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Head Replacement


Best Answer Jaffamini , 02 April 2021 - 03:07 PM

Hi thanks all for your suggestions, checked everything and found dizzy to be out, timming way out. Don't get why as I never touched that. Still running now, sweet as a nut. Regards kevin Go to the full post


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#16 sonikk4

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Posted 08 March 2021 - 09:54 AM

OP, please check before you post another thread about the same problem twice.

 

I have merged the two posts together.



#17 Cooperman

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Posted 08 March 2021 - 05:03 PM

Could there be a hairline crack in the dizzy cap?
I still think the leads are going to the wrong plugs.

#18 Jaffamini

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Posted 08 March 2021 - 06:17 PM

Hi all thanks for your comments, it run before ok but had black smoke, to much fuel I was told. Set tappets at 15 all the same.

#19 MiniMadRacer

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Posted 08 March 2021 - 06:27 PM

Should the tappets not be 12... though 15 would not stop it running



#20 steeley

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Posted 08 March 2021 - 06:52 PM

Check plug leads like cooperman said

Firing order is 1342

Leads in dizzy cap should be 1342 in a counterclockwise direction

Number 1 spark plug is nearest fan then 2,3,4 going towards the clutch

#21 Spider

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Posted 08 March 2021 - 07:21 PM

I have to agree with many suggestions others have made - I'm almost certain that you have the leads on in the wrong order.

 

Assume nothing, check everything.

Take No. 1 plug out and rocker cover off. Put it in 3rd or 4th gear, rock the car until you have No. 1 piston close to TDC, just look is good enough. Check the Rockers for No. 1, if they have play, then no. 1 should be firing, if they are tight (assuming they have been set), No. 4 will be firing.

Take the Distributor Cap off and see where the Rotor is pointing, then compare that to your lead for that cylinder, then sort the others working in an anti-clockwise direction.

Even if there was something very seriously wrong with the engine, if it as Richmond Classics suggested, has spark and fuel, at the very least it will pop, kick back or some other indication that combustion is occurring.



#22 richmondclassicsnorthwales

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Posted 09 March 2021 - 11:07 AM

You mention changing the points etc.

 

There is a little  2 inch low tension wire that runs from the distributor body to the base plate - normally sits under the condenser, check that.

 

These can literally give up the ghost instantaneously, happened on me once causing the same problem you are having. 



#23 Lplus

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Posted 09 March 2021 - 02:36 PM

Hi all thanks for your comments, it run before ok but had black smoke, to much fuel I was told. Set tappets at 15 all the same.

Too rich before and now the plugs are wet.  It could be flooded.  We don't know what carb you have, but could the float valve be stuck open?  If so it could be pouring fuel straight into the intake.
 



#24 MiniMadRacer

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Posted 09 March 2021 - 02:43 PM

Fair point above about flooding maybe, and off topic slightly but I know BMWs (modern fuel injected ones) if they get flooded and suffer bore wash they are a pain to start as they lose compression easily once the oil is washed off the bores by the petrol... admittedly this is modern synthetic oil with the consistency of water but all the same, might be an idea to take the plugs out, let the bores dry to air , put a spooon full of oil in each bore and spin it over, then replace the plugs and try to start it again...one small tip to restart a flooded motor is undo the black cap on the Carb....fire it up and once running screw the cap back in properly..this allows loads of air in, which can help start a flooded motor initially



#25 Jaffamini

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Posted 09 March 2021 - 08:40 PM

Hi thanks hopefully will check all at the weekend. Kevin

#26 Cooperman

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Posted 09 March 2021 - 10:11 PM

Get a can of 'Easy Start'. Even if it is flooded it will start so long as it has both compression and a spark at the right time. If you have compressions of the figure you state it will not be valve clearances causing the issue.

 

Proceed as follows:

 

Remove the plugs, clean them and check the gaps at 0.025". Take off the rocker cover and bring cylinders 1 & 4 to TDC. Check which cylinder is at compression stroke. The tappets will both have a small clearance, whilst the ones on the other TDC cylinder will be 'tight'.

 

Take off the dizzy cap and note where the rotor arm is pointing. Now look in the cap and identify the lead coming from the point in the cap where the rotor arm is pointing. That is the firing cylinder and the plug lead from that point must go to that cylinder. Re-fit the cap and connect the lead. The remainder of the leads go in the sequence 1-3-4-2 anti-clockwise on the cap. Thus, if No.4 is firing, the next lead anti-clock will go to plug no.2, then the next one to 1, then the next one to 3.

 

With a plug out and connected, check for a healthy spark. It should now start, but a squirt of easy start first, directly into the carb will almost guarantee it. Once it runs, switch off and re-fit the rocker cover immediately.



#27 Jaffamini

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Posted 11 March 2021 - 07:39 PM

Thanks I will go through your check list the week end. Kevin

#28 sky gipsy

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Posted 12 March 2021 - 07:18 AM

You mention changing the points etc.

 

There is a little  2 inch low tension wire that runs from the distributor body to the base plate - normally sits under the condenser, check that.

 

These can literally give up the ghost instantaneously, happened on me once causing the same problem you are having. 

Oh tell me about that wire!

I replaced the cracked head on an MGA a while ago, to find it would not start.  Went through all the things to check I hadn't done anything wrong, only to find that the wire in question had lost the will to live during the head swap!



#29 Jaffamini

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Posted 28 March 2021 - 02:40 PM

Hi I have a ducellier dizzy dose it still have the same 2" wire.

#30 Jaffamini

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Posted 28 March 2021 - 02:44 PM

Hi can any one tell me the size of the screw that holds the points in place, and were to get one. Mine is stripped,think points may be moving. Kevin




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