36 replies to this topic

[exuptoy]

Got my A post cut out and cut n shut with a section from my magnum panel and ground back and after getting fed up of trapping the cables and water pipe for the washer bottle I decided to make a few cable retainers so they didn’t get melted or trapped when fitting the frame. I had to replace the washer pipe anyway as is was melted from when I started! I had a roll of VW stuff from when I had my Transporter facelifted so fitted that at the same time.

 EC66B989-7DCE-4CF2-83BB-14F0466D2449.jpeg   76.87K   0 downloads

 084855AD-E4EA-4737-AA1B-112223B446AF.jpeg   39.43K   0 downloads

 C944EDCF-0B67-48AC-B7D1-C96C7D7E391E.jpeg   55.7K   0 downloads

I borrowed a spot welder from a mate, got a few tacks on the frame and test fitted the door. All gaps look good so tomorrow I will complete the door frame install.

 03782EEE-96DC-4533-BEB7-940FB3114086.jpeg   69.42K   0 downloads

 6DB6C645-3C17-40F2-9DBF-738346138BB7.jpeg   52.27K   1 downloads

 0023E3B4-E4CF-4529-A37C-152E1AFF2D80.jpeg   49.89K   2 downloads

 A950CD3E-8B61-4603-B6F9-F0E88D0D6261.jpeg   51.94K   3 downloads

[exuptoy]

Cut a piece to take up the gap in the lower B-pillar before welding it in. Got my rear arch to door repair welded in and dressed back, had an issue when shaping the lip around the curve where there was too much metal to made a relief cut and beat the excess into the void then welded it up.






















Made a start spot welding the roof gutter and tidied a few welds up. Distortion is minimal. May have gone overboard on the spots though

[exuptoy]

Been putting this job off so haven’t been in the garage since getting home from work. Been stressing on if I should strip the subframes out and turn it over on a spit.
Decided to flatten the lips on the rearmost end of the sill to allow it to sit under the rear subframe which means I can re-attach the new sills on the floor. Maybe when theres more strength in the shell I can rotate it, so started cutting out along the floor. My door brace is still attached to the crossmember so nothing has moved.

 C9881057-8B3B-446E-B0C6-8F20C2BA8BF5.jpeg   48.12K   0 downloads

steel RC40?  69942001-5351-45FE-9583-BE9A31B92386.jpeg   86.26K   1 downloads

That’s a lot of rot gone. Also scored a win on a secondhand exhaust for £50. Turned out to be a stainless

 B7193138-945E-4327-9EC1-382D3C9D1130.jpeg   62.53K   3 downloads

[exuptoy]

Removed the subframe bolts of which both of them snapped! Cut the subframe mount panel out back to good metal with various tools in the confined space under the seat pan. Then I pushed the snapped bolts thru the new repair panel and copied the shape then cut and welded in place but only after positioning it with the subframe bolts through the subframe mount.

 D7E99342-E94C-45C3-B6C7-488A4BEB02A6.jpeg   41.09K   0 downloads

Next a few spot welds all on the doorstep to check the fit of the door (door skin is shot so it looks worse than it is).

 F1FBC012-F240-46DD-8290-CF7D4BCF717A.jpeg   50.72K   0 downloads

 6D42AF9D-EF73-4F0F-89AA-C7C357707E86.jpeg   52.19K   3 downloads

Trying to work out where to cut the floor to allow me to butt weld it in I marked a point 60mm in from the inboard edge of the sill with a steel rule and transferred that mark back 60mm on top of the floor, held my breath and cut out with a grinder at 45 degrees Fitzee style, this allowed me then to chop a wooden wedge 140mm high and block up the inboard end of the sill until it was flush and tack welded along its length. Not finished yet but not too much to do on the sill itself and the integrity of the shell is almost as it should be.

 D2919754-3CB7-4212-9631-2DF9F604A8D9.jpeg   73.86K   1 downloads

[exuptoy]

Got my SH spot welder from a member on here who had emptied a body shop and this was surplus to requirements. It’s a Clarke CSW6T and I got it for £300 which is ok as they seem to fetch reasonable money so I don’t think I’d lose too much on it.

 34C27B3F-F0FB-4513-BFCA-BEB2434D4D99.jpeg   67.94K   0 downloads

Also started welding up the seam in the floor and grinding it back. Just gonna give the underside a flash over with a grinder and seam seal then Gravitex stonechip. Then I cut out the door brace followed by the seat crossmember. Just in the process of welding up where the crossmember was.

 E3859D8B-7D5D-4ADE-A5FF-F00149930FA4.jpeg   67.5K   0 downloads

 DD9627A7-B36F-40A6-93C4-D368C8E2D5E2.jpeg   56.4K   0 downloads

Edited by exuptoy, 23 October 2020 - 07:36 PM.

[exuptoy]

Prepped the crossmember to stop it rusting and welded it in and gave it all a coat of etch primer to stop it flash rusting.
 D8B9C68A-09AE-4748-8551-398F516F7B37.jpeg   51.16K   0 downloads

 441FFD31-4DDD-455F-BE2F-BC8456341B5A.jpeg   45.25K   0 downloads

 E3B02930-E1ED-4607-9F8C-B53C92B70094.jpeg   48.29K   0 downloads

 E35C7CF8-7DEC-42E0-8784-87570691731B.jpeg   58.7K   1 downloads

 83A5063D-19AA-4B6D-AE97-34E3BC8268C7.jpeg   74.29K   2 downloads

Edited by exuptoy, 23 October 2020 - 04:05 PM.

[exuptoy]

Continuing with the sill/floor repair, got a little more welded towards the front then tried to offer up my m-machine inner arch repair. Not sure what was going on as it was nowhere near, would probably have been better making it myself. However it’s what I had so straightened it out, drew on a few lines and reshaped it until it fit. Also placed a swage line down the centre to try and make it look like it was meant to be. Not perfect but not too bad. Once it’s fully welded I’ll use a hammer and dolly to dress it’s shape a little.

 8601EA41-541C-408F-BCA4-AA6D21138495.jpeg   66.49K   1 downloads

 1A302346-5E13-4E45-8AD7-F9B5C0387415.jpeg   55.81K   2 downloads

 67F515FA-6B56-40B5-BD67-1B0CE003AE8F.jpeg   69.75K   5 downloads

 47725BB0-CB1A-4E36-9D01-2096F114BB43.jpeg   81.38K   6 downloads

Edited by exuptoy, 24 October 2020 - 07:33 PM.