43 replies to this topic

[cal844]

Keep tightening, yes it's possible to have a leak without fluid leaks

[elf66]

Are you sure the brakes are adjusted properly and its not that they are so far out they are running out of travel.

 

I have had similar problems with bleeding and resorted to effectively bleeding each joint starting from the master cylinder. Then bleeding properly starting from the longest run and working to the shortest with an assistant on the pedal and opening the nipple on a slow down stroke and closing before releasing the pedal.

[Spider]

If you have access to four hose clamps I'd clamp all the hoses (assuming they're not braided) and check pedal feel and creep. At least you've then eliminated problems with air or adjustment at the wheels.

 

Have you tried doing this?

 

It could well show where you need to focus your attention.

[Ethel]

It might be worth making up a blind union or two by snipping off a some old flares with enough pipe length to flatten and fold fluid tight. You can then block off each circuit in turn and, if necessary, work away from the master along the other - the pedal should be rock solid with no wheel cylinders attached.

 

I might be inspired to tap some unions myself to take some screws and washers as temporary intermediate bleed nips.

[Magneto]

Did you try bleeding the rears the way I suggested? did it work?

[Norris73]

Finally made some progress yesterday, with my mate assisting.

 

I went around all wheels again removing the drums, to my surprise both wheel cylinders were leaking behind the front passenger drum - only just replaced with brand new genuine items from minispares a couple of weeks ago! Replaced these with some really old stock the previous owner had in a box of parts - dated 23rd week of 1981 (so far no leaks!).

 

We then locked off all the adjusters and proceeded to bleed, after only passing about 250ml of fluid through we had a solid pedal right at the top of the movement! We then went round and adjusted the brake adjusters, first the rear - still excellent pedal after adjusting them. Then the fronts, were it all went wrong again! The front passenger adjuster - the lower/front one is massively loose! it woobles about and can be moved up and down by hand! The others all seem ok! These were all fine before the 'classic specialist' thought he would adjust my brakes!!

 

Anyway - I know for deffinte now that the master cylinder, bulkhead valve and all associated pipe work are ok and working fine, the problem is with the front drum brakes. This is the final straw for me with front drum brakes, they have always caused me issues and have at best only just been adequate - and always squealed like a bansee after only a couple of applications! At the moment I have massive pedal travel about half way down before firming up - however the front wheels do lock up under very heavy braking, and plumbing the master cylinder correctly has made a huge difference. I can feel progress is being made, slowly!

 

Im thinking along the lines of a 7.5" cooper brake conversion. Only things that have me concerned, my Clubby Estate is totally original - will this devalue it, or will the added safety of proper brakes outweigh the non-originality. Will the track increasing by an extra inch cause the wheels to be too far out from the arches - I do not want to have to fit arch extensions etc. Does anyone know what bearings are supplied with the Minispares own brand drum to 7.5" disk conversion (£455 one), are they Timpkins or own brand ones - Will only fit Timpkins.

 

Thanks for all the help,

 

Olie

 

 

[KTS]

if you do decide to switch to disks, might be worth overhauling and squirreling away the existing drum hub assemblies so you can retro-fit them if/when you think it's worth going back to the original setup

[Ethel]

I'd call it a totally acceptable period mod that will add value in the eyes of all but the most anal anorak. It'll certainly affect the value less than locking up and skidding in to a lamppost!

[Ethel]

I'd call it a totally acceptable period mod that will add value in the eyes of all but the most anal anorak. It'll certainly affect the value less than locking up and skidding in to a lamppost!

[cal844]

I agree with Ethel, do the disc conversion then ask for your bill to be reduced accordingly

[Homersimpson]

I'd call it a totally acceptable period mod that will add value in the eyes of all but the most anal anorak. It'll certainly affect the value less than locking up and skidding in to a lamppost!

Absolutely this, just keep the original brakes in the garage in case you ever sell it to an anorak with a death wish!

[Magneto]

I just did a set of these from MiniSpares on a Moke yesterday and was pleased to see bearings laser etched Made in England right on the bearing. Not Timken brand, but then not Chinese either. I felt comfortable installing them.

 

by the way, Timken has several bearing plants in China...….

[[email protected]]

I know this thread has moved onto the front brakes, but just to touch on the original rear lock-up post and a different root cause for somewhat similar behaviour...

I once had rear drum lock up under braking. I found that I had a leaking wheel cylinder contaminating the shoes. A new wheel cylinder and some new shoes solved it.



Also, re: adjusting the rear shoes - what are people's thoughts on these recommendations? See: https://youtu.be/M02bqqNOlkY

Edited by [email protected], 26 April 2019 - 01:39 AM.

[sonikk4]

I converted my 74 Clubby from front drums to 7.5" discs and to be honest its the best thing i ever did. And nope it won't devalue the car. I have kept mine as well in case i ever (no i won't) decide to refit them.