76 replies to this topic

[maystro]

Spider I'm no mechanic and my workshop is only a 6x6 garage with the wifeys  car taking up half of it. 

 

I had a freestanding workbench which I just bolted to the wall to accommodate my new Vice which I must say is the best tool I have bought other than my torque wrench.  Oh and lights.  I have hard mounted LED lights and a mobile LED light on a clamp which is the best tool for a 50 year old bloke going blind

 

Anyway getting back to it, I don't have a dial up guage and lucky I don't because I wouldn't have a clue how to use it

 

Thanks 

 

Brad

[Spider]

Fair enough Brad, I wasn't sure just what facilities you have but it does seem you can get your way around your Moke not too badly at getting issues sorted. The very job you are taking on now many would baulk at and you are applying good attention to detail.

 

I put some LED Flood Lights in above the welding bench a couple of years back and they are utterly ACE !

[maystro]

 

When refitting the cover back on, ideally you need a centralising tool to get it in the correct location for the seal to work properly. You can do it without the tool but will need a great deal of care to do so. Offer the cover up with the gasket and sealant on it, put the Harmonic Damper or Pulley on the Crank and that will centraise the cover. The trick is keeping it steady in that spot while getting 2 bolts in without disturbing it from that spot, it is very easy to move it when fitting the bolts.

 

All new double gears and correct length IWIS timing chain which is nice and tight installed along with the Romac harmonic balancer which is a piece of engineering art work.   The motor is running a lot quieter now thankfully, still a slight tapetty noise but I guess that's what you get from an old mini engine?  

The only problem now is I have a slight oil leak from the timing cover gasket, not the crankshaft seal which isn't leaking.  

 

I just re read through Spiders advice and missed the bit about putting gasket sealant on the timing cover......damn it :-(  

So I guess I am pulling the radiator out again and removing that new shiny harmonic balancer again which was a real ******* to fit because the tolerances were so tight.   

 

I've never used gasket sealant so what is the best and do I put it on both sides of the gasket?

 

Thanks

 

Brad

 

[Homersimpson]

Here is a tip also if anyone is doing a timing chain replacement.

Replace the engine mount on the radiator side with a captive nut engine mount.

Have you ever tried to put a spanner on the inside back nut which keeps turning?

Sheesh

At the garage I worked at we always used to puts spot of weld on the nuts on both engine mounts so that they were easier to get on and off.

[maystro]

 

Here is a tip also if anyone is doing a timing chain replacement.

Replace the engine mount on the radiator side with a captive nut engine mount.

Have you ever tried to put a spanner on the inside back nut which keeps turning?

Sheesh

At the garage I worked at we always used to puts spot of weld on the nuts on both engine mounts so that they were easier to get on and off.

 

Sounds like the best thing to do Homer.  That captive nut engine mount I bought from Minisport is a total waste of time.  As soon as you torque it up the pressed flimsy nut just turns.  Now I have to cut off the bolts with a angle grinder and order a descent UK made engine mount.  I will also be doing what you said, but probably just weld a nut on the inner side of the engine mount.  

[Spider]

Nice work mate, getting there with it.

 

The only problem now is I have a slight oil leak from the timing cover gasket, not the crankshaft seal which isn't leaking.  

  

 

I've never used gasket sealant so what is the best and do I put it on both sides of the gasket?

 

Thanks

 

Brad

 

One step forward, one step back.

 

Lately, on Cooperman's recommendations, I've been using Blue Hylomar and been quite happy with it. The sealant I had been using for a very long time was taken over by another company and not nearly as good as it had been for so long.

 

When you take the timing cover off, check the Gasket Face of it with a straight edge or better yet a flat surface, they tend to 'pull up' around the bolts, leaving gaps around much of it. To correct these, I put a round dolly in the vice, that has a diameter that's fits neat in the outside flange space and the gently tap them back down.

 

 

 

Here is a tip also if anyone is doing a timing chain replacement.

Replace the engine mount on the radiator side with a captive nut engine mount.

Have you ever tried to put a spanner on the inside back nut which keeps turning?

Sheesh

At the garage I worked at we always used to puts spot of weld on the nuts on both engine mounts so that they were easier to get on and off.

 

 

Sounds like the best thing to do Homer.  That captive nut engine mount I bought from Minisport is a total waste of time.  As soon as you torque it up the pressed flimsy nut just turns.  Now I have to cut off the bolts with a angle grinder and order a descent UK made engine mount.  I will also be doing what you said, but probably just weld a nut on the inner side of the engine mount.  

