
1420 turbo
#31
Posted 08 October 2006 - 08:41 AM
#32
Posted 08 October 2006 - 09:41 AM
the mirage kit shouldn't be rusty, its made of stainless!
Stainless can rust!...
#33
Posted 10 October 2006 - 08:43 AM
that mirage stuff is a really good piece of kit.
bit of a warning though, its a right fiddlyjob getting it all fitted. plus you've got to swap the actuator over, make a bracket for that, make a bracket to hold the downpipe away from the pot joint, rotate the compressor housing, make an oil drain, sort out the water connections.
It's definately worth it though, my mates got the mirage setup and T2 on his 1293 and it goes like stink.
the mirage kit shouldn't be rusty, its made of stainless!
it seems some of it is stainless, some is generic steel.
The rust is definately there - I cleaned it all off a couple of nights ago.
the mirage kit shouldn't be rusty, its made of stainless!
Stainless can rust!...
Really - I didnt know that. Learnt something new already today !

that mirage stuff is a really good piece of kit.
bit of a warning though, its a right fiddlyjob getting it all fitted. plus you've got to swap the actuator over, make a bracket for that, make a bracket to hold the downpipe away from the pot joint, rotate the compressor housing, make an oil drain, sort out the water connections.
It's definately worth it though, my mates got the mirage setup and T2 on his 1293 and it goes like stink.
I've started a dry-run build up of the pieces and I am beginning to see what you say

I've got o go to their neck of the woods in a week or so to check progress on my Zeemax kit, if I get any photos of a finished install I'll post them up.
Thanks for the heads-up though

#34
Posted 10 October 2006 - 12:27 PM
#35
Posted 10 October 2006 - 12:54 PM
Stainless does not rust!
If left in contact with carbon steel it will take on the discolouration of rust.
#36
Posted 10 October 2006 - 01:09 PM
Whats generic steel?
Stainless does not rust!
If left in contact with carbon steel it will take on the discolouration of rust.
Hope I'm not wrong but generic steel is not labeld by any company it is quantitive production not qualitative


Let me know if i am wrong

#37
Posted 10 October 2006 - 03:08 PM
You also find some stainless steels with as little as 9% chromium in can rust in ambient temperatures.
#38
Posted 10 October 2006 - 03:45 PM
Now were starting to get technical.
Maybe there is a generic stainless steel with no codeing 304, 316 etc.
I have experianced welds rusting even on 316 and this was due to the heat of the weld depleting the surface chromium, this was rectified by brushing with pickling paste (hydrofloric acid), and then washing off after 1/2 an hour or so.
#39
Posted 10 October 2006 - 05:55 PM
Whats generic steel?
Stainless does not rust!
If left in contact with carbon steel it will take on the discolouration of rust.
If chromium oxide does not form in a weld region then rusting can occur on stainless steel.
You also find some stainless steels with as little as 9% chromium in can rust in ambient temperatures.
Exactly stainless can rust!

#40
Posted 10 October 2006 - 07:01 PM
how much power you lookin to get out of these beasties

Dave

#41
Posted 15 October 2006 - 08:56 PM
Part of the mirage kit has been plasma cut ( you can tell its not laser cut as its quite a rough perimeter line ) this is the area where the T2 mounts to, this part of the kit is not stainless - as far as i can tell - but is a form of steel with a blue colouration to it.
What I do know - and I'll say it again - some of the parts were rusty, no shadow of a doubt, I had to clean off the black paint with thinners, attack with a dremel, and then re-paint with high temp paint having masked it off a little better.
If you download the photos I posted you can see the rust, its all lovely now though, and one boring night last week the dremel was put to use again polishing the sections that are definately stainless.
I wish I knew more about steel grades and types but I'm no engineer. What I do best is get the best advice I can, and then give it a go.
I managed to strap together a fanstatsic 1100 witha 12G295, then a pretty good 1380 - its a natural progression to try something a bit trickier but sometimes it may appear I dont know what I'm talking about - thats because most times I dont!
Thanks for all the great feedback and with the help of you more experienced pro's I'll get this thing going pretty soon.
Bud 666 - thansk for the invite - the old man lives in Tong, and the rest of the family in Telford, and i come over to dereks mini centre quite a lot so i may take you up on that brew sometime soon.
sounds fun!
how much power you lookin to get out of these beasties
Dave
the rolling road print-outs for my normally aspirated 1380 showed approx 115hp at the flywheel, and once finished it was fun to drive.
Any increase on this would be good for me - so i dont get embarresed by tit-heads in peugot 106's again.
I've got be reasonablly sane as the car is a rover cabriolet, and quite a rare shell so i dont want to have to add too much extra bracing or cut any sections of the bulkhead out any more than the avonbar bulkhead box i have already done.
roofless

#42
Posted 19 October 2006 - 12:46 AM

#43
Posted 07 November 2006 - 10:24 PM
whats the quickest / accurate way of measuring stroke?
look at the crank and find where its stamped 84.3mm

i run a stroked turbo and got 157lb of torque at only 12lb of boost, its enough to try and break your thumbs when it comes on boost
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