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What Mini For Me?


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#31 Cooperman

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Posted 20 January 2021 - 12:36 PM

Like all old classic cars, Minis do need a lot of on-going maintenance and repairs. Unless an owner has a high disposable income, then the ability to do the work will cause problems. 

The good news is that we are all on here to help and advise. In fact, you won't find a better source of technical assistance which goes from simple jobs like changing suspension ball joints to full engine and gearbox rebuilds. 

The main thing is to buy a rust-free car (if you can really find one). The mechanical work is generally far less expensive and easier to do.

To give an example, when  my Grandson was 16 he wanted a Mini as his first road car. he found a 1997 MPI and we went to see it. The vendor said it had no rust issues, just a few light surface bubbles. Of course, after all my years with Minis we knew better, but we bought he car after negotiating the price well down and paying in cash. It's surprising how waving £50 notes around can reduce the asking price!

To make the car in top condition we had to carry out a comprehensive body rebuild. This included new wings, front panel, A-panels, one door skin, new inner and outer sills and a rear valence. They had all loked fine at first glance, but investigation showed the extent of the corrosion. The panels cost around £500, our labour cost nothing and a professional re-paint, done by a good friend, cost £1200 (he owed me a few favours).

We took the engine out and did a refresh, fitted a new diff pin and layshaft bearings, rebuilt the suspension and stripped and rebuilt the brake callipers. 

My grandson used the car after he passed his driving test for around 10 months, but he got fed up with having to do so much on-going servicing and sold it (for a profit) to a friend who lives near me.  He bought a Fiesta 1.25 Zetec which was much better for daily driving and never seemed to need anythig doing except an oil change every 10,000 miles, unlike a Mini which needs an oil change every 3000 miles max.

Grandson now has a 1986 Mini Mayfiar which is almost fully restored and is sitting in my workshop undergoing final re-assemble. Because we have done all the work ourselves, the resto cost is currently running at c.£1500, but that includes all the paint for respraying and all the new body panels. It is being restored as a Mk.1 Cooper 998 tribute.

Minis are great to own and drive, but be aware of the skills or money needed to keep one on the road.  There have been some nightmare stories on here from enthusiasts who have bought what looked like a good Mini, only to have to do a comprehensive body rebuild plus an engine and/or gearbox rebuild which has cost, literally, thoudands of pounds.

Remember, a Mini was designed over 60 years ago. It is, however, a fantastic and iconic car.

Good luch with your search for a good one. 



#32 addoaddo

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Posted 20 January 2021 - 01:40 PM

I am in a very similar situation to the original poster. Now looking for a early 80 model which would be similar to one we had 20 years ago and sold.

I fully understand the mechanics of the car and can fix anything in this area but have not done any welding before. If I was to make a mistake buy a car that I thought was OK what would the cost be of a full body rebuild assuming that I took out all the necessary parts and put them back in. I understand this is like asking how long a piece of string is but for example how much would it cost to replace inner and outer sills, inner wings .

 

This will help we budget a reserve when looking at the cars. 



#33 Fab

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Posted 20 January 2021 - 01:41 PM

Thanks for the detail insight! I should definitely keep that in mind. I'm driving a 25 year old truck daily, but it's an indestructible Toyota so I should probably lower my expectations on "old" cars reliability  :D



#34 Cooperman

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Posted 20 January 2021 - 02:12 PM

When buying any old classic, always expect that some work will be needed sooner rather than later. Allow a sensible amount of cash for the necessary tools and parts, plus th time to do the work.

I think someone did post a basic list of tools required to keep a classic Mini going, plus the special tools neded for certain jobs such as ball-joint replacement, cylinder hear overhaul, etc.

A good example is the need to grease the suspension about every 300 miles. No modern non-lube bushes/bearings on an old Mini.

Also needed are an oil drain tray and an oil filter removal strap/chain. Yopu'l find a trolley-jack almost vital and a good socket set in Imperial sizes plus the usual sets of spanners (Imperial sizes), screwdrivers, feeler gauges, etc.



#35 62S

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Posted 21 January 2021 - 04:56 PM

Overseas built cars such as the Innocenti and much rarer, at least in the UK Authi tend to be so much better value than UK cars. 1275cc Cooper versions of both were available until the mid 1970's and have the advantage, in terms of driving experience, of having the solid twin bolt mounted front subframe.

 

There was an Authi Cooper that was in the UK on Car & Classic for ages at less than £10k, the main problem with an Authi is that no one knows what it is.



#36 Fab

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Posted 28 March 2021 - 09:55 AM

I'm back :)  and starting some more serious search... was able to try a Mini this week, some nice stuff, some less... beginning 80s automatic 1000, drives nicely and the gearbox is surprisingly smooth, wondering about a few things though:

What do you think of those outer sills? (attached) Seem to be oversills, not vented, with some rust... should i walk away? 