 

 

I refit the Bolts from the same side as they were in the factory (from the inside). To get the bolts in, I first line up the holes (a Phillips Screwdriver is handy for doing this) between the Mount and the Subframe and then test the alignment by put a Bolt through from the outside, then put the Bolt in from the inside with this handy tool

 

 

I can then get a Spring Washer and Nut on the outside, then remove the Special Tool. I find I can easily land a 1/2" Open Ended Spanner on the head of the Bolt, from under, and a Ratchet Ring Spanner on the Nut to do them up

 

[maystro]

Lol Spider, I love that special Leyland approved bolt holding tool straight out of the top drawer in the kitchen.

 

Us Aussies are great bush mechanics.  I'm pretty dodgy that is how I probably got myself into this mess in the first place. 

 

I'm thinking about getting a new timing cover because mine has taken a beating in its 40 years of trying to get the pulley off with being a leverage point with a big screw driver. 

 

The standard A timing cover seems to be pretty hard to come by so thinking of getting a A+ plus timing cover.  Will this fit?  I don't want to install the A+ tensioner.  

 

This leads me onto another question about engine numbers.  I think the register has it wrong.  

 

I have a 1981 Moke which had a 998 engine number 99H9050JZ500184 which was a A+ , which I changed out for a fully recond hotted up unit with 12g202 heads engine number 99H791PZ557539 which was also a A+ because I fitted a A+ dizzy with the fork.  

 

Anyway back to my original question, will a A+ timing cover fit on all mini engines and will I need any extra bolts?

 

Thanks

 

Brad

[nicklouse]

Some extra bolts can be used.

[nicklouse]

Also good for the brake clevis pins

[nicklouse]

Some extra bolts can be used.

I should add you will need to use the matching front plate.

[Spider]

 

Some extra bolts can be used.

 

I should add you will need to use the matching front plate.

 

 

It depends on what Front Engine Plate the last guy fitted to it.

If it's an A Type, then yes, to fit the A+ Timing Chain Cover, you'll need to drill a hole (and can't really be done in situ), however, if they left the A+ Front Engine Plate on there, then happy days.

Here's the difference - A on the left, A+ on the right. I've indicated the extra hole

 

 

You could try Darren in Cairns or Matt in Brissy for an A type cover, I'm sure one of them will have one.

 

 

[Spider]

Lol Spider, I love that special Leyland approved bolt holding tool straight out of the top drawer in the kitchen.

 

I'm sure I just make you're wife's hit list.

 

 

I have a 1981 Moke which had a 998 engine number 99H9050JZ500184 which was a A+ , which I changed out for a fully recond hotted up unit with 12g202 heads engine number 99H791PZ557539 which was also a A+ because I fitted a A+ dizzy with the fork. 

 

There's something screwy with the numbers there.

The 99H905 is an engine that was fitted to the Mokes, it was imported from the UK by the factory. I'd need to dig a little further to check if that number was used on the A+ Blocks, I think so, but not 100% sure. These engines had pollution gear on them that was also fitted to those imported to Switzerland, Sweden and one other country that eludes me right now.

 

The 99H791 is an A type 998, that dates from 1974 to 1979, when the A+ was introduced. In the UK, the first series of A+ Engines were 99H997.

I'm just wondering if yours has been re-stamped with a funny number ?
 

You've got me going a bit here, I have to remember where I have all these numbers !

[maystro]

There must be a lot of ol Mokers wives with missing forks

 

Spider something is definitely  screwy with the numbers.  I saw on another forum where some guy had a A+ block and his numbers were 99H791 as well.  He mentioned about a A+ plus dizzy fitting also.  My 99H791 also has the same A+ dizzy and the dip stick tube doesn't have the extension.  

 

My Moke which had the 99H905 engine originally is a December 1981 model so it would have been one of the later Mokes sold.  It did have pollution gear, I still have the charcoal canister.  It was definitely a A+ because it cost me a fortune when I had to replace the  main shaft in the gearbox because apparently it was bigger.  

 

I looked at my engine plate and I cannot see that extra hole so guessing it's a A plate.  I think I will just do some minor panel beating like you said and use some good blue hylomar sealant.  

 

Anyway all is good now, I have a draw full of forks

 

Brad

[Spider]

My Moke which had the 99H905 engine originally is a December 1981 model so it would have been one of the later Mokes sold.  It did have pollution gear, I still have the charcoal canister.  It was definitely a A+ because it cost me a fortune when I had to replace the  main shaft in the gearbox because apparently it was bigger.  

Brad

 

 

Hmmmmm,,,, this is getting more peculiar. From Nov 1979, they omitted the pollution gear from Mokes. They were exempt (and always were) because they are Commercial Vehicles.

 

Here's the Factoyr Press Release - see item 12 at the bottom of the page

 

 

[maystro]

Sorry Spider, I didn't elaborate enough.

 

When I said my 1981 Moke had pollution gear,  I was only talking about having a  charcoal canister which a lot of the hoses vented into.  I didn't have the air pump system.  

 

So this would support your documentation.  

 

Brad