76 replies to this topic

[maystro]

Hi,

 

Well the old gears and chain are off and the new gears and "extra long" German made chain is on.

 

Anyone ever bought a chain which is this long straight out of the box?  Surely I don't have to remove links on a brand new chain which is going to be a pain.  

 

Brad

 

 

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•  new long chain.jpg   45.38K   1 downloads

[timmy850]

There should be 52 links

I saw one on Ausmini forum that looked the same as yours and had 54 links. I’d send it back

[maystro]

Your right Timmy, 

 

Just counted my old chain and it has 52 links and the new chain has 54 links.  Gotta love German quality control ;-(

 

Just rung Minisport and apparently they had a batch of them with the extra links.  

 

Nice how minisport.com.au  keep selling keep selling them and let the customer do the work of finding the faulty chains at their postal expense.  

 

Brad.

[timmy850]

Especially when the previous post I read was in April and they obviously don’t bother checking them...

[maystro]

Really not liking Minsport.com.au now.   

 

Just got my new replacement chain at my postal expense and they sent me a Powertune TD52Germ which is no way near the quality of the IWIS German chain I originally purchased  and which sells for $30 bucks cheaper.  You  can see the spaces in the links are looser.  

 

Has anyone ever used this chain.  I need one in a hurry so should I just install this or wait for the chain I originally purchased?  

 

Thanks

 

Brad

[Spider]

I'm disappointed you are getting the run around like this.

 

Those chains are ~ OK ~, I have used them quite a few times, they last OK, but, they aren't the quality of the IWIS.

 

Can I suggest getting on the blower to Andrew and in a polite way, let him know your unhappy and why and that you'd like their mess sorted at their cost.

 

In the mean time, if you still have the IWIS Chain, find an Industrial Transmission Supplier in Townsville, there's bound to be a few, they'll have the tools to remove the 2 extra links from it.

 

I just did a quick google and NQPT was one that came up. Some of the Bearing suppliers also have the tools too.

[maystro]

Thanks Spider,

 

They are sending me another IWIS chain as soon as they get some in stock which should be tomorrow.  I'm sending these two chains back and getting a refund on one of them so it's all sorted I hope.   

 

I was cleaning down some of my parts for reassembly and noticed the oil thrower has some gouges out of it from where it looks like the chain had been hitting it.   Could this be a source of the noise and what might cause this?  

 

 

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•  oil thrower.jpg   356.01K   4 downloads

[imack]

Thanks Spider,

They are sending me another IWIS chain as soon as they get some in stock which should be tomorrow. I'm sending these two chains back and getting a refund on one of them so it's all sorted I hope.

I was cleaning down some of my parts for reassembly and noticed the oil thrower has some gouges out of it from where it looks like the chain had been hitting it. Could this be a source of the noise and what might cause this?

Is this a joining link in the original chain? If so I suspect it's the longer pins of the joining link that are fouling the oil flinger.

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•  20200930_061904.jpg   19.3K   0 downloads

Edited by imack, 30 September 2020 - 05:27 AM.

[maystro]

Nice observation inspector Imack

 

I think that could be the problem because I had a look at the those two pins on the chain joiner and they do stick out a fair way more than the other links.  

 

I also did a dry run with the new steel gears and I think I'm going to need some extra shims behind the crankshaft cog because it doesn't line up with the camshaft cog.  To do this I'm going to have to remove the crankshaft woodruff key.  Any ideas, anyone how to remove this.  It's pretty secure.  

 

Thanks

 

Brad

[maystro]

I think while I have all these bits out I might upgrade my crankshaft pulley which doesn't look round or balanced.  It's just one of those standard tin type bottom pulleys with no weights or harmonic balancer attached.  

 

I was looking at this unit.

 

https://minisport.co...er-v-belt-romac

 

Will this fit my motor and will I need anything else to make it work?   

ummm spider are you there?

 

Brad

[Spider]

Brad,

 

When checking for alignment (flat-wise) across the 2 sprockets, you need to put the nut on the Cam, just firm by hand will do, and lever the sprocket out gently. There's always some end float on the Cam and when running (and if it's ground properly) it will thrust in this direction as it spins.

The Pressed Steel Pulleys are ~ OK ~ on a 998. If you do want to swap that out, the Romac is a very good choice.

[gazza82]

I also did a dry run with the new steel gears and I think I'm going to need some extra shims behind the crankshaft cog because it doesn't line up with the camshaft cog.  To do this I'm going to have to remove the crankshaft woodruff key.  Any ideas, anyone how to remove this.  It's pretty secure.  

 

If you tap gently on one end the key should swivel up at the other .. sometimes they are very tight though. I had to slightly thin down a new replacement (carefully and gently used a diamond card until it was just thin enough to tap in).

[maystro]

Thanks gazza I can see how that would work to remove the woodruff key seeming it is the shape of a sea saw.  

 

Spider my problem looks like the crankshaft cog needs packing out to align with the camshaft cog.  So if the camshaft has end float it could get worse?  Anyway I ordered 4 more 5 though shims to go with the 2 existing shims.  Does this seem excessive?  Hopefully I don't have  crankshaft free paly if there is such a thing?

 

Brad.

[gazza82]

Don't forget you have some end-float on the crank .. get that right first (thrust washers on centre bearing cap)

 

I found I had a lot of end-float on my new 266 cam when I first fitted it but a brand new triangular plate fixed that so it must have actually been worn .. even though it looked perfectly ok.

 

Once they are correct, then you adjust the gears to be in-line .. I had to take the shims off!

[Spider]

Thanks gazza I can see how that would work to remove the woodruff key seeming it is the shape of a sea saw.  

 

Spider my problem looks like the crankshaft cog needs packing out to align with the camshaft cog.  So if the camshaft has end float it could get worse?  Anyway I ordered 4 more 5 though shims to go with the 2 existing shims.  Does this seem excessive?  Hopefully I don't have  crankshaft free paly if there is such a thing?

 

Brad.

 

I mention that about the Cam Thrusting towards the front of the engine as by fitting your sprocket, you may have moved it in some, so it needs to be moved to it's normal running position when checking.

 

4 - 5 shims (each are 0.005") is fine. I recently had a set that needed about 12 shims ! I made a solid spacer for that.

 

As Gazza also mentioned, you would have some crank end float, it's hard to say where it's natural running position is, but it is usually less than 0.005" (hence why shims as made in 0.005" thickness). If you have a dial gauge you can check it, gently lever the crank from the pulley end in towards the clutch side of the engine, set the dial gauge up and zero it, then put your foot on the clutch and that should move the crank by the amount of end float you have. If you do this and want to take it in to account, I'd suggest using the average between of the end float as a reference point.