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#16 998dave

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Posted 25 October 2006 - 04:42 PM

Theoretically yes, it's aparallel circuit, so would reduce flow rate to both heater and manifold, but would flow... Although actually it depends which way it flow's through the manifold as to how well it all works.

Unless your feeling really brave and planning on using convection currents!

#17 mini93

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Posted 25 October 2006 - 04:43 PM

i would think the flow would work because as the heat transfers along the system the hotter water will replace the cooler lot creating flow also getting sucked through by the water pump should be fine...if that makes sence!?

#18 Jordie

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Posted 25 October 2006 - 04:44 PM

I dont think so, as the cooler water from the heater exit would be able to flow back across the manifold and back into the heater.

The water needs to go round the block to heat up.

It would work, but i wouldnt be sure how efficent it was and your heater may drop in temp.

#19 1984mini25

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Posted 25 October 2006 - 04:50 PM

I dont think so, as the cooler water from the heater exit would be able to flow back across the manifold and back into the heater.

The water needs to go round the block to heat up.

It would work, but i wouldnt be sure how efficent it was and your heater may drop in temp.


:genius: Was hoping on not having any more hoses all over the engine bay, but looks like it probably won’t work the way I had planed, so will have to plum it in like the first one.

#20 THE ANORAK

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Posted 25 October 2006 - 05:47 PM

don't forget !!!

later cars with an in-line heater valve have a different pipe layout. !!!!

sorry to make things worse :genius:

also the MG metro and the carb Coopers have heated manifolds as standard so you may be able to use
the "off the shelf" pipes from these cars. (i'm just guessing :dontgetit: )

#21 fikus01

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Posted 25 October 2006 - 06:14 PM

its a lot easier to do a later model engine!! cut the old heater pipe down just run a bit of pipe from the heater outlet to the drivers side of the heated manifold!! then shorten the heater inlet pipe and put that on the outlet side!!

#22 Maxmini

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Posted 25 October 2006 - 09:32 PM

I thought the heated manifold was to help get the engine to working temp quicker so you can take the choke off quicker. Keeping the air temp colder will Improve performance.

#23 fikus01

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Posted 25 October 2006 - 11:11 PM

cold air is good!! cold manifold isnt, i dont see that in that short space that is the manifold that the air could get significantly hotter for you to lose power!! tho the cold manifold COULD upset fuelling!! please i emphasize COULD!! not every mini will suffer from this!!

#24 Sprocket

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Posted 26 October 2006 - 06:43 PM

When I get round to fitting my stage one kit, I was planning on pluming it in like this using t piece connectors of the hoses already there.


It will work to a degree, but, to wich degree is difficult to say. The coolant will always take the path of least resistance, and that my friend is, the inlet manifold. There is a reasonable presure drop across the heater matrix.

Plumb it in in series.

To overcome the problem of plumbing on earlier engines with the heater valve on the head, fit a sandwich plate under the thermostat, along with the correct bolts and rad bracket. Plum that to the inlet and the return, 'T' into theheater return at the bottom hose.

Better to have it plumbed in all the time so that it doesnt disrupt the tune of the engine with the heater on or off if plumbed the other way.


Mine has been done but it didnt do it so i duno how its done really :o

But from looking at it there is another bracker coming off the head underneeth the original radiator brakcer then hoses coming off that bracker going the the inlet.

Hope i might be going over to thanet tomurow so if i do i could robs pop over to you abd show you. But thats no definate yet.

Edit: ok you cant acctually see it in the pic much at all but its raining now so ill try and get some better pics when the weather gets better.


Yours was plumbed as standard from the factory and is the correct way to do it on later engines with the inline heater valve, As i did on the wifes 94 mayfair.

#25 Major Burkenshaw

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Posted 26 October 2006 - 07:46 PM

On the way home last night, I got stuck in heavy stop/start traffic, the car started idle-ing badly then cut out competely. The fault..........

Vapour lock,lol

It appears that the ambient temperature in the engine bay got so high, that the fuel was evaporating while in the manifold. It has a water cooled manifold fitted, but not plumb in. So i'm guessing in my mini's case, it is needed.

I'll plumb it in and see if it cures the problem!

And before you ask, the cooling system was opperating correctly.

#26 Retro_10s

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Posted 26 October 2006 - 07:49 PM

fingers crossed, report back mate!

#27 fikus01

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Posted 26 October 2006 - 11:04 PM

could also have been excess heat on the bottom of the carb or on the fuel supply pipe from the pump to the floa chamber!!!! not a lot of space back there for heat to escape




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