34 replies to this topic

[GraemeC]

I have an 8.4” brake set up in the for sale section
http://www.theminifo...e-set-now-£150/

Edited by GraemeC, 12 August 2018 - 07:29 AM.

[JonnyAlpha]

I have an 8.4” brake set up in the for sale section
http://www.theminifo...e-set-now-£150/

Ah so you do. Just what I was looking for.

[JonnyAlpha]

Been away on holiday (still am) but wanted to ask. In order to check the engines and move them so that they (or bits of them) can be collected or couriered, I need to split them.

What special tools do I need and any tips.
After doing some reading my under standing is Thatcher bell housing, clutch and flywheel need to be taken off first before splitting the head, block, gearbox

Any tips on getting the manifolds off, looks like some of the nuts are inside the hot air flow area that the air box sits on. I don't have an engine stand but could possibly make one?

Thought I'd drain the oil first.

[WillCarter]

This might help a bit: http://www.theminifo...e-step-by-step/

[johnR]

With regard to restoring the carbs - I stripped mine down, had the bodies vapour blasted after checking wear of throttle spindle bearing surfaces (it's very difficult to clean them properly by hand because of all the nooks and crannies) de-rust the fittings (Deox C) and have them re zinc plated. Get a service kit. Polish dashpots 

[Matt]

John.. where did you have that work done??

[JonnyAlpha]

Mmm yes where?

Edited by JonnyAlpha, 20 August 2018 - 02:42 PM.

[JonnyAlpha]

OK so today I needed to remove this part. 

 

 

Not an easy job.

 

Had to take the whole dash apart

 

[JonnyAlpha]

Bit more progress. 

Yesterday I managed to split one of the engines down. Reason for splitting in situ was so that I could transport it. I don't have a crane at each location even so the block is still a blooming heavy lump!!

 

Started at about 11:00 and finished at about 15:00. All went reasonably well apart from finding out that the timing chain and gears should have been removed whilst the Flywheel was still fitted!!

 

Anyway here it is split:

 

[JonnyAlpha]

Not updates this for a while. I have cleaned up a set of flanges, someone was lined up for buying them but fell through. Still got them for sale:

 

 

Also have a set of 4 Pot Calipers that I am currently cleaning up.

 

Today I started removing the second 1275. This one is in a bit of a state cosmetically, but still has oil in it (Dip Sticks on Min) water pump turns and today I managed to get a pair of grips on the crank pulley and the engine rotates - BONUS

 

 

 

 

This engine has lost its ID number (rusted away), it's an A + (Red Block) buthad a condensor mounted on the Ignition Coil and seems to have a separate unit attached to side of the starter? Is this a Pre Engaged Starter?

 

It took about three hours in all but in that time I managed to disconnect everything ready for it to be lifted out next week.

The only thing that has not been disconnected are the drive shafts, these were a pain on the previous engine and I think these are going to be worst.

 

It was easier to cut through all of the rubber engine mounts, but this time I managed to get the gear linkage off without having to cut through it.

 

 

 

I know it looks a state, but I'm just happy that the engine at least will get recycled in a Mini and this classic engine will breath again.

 

Still got a good 998 engine / g/box complete as well.

 

I also have another 1275 split, but I still can't decide whether to use it or stick with a small bore, may end up selling it as I need the cash to fund my engine and front brake upgrade

[JonnyAlpha]

Set about lifting the second 1275 today, but first I thought I check on the Metro 4 Pot Calipers that I have had stewing in some Citric Acid.

 

Before:

 

 

In the deep dark depths (still bubbling but its about done and needs changing):

 

 

After:

 

 

 

Just need cleaning up with fresh water and a wire brush to get the grey sludge off and they'll look great. Not sure how much they are worth, but I'll be selling them to be refurbished.

Edited by JonnyAlpha, 25 January 2019 - 08:11 PM.

[JonnyAlpha]

Before lifting the engine the last thing that needed to be removed before lifting where the drive shafts. On the last engine I undid the all of the boots but the Pot Joints where quite difficult to get off. This time I took some advice and disconnected the steering arms and top arm and with a bit of gentle persuasion the Drive Shaft had enough room to be pulled out of the way:

 

 

Also decided to drain the oil in case it started to drain through the Pot Joints:

 

 

No great bit chunks of metal on the drain plug:

 

 

I removed the front panel off of the Metro and roped up the engine ready for lift off:

 

 

And hey presto out it came sweet as a nut:

 

 

 So here's the engine before I started removing the remaining Metro Engine mounts and cleaning it up:

 

 

And here it is after about an hour:

 

 

In preparation for splitting I cracked all of the bolts holding on the Water Pump, Clutch Housing and Flywheel Housing.

 

I removed the Spark Plugs and they look fine apart from Cylinder 1 which is a little orange, may be a coolant leak?

 

 

[Boycie]

I understand you're taking the engines apart so you can lift the components by hand, but I'd very much recommend keeping them in one piece if you want to sell anything on.
Dismantled engines will be impossible to sell for worthwhile money, are easy to damage and are now open the the elements, not to mention the ease of losing important parts.
A good used, complete 1275 is worth fair money now, bits of it removed in a field are not!

[dyshipfakta]

How much you after for that engine as it stands? Looks a ?

[JonnyAlpha]

How much you after for that engine as it stands? Looks a

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