 

Brakes are quite weak, wondering how expensive that can get (unable to judge if that needs a full line change) ?

 

The duct on the air temperature control (i think?) is gone, easy fix but wondering if that can be the symptom for something else?

 

Cheers

Attached Files


Edited by Fab, 28 March 2021 - 10:07 AM.


#37 Haynes

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Posted 28 March 2021 - 10:30 AM

The glimpses from those pics show a car in very poor condition.

Edited by Haynes, 28 March 2021 - 10:31 AM.


#38 sonscar

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Posted 28 March 2021 - 10:44 AM

The sills are the beginning of a wold of pain( unless very cheap and automatics have their own problems)I would walk away.Steve..

#39 cal844

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Posted 28 March 2021 - 01:08 PM

Walk away

drum brakes, oversills that are crusty and other things. That car needs a full restoration

#40 Bungleaio

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Posted 28 March 2021 - 03:46 PM

Lack of garage will cause the most issues as the weather will attack the body. They are no different to what they have ever been though and many of them lived their lives outside, it’s just a case of keeping on top of maintenance.

They are a very old design and even the newest of cars is over 20 years old so they will be temperamental. I go to Europe on my bike without a thought but I don’t even go to the local supermarket without a decent tool kit in the mini

#41 Cooperman

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Posted 28 March 2021 - 06:27 PM

From what is shown, I don't think I would want to pay more than around £1400 for that.

It will need new outer sills and almost certainly new inner sills and jacking points.

With the sills like that one might wonder about the A-panels, front wings, inside the rear companion boxes/lower 1/4-panel, boot floor, rear valence and, of course, the door skins.

The brakes may need some repairs/replacement and then a possible full re-paint.

Be very careful.

Unfortunately the really good cars with nothing in particular needing doing are big money these days. It seems unlikely that such a car could be bought for under around £6000 these days. Yes, some are advertised at lkess and as 'top condition', but each time I've seen one of those it needs some basic work.

It all depends on how much you are prepared to pay and how much work you will be happy to do yourself.



#42 Fab

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Posted 29 March 2021 - 10:02 AM

Thanks everyone, it's sad to hear but also good to hear it now. These sills were sketchy to me, now for reference would anyone have a picture of what kind of sills I should expect in the 6000 range? Also, wouldn't it be possible to hide rust behind brand new sills?

 

@Cooperman for this one I'm looking on the more convenient side of things (for an 80s car), so like recommended earlier I'd certainly go for the safer choice rather than the best spec.

 

 

Lack of garage will cause the most issues as the weather will attack the body. They are no different to what they have ever been though and many of them lived their lives outside, it’s just a case of keeping on top of maintenance.

They are a very old design and even the newest of cars is over 20 years old so they will be temperamental. I go to Europe on my bike without a thought but I don’t even go to the local supermarket without a decent tool kit in the mini

 

Is it that bad? I own a 95 Toyota truck, and of course it's a Toyota + much more modern design so I don't expect anything near as bulletproof as that, but there are plenty of cars from the 80s that seems reasonably quiet. Rust aside (plenty of cars from the time also have rust problems), is the classic Mini especially unreliable compared to its peers of the same era?



#43 Spherix

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Posted 29 March 2021 - 10:50 AM

That all depends on maintenance. I've had multiple Minis that struggeled to get from one traffic light to the next, but once I had one that I completely rebuilt the suspension, engine and electronics off, I happily enjoyed it for thousands of kms without a single breakdown.

As Minis used to be cheap cars, maintenance wasnt on everyones mind or wallet, so they tend to be in mediocre state.

#44 Haynes

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Posted 30 March 2021 - 10:00 AM

We are so used to modern cars where you jump in and do 1000s of miles without a thought to maintenance.

 

With a mini, even a fully restored one there will always be constant fettling, regular oil changes for a start.  Suspension parts like ball joints need tweaking.  But if you get a bad one, as soon as you fix one thing the next thing goes.  I bought a project car with my son, it looked ok on the outside, had a full mot but by the next mot it failed badly.  It had a full engine build, loads of welding, new brakes etc etc, its had a load of electrical problems, but at least my son can now change a head gasket unsupervised now.

 

The other problem is spare parts, theyre just not as goods as oem stuff.  Half the parts you change / renew you have to do again within a year.  

 

The main problem though is corrosion.  If it looks just a little rusty on the bits you can see then its certainly very rusty on the bits you cant, the only way to sort it is strip it to a shell, weld it up with new metal.  They it'll need paint, which all adds to the cost and time.  If you go to a reputable specialist there could be a years wait to even start the work.

 

Not trying to be negative just realistic.  Get the best shell you can afford and get the spanners out!



#45 Maccmike8

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Posted 30 March 2021 - 10:38 AM

Agree entirely, buy on bodywork condition.

 

 

 

Not trying to be negative just realistic.  Get the best shell you can afford and get the spanners out!






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