40 replies to this topic

[miniman1994]

Sounds like the Jet needs chaging. I had the same issue on mine, put the wrong Jet in arter refurb and died instantly on throttle. Changed the Jet back to the correct one... runs like a dream!

[postve]

Confirmed and very interesting - swapping out the standard Su oil for thicker 20/50 seems to have done the trick. Again my only issue was dying under acceleration but went all over the place tonight and she was good - will push to the limit tomorrow for the full monty

So BFY set at 0.127 inches and she purrs like a kitten and absolutely no backfire upon acceleration and more importantly when I turn it off.

Oh I did use some carb cleaner and more importantly sprayed in the needle seat as did notice a little dirty in there swab with a few q-tips and put the needle back in.

So far so good!!

[postve]

Thx mini man and I had the metro HIF44 checked out when I got it form the UK as a refurbished carb and everything checked out.

As I mentioned it looks like the 20/50 for the dashpot May have done the trick as runs great .

Tonight I am going to push it hard and see what happens - as a few pushes yesterday- babysteps

Logic is that the SU carb oil standard may be too light and piston is moving too fast and not enough gas flowing. Thicker oil will help carb to run much richer on acceleration and offset the starvation for gas.

I'm a novice so the logic seems to work - tonight is the night though

[Trissy B]

Hi, I'm still waiting to get my Colourtune to get the mixture 'sorted' but I have just changed the needle to BCE and then changed the dash pot oil to a thicker 20W-50.

 

Made a load of difference and revs up much better. Now just got to sort the mix well enough to drive to the rolling road.

 

Also, the throttle return spring is too loose and is'nt properly returning. I phoned Southern Carburetors and they reckon that you cant buy them new anymore!!?

 

Anyone know if you can tighten them up?...

 

[/url]IMG_20190607_105304 by Trissy B, on Flickr">http://<a href='http....kr/p/2gackTK'>IMG_20190607_105304 by Trissy B, on Flickr

[Trissy B]

 

Hi all, have a 1275 with an Hif44, Mg metro cam. Its been off the road for 6 weeks and running fine before..

I've put on a new maniflow stage 2 lcb and rcm exhaust. Also the carbs just been modified and inlet manifold port matched.

Now, I had trouble initially starting up eventually getting going with full choke and no throttle. It idles erratically but the main thing is that any throttle kills the engine. Tried mucking about with the mixture but can't get it right.

Any tips?

You have put on a new maniflow stage 2 lcb, it is likely the flanges on this are 8mm thick.

 

Some of the inlet manifold flanges are not quite 8mm thick. In my experience the washers can't take up more than about 10thou difference between inlet and exhaust flanges before you start to get poor sealing on inlet and idle / weak mixture issues.

 

 

I also have a new Maniflow inlet which I haven't measured but looks the same thickness. I sprayed WD40 in the area and there was no sign of change in revs, so i assume its sealing ok. Cheers.

[postve]

Trissy

This is great news as confirms my experience with adding 20/50 so very happy to hear another miniguy sees it as the fix

As for the throttle I have or had the exact same experience. I went through two cables and problem is any and I mean any fraying of the cable however minor will inhibit movement and result is will simply not go back to a original state - idle position

What I did was add another spring and attach to the base metal plate of my K&n to create tension and force return to idle position - problem solved

Let me send you a picture before I head off to work - give me a few minutes

[timmy850]

Possibly a silly question (but I've seen it done before) but you do have the throttle and choke cables connected properly at the carb?

[postve]

This is all temp but works as return spring I would suggest to swap spring with stronger classic carb springs.

 

[Trissy B]

Postve, you are missing a choke cable clip which holds the cable flat to the metal rather than passing though it. See my pic.

Also, the throttle cable should pass through a different hole slightly towards the front of the car (possibly that shiny silver bolt if its hollow).

That might help cables to run more freely.

[postve]

Thank you trissy I will take a closer look at your pic as was driving me mad so I hacked it

[croc7]

Postve, you are missing a choke cable clip which holds the cable flat to the metal rather than passing though it. See my pic.

Also, the throttle cable should pass through a different hole slightly towards the front of the car (possibly that shiny silver bolt if its hollow).

That might help cables to run more freely.

He's also not using the correct throttle cable for HIF44-Mini Spares P/N for RHD is SBB10099, LHD SBB10126.  Both the choke cable clip and throttle cable should be mounted to the abutment plate.  Looks like there's an extra piece of hardware in use for cable attachment.

Edited by croc7, 07 June 2019 - 06:13 PM.

[postve]

croc7,

 

I am not using correct throttle cable and likely never will.  This is a frankenmini and could give a hoot about authenticity as looking to race this thing on the circuit and looking for the biggest bang for the buck.

 

That being said, we purposely drilled new holes for the accelerator cable as a temp solution.  

[postve]

Anyways, thank you gentlemen for the information as came in extremely handy and this forum is amazing....

[Trissy B]

The proper cable has a plastic ferrule that clicks into place on the abutment. Seems to ensure the cable goes onto the throttle at the right angle. No doubt you could knock something equivalent up.

[croc7]

croc7,

 

I am not using correct throttle cable and likely never will.  This is a frankenmini and could give a hoot about authenticity as looking to race this thing on the circuit and looking for the biggest bang for the buck.

 

That being said, we purposely drilled new holes for the accelerator cable as a temp solution.  

I didn't mention the use of the wrong throttle cable to point out a lack of authenticity.  Installation of the additional throttle return spring was to help with a sticking throttle, right? The throttle cable designed for use on the HIF44 works perfectly to do just that.