24 replies to this topic

[imack]

If it's all been balanced I'd be tempted to keep the diaphragm if there's nothing wrong with it and just replacethe centre plate. My orange diaphragm's 30 years old now and still going strong.

Very difficult to find that centre thrust plate. Nobody seems to stock them. There’s a couple in the USA but they work out dearer than a new complete diaphragm.

I think he means the clutch driven plate - not the diaphragm thrust plate.

Yeah I mean replace the clutch driven plate only.
The thrust plates don't normally wear unless the clutch is incorrectly adjusted and the release bearing has been in constant contact with the thrust plate.(the thrust plate used to be available separately)
I've just replaced my pre verto release bearing and fitted the heavy duty bearing from mini spares - this type has a much greater surface area in contact with the thrust plate. I'm sure this used to be the standard release bearing that was used years ago.

I bought a KOR comp thrust bearing. But I’m not 100% sure which was round it goes. Does the side without writing face the clutch? All previous bearings have been the same both sides so never questioned it. I assume the flatter side goes against the thrust plate?

That's the one I've got. The smooth ground side goes towards the thrust plate, writing towards wok.

Edited by imack, 27 April 2020 - 09:30 AM.

[goudoogje]

i always keep the diaphragm, the originals are better then what you can buy now. 

 

I had a new one last year, and the bearing "eats" his way into it. Put the old one back, no problems then. 

[blacktulip]

I've got a spare used orange diaphragm if you need one

[Minigman]

I've got a spare used orange diaphragm if you need one

Thanks for the offer. I think the one I have is ok but as I’ve replaced everything else in sight I thought why stop haha.

I’ll buy a new one just in case as mine has been on and off a few cars over the years. Just thought about using a lighter one instead this time as the orange one can be heavy.

[Minigman]

Changed the orange diaphragm to blue and can’t engage any gears at all. It’s as if the release bearing isn’t coming into contact with the diaphragm. Took it back out and measured the height difference on the bench. The orange is 2mm taller. Changed the flywheel from lightened with lightened back plate back to all standard set up and still doesn’t work. Loads of play on the clutch arm now. Wound out the stop nut to take up the slack in the arm and still nothing. Put a nut in the slave cylinder cone and it works. So I need a longer push rod to make things happen. Everything else is new (literally everything). Push rod travel is about 15mm.

Any ideas why this is an ongoing problem?

[nicklouse]

You say everything is literally new what is not new? 
 

what is your return stop bolt clearance set to?

[Minigman]

You say everything is literally new what is not new?

what is your return stop bolt clearance set to?

The master cylinder isn’t new. But I seem to have good travel at 15mm. The pipe from the master to slave isn’t new.

Return stop is 20 thou. One thing I noticed after fitting the blue diaphragm with both flywheel options is that it allows significant 3-4mm greater movement on that arm. I had to wind the bolt out a long way before the release bearing made contact with the diaphragm.

[Spider]

 

 

 

 

If it's all been balanced I'd be tempted to keep the diaphragm if there's nothing wrong with it and just replacethe centre plate. My orange diaphragm's 30 years old now and still going strong.

Very difficult to find that centre thrust plate. Nobody seems to stock them. There’s a couple in the USA but they work out dearer than a new complete diaphragm.

I think he means the clutch driven plate - not the diaphragm thrust plate.

Yeah I mean replace the clutch driven plate only.
The thrust plates don't normally wear unless the clutch is incorrectly adjusted and the release bearing has been in constant contact with the thrust plate.(the thrust plate used to be available separately)
I've just replaced my pre verto release bearing and fitted the heavy duty bearing from mini spares - this type has a much greater surface area in contact with the thrust plate. I'm sure this used to be the standard release bearing that was used years ago.

I bought a KOR comp thrust bearing. But I’m not 100% sure which was round it goes. Does the side without writing face the clutch? All previous bearings have been the same both sides so never questioned it. I assume the flatter side goes against the thrust plate?

 

 

 

Just be aware there's been issues with the KOR Bearings;-

 

http://www.theminifo...rbox-questions/

http://www.theminifo...-gear-bearings/

 

 

 

i always keep the diaphragm, the originals are better then what you can buy now. 

 

I had a new one last year, and the bearing "eats" his way into it. Put the old one back, no problems then. 

 

 

Yes, I had a few of these too, but that was about 6 - 8 years back. The current ones I've been supplied have been OK though.
 

[Minigman]

It’s very hard to find anything that’s reliable these days. I swapped to the comp release bearing as I thought it would be an upgrade from the standard one. It seemed fine when I reinstalled it yesterday.

[Minigman]

Having got my clutch working eventually after a lot of faffing about (read the thread), I suffered bearing failure yesterday. Not the idler this time but the release bearing. And guess what! It was the KOR competition type coded 201 and 238 out of a SCH box. It lasted 2300 miles. Unfortunately I’ve bought another bearing quickly as I need one to get my car to Castle Combe on Saturday and when it turned up from Bull Motif in super quick time it’s also a KOR bearing. It’s going in regardless as I’ve not got time to shop for another, but I will be swapping it out for a better one as soon as I can. Seems KOR are worth avoiding.