
car not firing
#16
Posted 02 October 2006 - 03:56 PM
How can i tell if i am flooding the engine?
#17
Posted 02 October 2006 - 05:20 PM
#18
Posted 02 October 2006 - 06:04 PM
remove the rocker box when setting the dizzy to make sure u have no1 cylinder firing when u think!! could have been 180degrees out to start with and flooded after that!!
if timing is 100% ok and you'r totally sure then leaving it for about half hour should cure the flooding or if u have an su carb try removing the damper pot whilst starting!! if it fires up ok put the damper back in very slowly!! only use a little choke if u do this too!!
EDIT: make sure there is oil in the damper pot!!
Edited by fikus01, 02 October 2006 - 06:04 PM.
#19
Posted 22 October 2006 - 10:55 AM
The problem now tho is that when i turn the key to fire it up it seems as if the car is struggling to turn over, it turns quick then slows right down then quick then slow etc etc, what could this be?
there is oil in the damper pot.
If there is anybody that wouldnt mind comming and taking a look it would be very much appreciated, I would obviously pay you for your troubles?
Cheers
Gaz
#20
Posted 22 October 2006 - 12:45 PM
#21
Posted 22 October 2006 - 07:20 PM
#22
Posted 22 October 2006 - 08:42 PM
noticed why it was not turning over properly, the flywheel was grinding the sides and the back of the casing, any ideas why it would of done this?
Also i need to get a new flywheel now as this one has seen better days! anybody know which 1 i need as i am getting confused whilst looking for 1!! it is a 1275 engine with inertia starter i think!
also once i took all the housing off so i could see if there was anything obvious the other side causing the flywheel to do this i noticed a plastic bearing with a metal ring inside (sorry best i can describe it) its located at the bottom of the block on the end of one of the shafts that stick through from the gearbox, anybody know what this is called? I will try and get photos up tomorow.
sorry for all the questions!!
Cheers
Gaz
#23
Posted 22 October 2006 - 11:43 PM
#24
Posted 23 October 2006 - 01:15 AM
As for the flywheel, I do have an idea but you aren't going to like it. Yes, your flywheel is probably damaged (on its tapered bore). The crank tail will likely be equally damaged. You can dress the tail and flywheel bore to remove high spots then use lapping compound to reseat them to each other. However, it sounds like this may have already been done to your engine... multiple times. The problem is that for every 0.001" you take off the ID/OD of the crank tail and flywheel bore, the flywheel moves 0.007" toward the block. SO... fitting a brand new flywheel may correct the problem. On the other hand, there's just as likely a chance that the crank tail is so damaged that your new flywheel will still pull up too far on the crank tail. by the way, I've seen this before... on my engine. I was lucky and a new/better flywheel corrected my engine's problem.
#25
Posted 29 October 2006 - 10:20 PM
thanks
Gaz
Attached Files
#26
Posted 30 October 2006 - 01:20 AM
ouch! looks like you havent done much damage to it but to be on the safe side its worth making sure the nut hasnt come loose on the gearbox input gear, also chemc the bearing for play!!!! they have been known to and they can push / destroy gear!! i've seen 1 or 2 corcscrew into a flywheel housing!!
just a thought but you're timing issue could have been the timing being too advanced!! bit late to try it now!! could have been firing too soon and tryong to push the piston down before its got to tdc!!
safe bet to check/change oil pump while u can!!
#27
Posted 30 October 2006 - 01:32 PM
Cheeers
Gaz
#28
Posted 30 October 2006 - 05:59 PM
#29
Posted 30 October 2006 - 06:48 PM
If so which one do I want?
BEARING, idler gear
Note: (1.065' O/D, 0.750' I/D)
or
BEARING, idler gear
Note: (1.375' O/D, 0.750' I/D)
or
BEARING, idler gear
Note: (1.375' O/D, 0.875' I/D
Y cant they make these cars more simple!!
Cheers
Gaz
#30
Posted 30 October 2006 - 07:06 PM
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