Mini Mad
Posted 12 December 2019 - 05:22 PM
do i cut out the upper bulkhead panel out to fit a large miglia type bulkhead box or not ime running a 16v red top with twin 45 webbers anyone know whats needed regards the bulkhead to fit a redtop
Edited by wreckitralph, 12 December 2019 - 11:05 PM.
Formally known as wreckitralph
Posted 22 December 2019 - 09:28 PM
need a bit of advice here so i fitted the heelboard and using a box section jig was happy with that on thinking it over i decided to fit a rear subframe to check and take some datums so from the rear arch to the front ede of the heel board lip i have 90 and 91.5 from the punched holes in the floor pan to the flat of the heel board i have 750 mm both sides [measured inside the car] from the heel board face to the rear subframe mounting hole on the boot floor i have approx 598-99 on the drivers side and 595 passenger side there is a slight offset of the trunnion holes when offered against the boot floor,,,,, pics so i could undo the weld securing the heel board stiffener to the inner cill and adjust it the 3=4 mm or is it acceptable the holes could be elongated for all i know the subframe does bolt into place on all 8 bolts the boot i jiggled the trunnion with a long bolt then tighteed the one and it pulled it into line on the boot floor i dont mind undoin some work i have done in order to get it perfect it is all a learning curve just ned a few opinions as to best course to take i think its shifted because a few posts back the measurements were spot on to those bolts on the boot floor
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Edited by Wreckitralph1, 22 December 2019 - 09:59 PM.
Formally known as wreckitralph
Formally known as wreckitralph
Posted 23 December 2019 - 05:36 PM
sorted 
i say that again sorted 
so i had a brace coming down onto the tunnel at the rear that was welded in place to keep the correct height of the floor i spent over an hour today measuring and remeasuring and the long and short i was 4-5mm out front to back the heel board is level and square where its welded to the floor but the lot needed to come forward [i think being i have no backrest on the rear seat and during all the moving around of the shell the boot floor had drooped forward] and it was all braced up in that position
so i cut the weld to the brace on the tunnel fitted the subframe to the heel board and made sure it was fully tightened then using two long levers in the rear holes in the boot floor mounting points and the subbies rearmost trunnions and with an assistant helping i put two high tensile bolts in the front holes and tightened them fullly giving a little tweak of the levers as i did so and locked the nuts down tight its now perfect the floor has shifted slightly [4mm] i then retacked the brace on the tunnel removed the subframe remeasured and its ******* on ime so releived it had me scratching my head and stressing over it its a **** load of money in panels to then have it crab or the subframes not line up correctly so now i can go into the new year full steam ahead will upload pics llater nothing exciting just datum points and measurements but probably the most critical aspect of the build to date
Edited by Wreckitralph1, 23 December 2019 - 05:59 PM.
Formally known as wreckitralph
Posted 24 December 2019 - 03:12 PM
may be useful to other members
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Formally known as wreckitralph
Posted 11 January 2020 - 05:33 PM
so ive had a nightmare this last two weeks trying to get the subframe mount/closig panels as i wanted them [as you may have seen elswhere on the forum] today i had a word with myself as i was building it up to be a far bigger problem than it should be
so take a step back then charge so firstly to change my focus for a bit i made an inner cill stiffener going for strength here not originality its just mild steel 1.2mm bent into a u section 15 mm lip internal ten mm external face. this is going to be welded to the bottom of the b pillar and to the closing panel
i couldnt be bothered getting the bender out so i used a peice of box section clamped the sheet of steel to it and used a panel beating hammer to turn the lips down
the inner cills have also been beefed up to 1.2 mm reason being its having a rollcage and would give something a bit more substantial to weld in the corner boxes around the cages feet
just before i offered this stiffener into place to trim ect as needed i removed the closing plate i had clamped in [it wasnt sitting right anyway] there was a definite drop of the shell so i used a ratchet strap both sides in the centre of the shell just beind the b pillar i have a box section welded across the shell here i checked the measurements heel board to rear mounting bot holes then front of wheel arch to front edge of the heelboard and everytjing is ******* on the gaps at the end of the hee;board to the closig panels i had have also gone theyre nice and snug so with everything in place supported checked double checked and zinc primered on mating faces tomorrow i will be crack ng the mig open
somehow and despite bracing the shell it had mved at some point wich was throwing me still dont know how unless my lad had been in the shed and moved it to get his bike out but either way its back on track
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Edited by Wreckitralph1, 11 January 2020 - 05:49 PM.
