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Mpi Not Starting


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#31 ColinSp8

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Posted 27 February 2019 - 08:27 PM

Just been out to car.  Now won't turn over.  Will disconnect battery tomorrow leave off while I refix bonnet switch wire.  ECU plugs are clicked into place cant be pulled out without releasing lugs. Will get new quality fob batteries synchronise them to car and start over.

 

Jime 17 has a point, even though car battery is new  also will jump from a slave to get it spinning.

 

Snap of the earth point will be good. A mechanic friend took out the main wiring loom to the ECU etc when he lifted the engine for me. There did not seem to be any connectors left over when I put it back on restoration but will locate earth point to make sure connections are solid.

 

thank you all up to now for your help. 



#32 Wiggy

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Posted 27 February 2019 - 08:31 PM

Just for clarity:

After the restoration, did the engine run, then 4 years elapsed?

Or it ran 4 years ago, then was restored, then wasn't started for 4 years?

#33 ColinSp8

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Posted 27 February 2019 - 08:58 PM

engine ran prior to restoration 4 years ago. hasn't run since. No mods or repairs to engine as it ran without any issues. All parts stored in dry location. To give some indication of resto work I have reproduced sheet I intend to submit to British Mini Club for valuation following fresh MOT.

Rover Mini Cooper 1.3 MPI
R284 CGT Flame red White roof with factory Webasto.
Work commenced June 2015
Engine at 57k works fine partial service history, when driven 4 years ago it ran with no rattles etc, gearbox & clutch all in order. Head off, bores ok.
Bodywork all new parts fitted as follows
Front wings and front panel, door jambs, A panels and flitch panels, whole body bare metal respray, complete floor to o/side floor, 2/3 to n/side, sills, jacking points and sling plates, complete heel board, boot floor, rear susp tops, rear valance, closing gussets etc. rear subframe. Radius arms professionally refurbished, trumpet cones.
All glass, door and boot rubbers inc windscreen infill strip, window lift rubbers and channels, gutter strip in chrome, front, wiper arms etc, rear bumpers and grille all in stainless steel. Dashboard pro restored. Original carpets unmarked. New soundproofing all round.
Coach lines, bonnet stripes and decals as per original to be fitted when warmer!
Complete new brakes all round inc rear wheel cylinders, shoes, springs, braided hoses, h/brake cables, brake lines. New front caliper’s, discs and pads, braided hoses, master cylinder overhauled, track rod ends, and all ball joints, CV boots renewed
New radiator, hoses, water pump, HT leads, thermostat, temp sensor, exhaust complete inc cat. New clutch master cylinder braided hose and slave cylinder, fuel and oil filters, battery.
4 new Falken 165 12 60 tyres. Original minilites refurbed.

Now you can see why I want it started!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Edited by the.stroker, 28 February 2019 - 05:58 AM.
VIN detailes removed


#34 Wiggy

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Posted 27 February 2019 - 09:14 PM

Ah ha. Well that puts a slightly different spin on it.

Make sure the Blue connector is plugged into the crank sensor (underneath the starter motor) Not the Brown connector. I'm going from memory here. I think it's those that can mixed up.

Make sure the cam sensor is plugged in. It's easily missed. (Back of the block, on the right hand side).

Check the big 30A fuses in the under bonnet fuse box. (black box, front left of engine bay.) One terminal of that fuse box slides out. Make sure it's been replaced. One of the fuse legs won't be connected to anything if it hasn't.

#35 ColinSp8

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Posted 27 February 2019 - 09:59 PM

thank you will check sensor plugs tomorrow

 

30 amp fuses all renewed seem to all in place again will check



#36 cal844

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Posted 27 February 2019 - 10:41 PM

A note to the OP, or ADMIN to edit the posts with registration and VIN numbers please? Yes it is handy to know the vin details for these cars but please only post last 6 digits instead of full vin.

My suggestion is to charge the current battery fully, if it still won't crank get a replacement battery for the car (I use an 063 in my carb minis, maybe worth going next size?) I usually get my MOT centre to source me a fresh battery from the suppliers instead of one that's been on a shelf for weeks.

or borrow a battery jump pack from your local garage(leave them a refundable deposit for when the booster goes back to them) then if the car starts and runs get them to source a battery

#37 viz139

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Posted 27 February 2019 - 11:10 PM

Had a similar problem with a freshly painted MPi years ago. It was the earth behind the expansion bottle , really needed to remove paint to get sorted properly.



#38 ColinSp8

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Posted 28 February 2019 - 08:15 AM

thank you new battery from local supplier border tyres fully charged and recharged after each session.

 

Just a thought re earths had an issue two weeks ago where reconnected front lamps heads sides indicators were all not happy.  Impossible to connect wrongly due to differing plugs etc and Continuity test revealed poor earths.  when I made a test loop up and separate headlamp earth to clean metal everything was fine.

 

Long way round of saying given I have no spark or injectors my issue must, he says praying, be earth related. Will clean up the one suggested by mini mad and wiggy your pic of other would be appreciated.  

 

ECU 5/16 securing bolts and bracket to body cleaned is that the ECU earth or is it in the loom attached at on of the points suggested.

 

Thick fog here today will have a go later.  Apols for the VIN detail.

 

Once again thank you for your replies.



#39 jime17

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Posted 28 February 2019 - 08:32 AM

Try a jump lead between shell and head stud? See if it helps?

Jumping from another vehicle has solved a number of no starts over the years for me.

#40 pete l

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Posted 28 February 2019 - 09:01 AM

What ECU does this car have ? The 2J MPI one ?

 

If so, you could get one of these T300 readers

 

https://www.aliexpre...in=n&isViewCP=y

 

 

I have one, and have compared it to my T4 that I now have and they give the same readings.



#41 Wiggy

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Posted 28 February 2019 - 12:43 PM

Here's some pics.

ECU Earth point.

WEMSlrr.jpg

The 2 sensor connectors that can get mixed up. Left is the front of the car.

gYUEhqp.jpg

Cam sensor. Bulkhead is on the right.

PFlyYgb.jpg

There is a multi earth point behind the expansion tank. Can't photo it. I don't think any of those are mission critical though.

#42 ColinSp8

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Posted 28 February 2019 - 01:22 PM

Thank you will investigate when the rain stops !!!!



#43 NielsTim

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Posted 01 March 2019 - 07:32 AM

Is there a possibility that any of the wiring is not done properly or is not making the connection? talking again about making sure the earth is working (can check using multi-meter). 



#44 MacGyver

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Posted 01 March 2019 - 08:40 AM

Not sure if it was suggested, but is the pump working? And is the inertia switch 'flipped'?

Ben

#45 pete l

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Posted 01 March 2019 - 09:25 AM

Does sound like the crank flywheel sensor could be dead. Not sending a signal to the ECU.






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