10 replies to this topic

[zero_wlv]

 inline fuses.jpg   18.66K   25 downloads

 

I need to replace a couple of inline fuses before the car goes for MOT.

I fear this sounds like a stupid question,  but how do I actually undo them?

Haynes says something about 'twist and squeeze', but that does absolutely nothing to the type of fuses I have.

Searching this forum for 'inline fuses' brings up a few images of hard white plastic two-part canisters which look completely different to mine.

[zero_wlv]

And a clearer pic...

 

 

 inline fuses 2.jpg   43.19K   48 downloads

Edited by zero_wlv, 24 May 2017 - 10:12 PM.

[tiger99]

These are not fuses. They are bullet connectors joining the stalk to the main harness.  They do pull apart, with some difficulty.

[zero_wlv]

Thanks tiger99, I guess I'll have to go and find where the inline fuses actually are! I'll check further along the scuttle.

[panky]

You'll find the fuses behind the carb, tucked up under the scuttle.

[THE ANORAK]

Remove the air box....

[tiger99]

Generally that is correct, but depends on the age of the Mini. The earliest only had the two in the box.

[gazza82]

Knowing what the fuses are for might help locate them!

[tiger99]

What age and model is the car? Check for the nearest wiring diagram in your Haynes manual. That will tell you whether you actually have fuses, or not.

[zero_wlv]

Thanks for the replies,  they are indeed behind the air filter underneath the scuttle,  as Panky suggested   (the car is a late 1988 Mini City by the way,  i.e. 1989 spec):

 

 blade fuses.jpg   31.02K   37 downloads

 

The previous owner had converted them to blade fuses which were taped with duct tape right underneath the scuttle,  so I'd never noticed them before.

The three in the pic appear to be:

 

- blue to blue-orange :  fog lamp

- brown to brown-orange:  -  dim-dip

- brown to purple-orange:  - interior lamp

 

which accounts for all the inline fuses on the Haynes diagram (Wiring diagram 18) except for the stereo  (looking at the mess underneath my dash it could be absolutely anywhere).

 

 

[tiger99]

The blade conversion is a very good thing as the contacts are more robust and give little trouble.

 

When replacing them, please remember that a blade fuse is rated at its continuous current carrying capacity, while a Lucas fuse is rated at the current which will cause it to blow in 1 second. So the blade fuse should be chosen to be half the current rating of the Lucas fuse it replaces, or slightly more if you can't get the exact value. E.g. a 35A Lucas would be replaced by a 20A blade, if available, as you will definitely not be able to get a 17.5A blade. You may get a 16A, wjich if you chec teh circuit loading, may be ok.