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How Much Resistance Should Flywheel Bolt Have When Tightening


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#16 babsbrown

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Posted 19 December 2020 - 09:03 AM

Hi guys, a little update, I ordered the correct Tap and a new flywheel bolt. I'm going to try the new bolt, but if this starts becoming stiff, I will then run the tap down. I'm not sure the history of the clutch and flywheel really. I've had the car 16 years, and never had to change the clutch, so it could possibly be the original. There was no sign of loctite. Even though I used the protective cap on the flywheel puller, I'm thinking the first couple of threads have been chewed up a little. The bolt looked fine really. Just worries me as it's such a vital bolt to be on correctly!!

#17 babsbrown

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Posted 20 December 2020 - 10:47 PM

So I've run the tap down the crank, but surprisingly it's still very stiff. I'm making the 1/2-full turn clockwise followed by a 1/4 to 1/2 turn anticlockwise and repeating. As I was taught many years ago at school. Having looked at the tap and threads there are no actual sign of any swarf or fillings even suggesting that the thread is being cleaned or retapped. The tap travels all but four threads into the end of the crank and that would appear to be equal to the amount of thread that th bolt would occupy once tightened. I'm wondering if it's perhaps possible that the threads within the crankshaft are just that tight having been cut that way from the factory? I'm tempted to reassemble everything with loctite and see if it will torque up to the correct settings .

#18 Ethel

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Posted 20 December 2020 - 10:55 PM

The taper will do most of the holding, the only issue I see with the threads is squeezing the flywheel on to the taper far enough before you hit the specified torque.



#19 babsbrown

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Posted 20 December 2020 - 11:04 PM

Ah yes, thanks, I didn't really think about the taper. Having examined the bolt with the keyway washer underneath it appears that the whole bolt would be engaged in the threads. But as you say once the torque is reached, whether it holds is the problem. I was tempted to run the tap down further but the resistance became that great that I backed It out because I was worried it may snap.

#20 Ethel

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Posted 21 December 2020 - 01:54 AM

Can't see that you could do much more. Winding the bolt  half way in, then lubing the remaining threads could test your theory that the threads just inside the nose of the crank are the cause. 



#21 Spider

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Posted 21 December 2020 - 04:11 AM

Fit the Lockwasher to the Tail of the Crank without the Flywheel, then run the Bolt in by hand. If it goes all the way to the Washer, then you have plenty of Thread. When the Flywheel is added, there's a 3 - 4 mm step down to the face of the crank tail, so you have that up your sleeve.



#22 babsbrown

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Posted 21 December 2020 - 09:13 AM

Thanks guys I will try that tonight. I'm also tempted to cover the bolt in loctite 243 or even 270 to prevent any vibrational loosening

#23 Spider

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Posted 21 December 2020 - 09:21 AM

Thanks guys I will try that tonight. I'm also tempted to cover the bolt in loctite 243 or even 270 to prevent any vibrational loosening

 

I no longer use the locktabs, I stopped about 10 year back. I only use 243 and find the bolt still locked tight when I have to undo them. Just be sure both threads are clean of grease and other crud. I use paint thinners to clean them.



#24 babsbrown

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Posted 21 December 2020 - 09:45 AM

Great, I will try that then on reassembly! Hopefully it all goes to plan. Fingers crossed

#25 babsbrown

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Posted 23 December 2020 - 11:41 AM

Well another issue has arisen . The keyway washer just doesn't seem to fit in the crank end with the flywheel on. I understand the flywheel and crank has an offset to prevent timing issues. When placing the washer in the end it fits fine in the flywheel but somehow It doesn't feel like this is engaging the crank. Evident also by the fact that when I tighten the bolt the keyway just starts spinning around despite my efforts to lock the washer in place

#26 GraemeC

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Posted 23 December 2020 - 02:32 PM

Are you saying it doesn’t reach the slot or that it doesn’t fit the slot?

 

if the flywheel isn’t sitting on far enough check the c washer hasn’t slipped and is stopping it.

 

Obviosuly you can check the second by trying it without the flywheel in place - maybe either the slot or the washer is slightly burred and a file would fix that.



#27 babsbrown

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Posted 23 December 2020 - 03:24 PM

Yes it's perculiar, it feel as though it doesn't go deep enough. It was just wondering whether they could be anything I missed. I will definitely check the c clip again. Having never really changed the clutch before I wanted to ensure everything I did everything properly. Probably making me over cautious.

#28 Spider

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Posted 23 December 2020 - 04:52 PM

I think some photos at this point would be handy.



#29 babsbrown

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Posted 28 December 2020 - 11:34 PM

Cool,here is the end of the crank with the key way washer In as far as I can push it. It now locks the flywheel in place after a quick tickle with the file. It just seems like there's still a little gap.

#30 babsbrown

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Posted 28 December 2020 - 11:39 PM

.Attached File  IMG_20201228_220419.jpg   21.88K   7 downloads




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