55 replies to this topic

[maystro]

Hi Guy's

 

Ok I am doing the final fit for my new Quaife diff and I've been told it requires some minimal machining to make it fit.  It looks like it clears everything in the gearbox side of the case but looks like it might foul on the diff cover.   Is this correct?  

 

Anyway I have supplied a photo of where I have coloured in purple to show where I think the bits are going to be needed to be removed. 

 

Does this look right? 

 

Thanks Brad

 

   Quaife diff cover changes.jpg   37.56K   0 downloads

 

[Spider]

(I've merged your thread with your earlier thread)

I usually find the clear the case OK, just 1 to 3 places in the cap that need a touch with the die grinder, in that area you've marked, you can see the bosses for the bolt hole threads, they don't need much off and don't go ape or you'll break through in to the hole. It's probably not the end of the world if you do, but you'll need to seal up the bolt when fitting to stop it leaking oil from there.

[maystro]

Thanks Chris,

 

Ok small steps I think with the Dremel?  

 

Brad

[Spider]

Thanks Chris,

 

Ok small steps I think with the Dremel?  

 

Brad

 

That's always best mate. Treat it like you would your missus - don't rush it

[KTS]

 

Thanks Chris,

 

Ok small steps I think with the Dremel?  

 

Brad

 

That's always best mate. Treat it like you would your missus - don't rush it

 

 

..and don't forget your PPE 

[The Principal]

I have one fitted, driven on the road for the last 8years only ever had it grip the steering once, they are good......very good

[growlerbearnz]

I'm interested in hearing your first impressions when you've got it up and running. 

[maystro]

(I've merged your thread with your earlier thread)

I usually find the clear the case OK, just 1 to 3 places in the cap that need a touch with the die grinder, in that area you've marked, you can see the bosses for the bolt hole threads, they don't need much off and don't go ape or you'll break through in to the hole. It's probably not the end of the world if you do, but you'll need to seal up the bolt when fitting to stop it leaking oil from there.

Hi Guy's

 

Well I got the dremel out and tried to grind off the offending metal from the diff case.  I don't want to grind off any more because if I do I think I will puncture through the boss area where one of the bolts anchor in.  
The Quaife diff fits in nice as long as I preload the diff bearings with shims on the non crown wheel side.  Would this cause any drama's?  Everyone usually doses the shims on the crown wheel side?

 

 Quaife diff cover changes1.jpg   33.17K   1 downloads

 

Another question while I have your attention knowledgeable people?  

 

I am changing my crown wheel and pinion to a higher ratio so I have to some how get that nut off the main shaft which is torqued to 150lbs.  Their is suppose to be a trick where you pull your gear selector shaft out then rotate it so you can lock in 2 gears at a time. 

This trick doesn't seem to work on my A+ box, any ideas?

 

Thanks Brad 

[imack]

I shimmed my quaife from the flywheel end, not for clearance issues but to give better crownwheel and pinion alignment when using a straight cut crownwheel and pinion which has wider tooth widths.
Not haad any problems doing it this way.
I think plate type diffs are shimmed fro flywheel end for the reasons you mention.

[KTS]

 

Another question while I have your attention knowledgeable people?  

 

I am changing my crown wheel and pinion to a higher ratio so I have to some how get that nut off the main shaft which is torqued to 150lbs.  Their is suppose to be a trick where you pull your gear selector shaft out then rotate it so you can lock in 2 gears at a time. 

This trick doesn't seem to work on my A+ box, any ideas?

 

Thanks Brad 

 

 

you've removed the selector shaft detente spring/sleeve/ball bearing from the side of the diff housing ?

 

if so, you should be able to rotate the selector shaft so the lugs are free of the forks.  pull it rearward as far as it will go then you should be able move the synchro hubs independently to engage 1st gear and 4th gear

 

watch out when engaging 4th gear though, with the selector shaft disengaged the 3rd/4th synchro hub can overshoot releasing the springs & ball bearings - a real pain to get them all back in with the mainshaft in place.  put some kind of block between the synchro hub and the case to stop it moving too far 

 

disengaged it'll look like this

 

Edited by KTS, 05 June 2021 - 11:34 AM.

[maystro]

 

 

Another question while I have your attention knowledgeable people?  

 

I am changing my crown wheel and pinion to a higher ratio so I have to some how get that nut off the main shaft which is torqued to 150lbs.  Their is suppose to be a trick where you pull your gear selector shaft out then rotate it so you can lock in 2 gears at a time. 

This trick doesn't seem to work on my A+ box, any ideas?

 

Thanks Brad 

 

 

you've removed the selector shaft detente spring/sleeve/ball bearing from the side of the diff housing ?

 

if so, you should be able to rotate the selector shaft so the lugs are free of the forks.  pull it rearward as far as it will go then you should be able move the synchro hubs independently to engage 1st gear and 4th gear

 

watch out when engaging 4th gear though, with the selector shaft disengaged the 3rd/4th synchro hub can overshoot releasing the springs & ball bearings - a real pain to get them all back in with the mainshaft in place.  put some kind of block between the synchro hub and the case to stop it moving too far 

 

 

Hi KTS,

 

I removed the spring and taped up the hole so I wouldn't lose the ball bearing.  Leaving this in, would that stop me being able to disengage the gear selector rod totally?

 

Brad

[KTS]

quite possibly - just added a picture to my previous post to show just how far back the selector shaft assembly needs to move to keep it clear of the selector forks

 

if it's not drawn all the way back the selector forks can jam against the shaft, and they're surprisingly difficult to free them off when that happens 

 

edit:  just noticed you haven't said if you removed the steel sleeve with the detente spring;  the sleeve has to come out to

Edited by KTS, 05 June 2021 - 11:44 AM.

[stoneface]

you need to remove item 12, 13, 14 and 15 on the link below

http://www.minispare...ive.aspx?1~4~42

Removing just the spring will not work

[maystro]

Thanks KTS,

My rod selector never slides that far out of the box. I haven't removed any sleeve from where the detent spring presides. Is this what you are talking about?

Thanks Brad

[maystro]

you need to remove item 12, 13, 14 and 15 on the link below
http://www.minispare...ive.aspx?1~4~42
Removing just the spring will not work