37 replies to this topic

[gaspen]

Hello

 

Short question here : the holes at the ends of the lower linkage must be parrallel to each other ?

 

I had to drill new holes, now they are in a very slight angle to each other. I believe this is the reason of very hard gearhift to 1st an 2nd.

 

 

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[Spider]

The do need to be on the same plane, if they are off, the Gearstick will tend to sit at a different angle to normal, either towards the Driver or Passenger, depending on which way it's off. Also, a small angle change here can make a big apparent angle change to the Gearstick. It could be the cause of the shift issue, however, before diving in too deep, I'd suggest taking the bottom plate off the Shifter Housing and seeing how it feels without it. If it improves, then it's likely the plate was fitted back on the wrong way around. The Ramp on the cover should be fitted back on such that it's biased towards the Left side of the Housing.

[gaspen]

The do need to be on the same plane, if they are off, the Gearstick will tend to sit at a different angle to normal, either towards the Driver or Passenger, depending on which way it's off. Also, a small angle change here can make a big apparent angle change to the Gearstick. It could be the cause of the shift issue, however, before diving in too deep, I'd suggest taking the bottom plate off the Shifter Housing and seeing how it feels without it. If it improves, then it's likely the plate was fitted back on the wrong way around. The Ramp on the cover should be fitted back on such that it's biased towards the Left side of the Housing.

 

Thanks Spider

 

I believe the bottom plate fitted on the correct way but I'll check it once more.

 

I dismantled the whole unit, welded up one hole in the rod, re-drill it, now the holes are "in-line". As we have metric units here the diamater is 6 mm  and I have 6 mm roll pins.

 

Also replaced the nylon "ball" on the lower end of the lever, I found a new one on the old gear lever.

 

Checked the angles on the rod eye, it also looks good.

 

I reassembled it with an M6 screw at the coupling piece, because it is easier to remove if must. The M6 screws fits a little loose there, and the gear shifting seemed good.

 

After that I removed the screw and hammering in the roll pin and the whole lever became very tight 

 

It seems that I have to leave some play on the front hole of the rod (?)

[Ethel]

Isn't the pin only supposed to be a tight fit in the yoke? A small amount of free play at the ends of the rod will allow it float & reduce friction. It'd make a decent lever so it wouldn't take much side load at one end to be quite a force at the other.

[gaspen]

Isn't the pin only supposed to be a tight fit in the yoke? A small amount of free play at the ends of the rod will allow it float & reduce friction. It'd make a decent lever so it wouldn't take much side load at one end to be quite a force at the other.

 

After some days of fiddling I think it so too 

 

I found a mistake in my own work. Black is the coupling, red is the rod, green is the roll pin. Guess which one I've done   Of course I repaired it, now it is good. Indeed.

 

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Before I installed the engine to the car I fitted the gear selector to it and it worked fine, I could select all gears, even without clutch. Now I can not imagine what gone wrong. 

 

One thing that I noticed : if I remove the gear lever I can reach the rod eye in the housing. Only by hand I can rotate it more than with the gear lever. I don't know if it's count or not.

 

With the pedal depressed I can select 1st or 2nd with lots of effort. Once the gear is selected the effort is gone, it is like a dream.

 

When the pedal released and depressed again  everything starts over 

 

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[Spider]

As it seems you are already on to and as Ethel alluded to, the Coupling to the Gearbox Input Shift Shaft is a poor mans universal joint.

Noted you feel you've fitted the bottom plate back on the right way around. Another way to check is there's a funny shaped hole in the plate and that goes towards the front. If I can suggest here, even though you feel you've put it on the right way, removing it all the same and trying again. Keep an open mind about any possibility and assume nothing.

Is the effort / stiffness in the fore and aft movements or side to side ?

Once say in 1st, is it easy or hard to the go to 2nd ?  And viki-verka ?

I take it the engine is now fitted and you've been driving the car. Has it been like this from the outset or developed over a while since ?

[gaspen]

Is the effort / stiffness in the fore and aft movements or side to side ?

 

Only fore and aft. Selecting 3rd, 4th and reverse is easy, I mean normal. 

 

 

Once say in 1st, is it easy or hard to the go to 2nd ?

 

It is still hard to get 2nd. But once I got 2nd, it is easier to select 1st.

