazel-Nut]

I`m reading this as I have just encountered a similar problem with my re-manufactured assemblies. Having said that I`ve got to take you all to task I`m afraid. The nut you are all talking about is a "slotted" nut. A castle nut has the castellations on top of the nut seemingly separately from the nut itself. Also there is no thread in the castellated part, that is there solely for the split pin. 

[Austinminimark]

Right no my bearings have the built in washer im literally on my way to the unit now and going to take measured photos of everything. Cause everything i google looks either nothing like my bearing or are for the front. Its fustrating but i can understand im trying to describe something without someone seeing. Bare with me some more photos will be up shortly.

[GraemeC]

I`m reading this as I have just encountered a similar problem with my re-manufactured assemblies. Having said that I`ve got to take you all to task I`m afraid. The nut you are all talking about is a "slotted" nut. A castle nut has the castellations on top of the nut seemingly separately from the nut itself. Also there is no thread in the castellated part, that is there solely for the split pin. 
 

 
Beg to differ!  
 
I'll agree there is a difference, but a castle nut is fully threaded.  However the castelations are normally at a reduced diameter to the main hex of the nut to allow the locking device to not protrude, whereas a slotted nut is simply a nut with cross slots.
 
http://www.fastenerd...s-4-din935.html

Edited by GraemeC, 27 February 2017 - 07:43 PM.

[Spider]

The spacers are there, there's half a spacer built in to each inner race of the bearings, so there's no separate spacer.

 

Just check the Big C Clip on the back of the Stub Axle isn't being 'sucked' in to the Radius Arm, if that's all OK, then as I suggested previously, just put another washer under the Nut. I think you're reading WAY too much in to all this.

[Austinminimark]

Right
I have cancelled out the bearings and their races.
I have one timken bearing and one not. Ive checked all spacing/tollerances on new bearing and old. Ive even had the races in and out to make sure they are all correct. Ive even swapped hubs and swapped sides ive tried both bearings in both and you cant mix up the races otherwise they dont work they have slightly different taper between timken and other make.
So it comes down to this.... its got to be something to do with the nut and washer im putting on ? or washers as you have pointed out maybe it just needs another washer. Going to add some photos after this to see if its not just me goong mad and see if you guys spot anything because photos speak better than words...
thanks alot guys 👍



BUT.. when you nip it up or tighten it (not hard) i have not torqued yet.. to me doesnt even seem anywhere near the bearings become tough to turn.. wont spin freely. Have to turn it with force.....NOW... theres only one thing that maybe cause any difference.. and that is the dust washer on the back. Im of the opinion it shoul be flat facing out when the hub is off . But according to haynes on a tapered it should be the otherway round? To me that doesnt seem right.. but would it cause it to drag that much? I appriciate it could be because its new and tight. Before i put everything back on for the last time because its driving me insane.

[Austinminimark]

[Austinminimark]

[neal]

This is an easy one to answer as I have had a similar problem.

I bought a cheaper alternative wheel bearing set for the rear hubs on my mini, the seller however was very clear in the advertisement on their website that these were a budget alternative to 'Timken bearings' so I took a chance, BIG MISTAKE!!!

I too had the same problems with regard to them binding at the prescribed torque setting as stated in the Haynes manual, so I removed them, checked and measured to find that the built in spacer was in fact too short in length causing them to bind, therefore after torqueing now scrap! We are talking a couple thousands of an inch out will cause you endless problems.

So, I chose to go the right way about it and bought the real deal (Timken's) at a fair price. Needless to say that the difference is Night & Day on fit and finish.

What I have noticed is that your bearings have 'FHBC KOR NP880810' which in fact are exactly the same etched details on the back of my cheapo bearings, but according to your pictures you have a 'Timken' leaflet with them. It appears that you have been had my friend if these bearings and that leaflet came together, If you were to look at a set of real Timken bearings, the quality is truly a work of art and you will understand where your money has gone. I can tell you that the inner race and outer races on Timken bearings are matched and are etched by hand with an engraver with the sizes to match, therefore not to be swapped. They are also in a sealed bag with a tie wrap around them so they cannot fall apart and get the inner race and outer races mixed up

The new bearings in your photos look exactly the same as mine and believe me they are DOG ROUGH in comparison to a Timken set, to the point that the surface finish looks like an angle grinder has been used, get your money back quick, make a complaint or whatever it takes but for gods sake don't fit that crap in your pride and joy!!

With regard to the nut situation, I didn't have this problem as I used the original one and the washer off my car.
Best of luck buddy, Neal :)

Just to add, don't put anything other than Timken's in the front hubs either because you'll have similar problems, trust me......Buy from a reputable dealer such as minispares etc and don't scrimp, pay for quality!

Edited by neal, 28 February 2017 - 12:10 AM.

[neal]

Perhaps it would be a good idea if someone who has a genuine set of front and rear Timken bearings could take photos of the packaging, the bearings in detail including the hand etched sizes for the matched bearings, this would then help others to identify bogus bearings from the real deal as this seems to be catching many people out.

[cian]

There are no timken branding marks on those bearings I would be extremely dubious about those and questioning the person you bought them off! I have genuine rear timken bearings instock at £30 each , il take measurements tomorrow!

Cc minis on fb

Edited by cian, 28 February 2017 - 04:03 AM.