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1998 Mpi Running Issues After Restoration


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#196 leepol83

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Posted 29 December 2020 - 11:51 AM

Thanks I know I need someone that can look locally, I have a diagnosis machine but like you say I don’t really know how to use it!! Ive replaced the engine loom for the original which I know works fine and it was slightly better actually allowing steps to be shown on the machine I think 36 steps at tickover when upto temperature, however that was with the throttle screw right out and not even touching if I wound it in so it slightly opens it shoots up the revs then if I back it off again the revs stay up.
On initial start up it’s all fine looks like it’s when it warms up the revs stick slightly, I must admit it’s abit better since changing the loom I’m thinking I’ll go back through all the earth points as these did initially give me problem as I covered them in raptor stone chip. I always knew it wouldn’t be a quick yes it’s this answer but if anything I’m certainly learning the car 😊

#197 leepol83

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Posted 29 December 2020 - 05:38 PM


looks genuine,... assuming it’ll operate properly if pressure builds up ?
https://www.ebay.co....tm/352495531463

Thanks for youre help

Their Feedback looks good but, as I've said before, EBay can be a lottery.

Got the cap today, came in a sealed packet so looks to be genuine 👍🏻 I’ll give it a go and let you know thanks mate

#198 leepol83

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Posted 31 December 2020 - 03:28 PM

Quick update
Cap works a treat ?
On to the running issue I’ve found it, it’s the inlet manifold gasket, got brave with the brake cleaner and sprayed loads around the inlet gasket and it stalls the engine almost? I’ve shimmed the inlet as it’s thicker than the exhaust or vice versa, it’s better tucknit for a drive and perfect!!! Only thing now is the readings on the machine, at the moment I’ve got it sat at 35/36 steps which idles a little high, if I adjust any lower it goes to 0 assuming this is because I’ve still got a slight leak on the inlet and the Ecu is compensating for the extra air does that make sense ????
Thank you

#199 tmsmini

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Posted 31 December 2020 - 04:11 PM

I think it it more like with the leak the IACV is out of its range to manage idle and any additional air causes the idle to rise.

 

The standard MPi manifold gasket should do the job. Does this engine have the standard exhaust manifold or an LCB? The standard inlet and exhaust should be very close in thickness and the MPi style manifold nuts should work well without shimming.



#200 leepol83

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Posted 31 December 2020 - 04:25 PM

I think it it more like with the leak the IACV is out of its range to manage idle and any additional air causes the idle to rise.

The standard MPi manifold gasket should do the job. Does this engine have the standard exhaust manifold or an LCB? The standard inlet and exhaust should be very close in thickness and the MPi style manifold nuts should work well without shimming.


It’s got an LCB which after researching realised they could be different thicknesses which I’m guessing is the case, they look the same but cut some washers down and slid them down one side of the inlet manifold but obviously not worked completely, they look the same so don’t really know how to seal it, I’ve done the bolts up literally as tight as possible but still leaks

#201 leepol83

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Posted 01 January 2021 - 05:48 PM

Quick update
Removed old manifold gasket and replaced with new one
Stepped the washers slightly (wasn’t a lot at all)
Still the same it’s 100 percent leaking if I stick my hand over the throttle body I can get the steps on the IACV perfect, when I release they go to 0 steps, sprayed around gasket and not as bad but does change tone!
I’m well stuck now any tips on getting a good seal or possible issues there could be.
I must say I’m extremely disappointed in a well known mini supplier as they have supplied this manifold and caused me these issues!!! And doing some research they are well aware of the problem 😡

And forgot to mention spent an hour scraping of the genuine rover mpi gasket from the head, is this normal ? My last one didn’t stick like this one did

Edited by leepol83, 01 January 2021 - 06:13 PM.


#202 leepol83

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Posted 01 January 2021 - 06:11 PM

I know people say don’t use sealant but been researching abit and there are a few out there that look ok, found this one :-

GREY PRO RTV INSTANT GASKET MAKER & SEALANT SENSOR SAFE HIGH TEMP CAR ENGINE
Specially designed for high torque, high vibration applications such as import engines. It makes reliable “formed-in-place” gaskets that resist cracking, shrinking and migration caused by thermal cycling. It is permanently flexible and stable at temperature of between -80oF to +625oF (-62oC to +330oC) intermittent.
100gsm
---Highly resistant to auto and shop fluids
---Guaranteed No Leak
---Low Odor & Non Corrosive
---Excellent Oil Resistant
---Sensor-safe

What do people think 🤔 I am desperate now 😂
Thinking just a little on the gasket

Edited by leepol83, 01 January 2021 - 06:11 PM.


#203 pete l

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Posted 04 January 2021 - 02:50 PM

I wouldn't use a liquid gasket, don't forget you are right next to the exhaust outlets that get VERY hot.

 

I would measure the thickness of the exhaust flange and the inlet manifold flange and get some offset washers / spacers made up.


Edited by pete l, 04 January 2021 - 02:51 PM.


#204 leepol83

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Posted 04 January 2021 - 04:41 PM

I wouldn't use a liquid gasket, don't forget you are right next to the exhaust outlets that get VERY hot.

I would measure the thickness of the exhaust flange and the inlet manifold flange and get some offset washers / spacers made up.


Thanks mate already tried that I’ve got spacered washers on there at the moment although not as bad as it was still letting air in, somethings a miss 🤷‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤯

#205 pete l

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Posted 05 January 2021 - 08:11 AM

Yes but are they precise ?

 

A mm too thin on the inlet manifold side and you might get an air leak. You have to measure the flanges precisely with some kind of micrometer.

 

Can you put the original exhaust manifold back on ???



#206 leepol83

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Posted 05 January 2021 - 02:59 PM

Yes but are they precise ?

A mm too thin on the inlet manifold side and you might get an air leak. You have to measure the flanges precisely with some kind of micrometer.

Can you put the original exhaust manifold back on ???

Unfortunately I have sold the old one to find the new one🙈

#207 leepol83

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Posted 09 January 2021 - 02:53 PM

I’ve another thread on the manifold going but thought I’d show you this 99 percent sure this is my problem!!!

https://youtu.be/cp0jbagrNYo
https://youtu.be/bELZMFcwqTw
https://youtu.be/U-m586RmXzI

Also I’ve taken the IACV and 90 off the manifold so it’s in my hand now, if I attach the pipe and plug the hole with my finger and blow it blows out of the top where the electrical plug pushes on, is this right, it’s brand new from Minispares?

Edited by leepol83, 09 January 2021 - 02:59 PM.


#208 leepol83

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Posted 10 January 2021 - 02:35 PM

Any thought on this 🤔😉

Edited by leepol83, 10 January 2021 - 02:35 PM.


#209 pete l

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Posted 11 January 2021 - 01:40 PM

Doesn't look like you'd get a good seal with that gap !!!

 

I've just flattened an inlet manifold for my ZR. I taped a sheet of wet n dry on a flat piece of wood (IKEA kitchen cupboard door) and just rubbed the inlet manifold over it until it was flat.



#210 leepol83

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Posted 11 January 2021 - 05:03 PM

Doesn't look like you'd get a good seal with that gap !!!

I've just flattened an inlet manifold for my ZR. I taped a sheet of wet n dry on a flat piece of wood (IKEA kitchen cupboard door) and just rubbed the inlet manifold over it until it was flat.

I did think something like that, I’ve dropped it off at a machine shop to see what they can do.




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