Mini Mad
Posted 12 January 2020 - 02:16 AM
Formally known as wreckitralph
Posted 12 January 2020 - 06:36 PM
got this side welded in today spot and seam the weld on the bottom of the b post inside face will have to be redone [bugger] run out of gas ass i did that part so had a bit of porosity in the weld and its a pet hate so started knocking it flat to reweld it get some gas refilled first thing in the morning have to say so far so good its very very strong feeling
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Edited by Wreckitralph1, 12 January 2020 - 07:03 PM.
Formally known as wreckitralph
Posted 12 January 2020 - 06:52 PM
just put a slice and tap it in around 5 mm on the end
you will notice theres a big hole in the inner cill hands up to this thats due to a ******* up but will be rectified [explain that later] going to put a peice of 1.2 mm steel in there weld the heel board stiffener bracket to that instead of the 0'9 mm original its only .3 but noticable
oh and as you can see ive decided to replace the quarters therewas no other way of getting in there to get a weld i cant go inside the car and put any weight on it atm
Edited by Wreckitralph1, 15 January 2020 - 11:20 AM.
Formally known as wreckitralph
Posted 14 January 2020 - 07:42 PM
only managed an hour today so did a bit of folding ready for a full days work tomorrow full inner cills using part of a magnum full inner cill as a patern and also the other stiffener surface rust will obviously all be cleaned back to bright metal looks worse in the pic than it is
Formally known as wreckitralph
Posted 14 January 2020 - 07:54 PM
pics
maybe now would be a good time to explain regards why i have fitted a full new floor then chopped out the inner cills that was a mistake on my part and the floor had to go forward an extra 5mm
the tunnel where it meets the toe board i thought was in place there seemed to be a natural line that they met at and if any further forward there was a big over hang at least thats what i thought
so after sorting the heelboard i realised it needed to go forward to the point i thought was to much in the beginning i had gone mental with the spot welder it made a bit of a mess of theinner cills drilling them out i didnt want to have to grind down loads off plug welds in the holes ide drilled to seperate them and possibly [probably] thin the metal so i decided to chop them out and while i was at it i made them from 1.2mm steel bit gutted to have to cut a new floor but you learn from your mistakes and a good opportunity to beef up ready for the cage [atleast thats how ime justifying it because if not ime likely to cry]
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Edited by Wreckitralph1, 15 January 2020 - 11:28 AM.
Formally known as wreckitralph
Posted 15 January 2020 - 11:38 AM
so now i need to sort some rear quarters. but i really like the look on these so ime thinking i have nothing to lose other than time and some 1 mm steel i may when the rest of the welding is sorted .make or at least try to make something similaire.
and have a wide body
a few thoughts have gone through my mind 1 was to use thin steel rod to make the skeleton of the arch the when happy with the size shape ect weld the outer panel to this and linish the welds tub the arches and fetch them out to the new quarter arch lip and weld them up
it should i would think be very strong and instead of an arch over the top of the original rear quarter its replacing the rear quarter completely
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Edited by Wreckitralph1, 15 January 2020 - 11:43 AM.
Up Into Fourth
Posted 15 January 2020 - 11:57 AM
depending on how much of the quarter panel you're thinking of replacing, just bear in mind that it is a structural panel
Formally known as wreckitralph
Posted 15 January 2020 - 05:47 PM
point welll made mate and taken on board havent gone to indepth at the moment regards it as want to get the whole floor cill subframe mounnt ect in solidly first but will be food for thought come that stage so thanks for the input.....
got a few hours today so did a little bit
if doing this type of inner cill stiffener again i would do this bit as art of the stifener as 1 peice with this as a fold and instead of welding it on after but as i say ime making it up as i go along and its fine as is just would save me a bit of time
so inner cill in place all trimmed up ready to go apart from cleaning back to bright with a wire knot wheel things are just roughly held in place will but up a bit tighter than it is atm leaving around a 2 mm gap which means i can linish the weld smooth after welding
and that was it for today happy with things so far clean up the steel tomorrow and get the mig on the go before jumping to the other side
Edited by Wreckitralph1, 15 January 2020 - 07:20 PM.
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