 

 

I take it the engine is now fitted and you've been driving the car. Has it been like this from the outset or developed over a while since ?

 

Yes I drove the car in the area (don't have MOT yet) The issue is present from the beginning. Once I can depart I can drive it relatively normal but when I stop getting 1st is a nightmare. That's why I don't want to drive for MOT anywhere.

 

 

I rebuilt the engine and gearbox by myself. I had to change some parts (syncro, reverse idler etc...)  I followed the Haynes and other tutorials carefully while assembling. 

 

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[Spider]

Starting to narrow it down a bit now.

 

Have you disconnected the Shift Linkage from the Gearbox and see how it feels when operating the Shift Input Shaft directly ?  If you put a No. 1 Phillips Driver through the hole of the Roll Pin, you should be able to shift through the Gears. Go through them all so you can compare.

[gaspen]

Starting to narrow it down a bit now.

 

Have you disconnected the Shift Linkage from the Gearbox and see how it feels when operating the Shift Input Shaft directly ?  If you put a No. 1 Phillips Driver through the hole of the Roll Pin, you should be able to shift through the Gears. Go through them all so you can compare.

 

I disconnected the link from the coupling. The gear lever and link rod moves freely in any direction. Another idea was that for some reason the lever can not rotate the link rod enough to reach the bell 1st/2nd crank bell. But I now I am sure that is not the reason of the fault.

 

But, about 5 minutes ago I removed the seal from the NEW slave cylinder - it leaks    Not too much, but there is fluid outside the piston.

[gaspen]

Oh! And I am going to make the test with the Philips 

 

Thanks for your advices,I'll report later

[gaspen]

So the afternon shift is over 

 

Slave cylinder solved, now it does not leak. Bleeded again. And again. And again....

 

I've measured the travel of the clutch arm at the top : 14-15 mm. As far as I know it must be enough.

 

I have to write that I replaced all pins, repaired all holes in the clutch's mechanical parts during the restoration. There is no significant backlash in it.

 

I almost forgot that I have a spare gearbox under the bench    I connected the gear lever assembly to it and it works good. In same cases I can not select gears, but overall it shows a better behaviour. But that gearbox is not overhauled and there is not oil in it, of course.

 

What I think now ?

 

1) The engine filled with Millers 30 running-in oil at the moment. Maybe it has different friction compared to a 20W-50 or similar oil and this cause a stiffer shifting. (But why not in 3rd/4th?!)

 

2) I was very careful on the building, but it is possible that I exchanged the bell cranks of the 1/2 and 3/4 forks. I learned earlier that in this case         selecting gears become impossible. I am right ?

 

 

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[Spider]

OK, good progress and test there, but before going too far with anything here I'd still suggest testing the gearbox in the car with the Phillips Driver.

 

The Oil I can't see having a impact here.

 

If the Bell Cranks got mixed up, it's usually 3rd and 4th that can get stiff. There's a couple of distinguishing features between the 1st / 2nd and 3rd / 4th Cranks to tell them apart;-

 

The 1st / 2nd one has a taper only on one side on the Input end,
When compared to the 3rd / 4th one, the 1st / 2nd one is longer on the output end, and
The 3rd / 4th one has a taper on both sides on the Input end.

I'm actually thinking the issue(s) her could be a mismatch and / or worn 1st / 2nd  Synchro Hub and / or the Rod that the Selector Forks mount on to has a bend in it and / or the 1st / 2nd Selector Fork is worn.

As these are clearly all Internal items, before jumping in the deep end, this is why I'd suggest testing the Shift with the Phillips Driver first.

[gaspen]

Ok, I suggest that I've installed the bellcranks in the right order. Also the gear linkage is in a good shape.

 

About Philips-test : I made it with a locking plier instead as there is not enough room to put the driver while I'm lying under the car    Maybe I have not enough power in my arms but I could select only 4th easily. Other gears need more effort they needed a little impact on the plier. I followed the same procedure with the spare box on the bench, and it wasn't easy to select gears by hand also.

 

 

When I stripped down the gearbox on the winter of 2019 I found lots of worn or broken parts. I replaced all of them for NOS or for good shaped used parts : 1st/2nd syncro, two bellcranks, both selector forks, layshaft and its pivot, reverse idler with single bush and all the bearings of course. Endfloats and torques were set as in the book. I did not checked if the fork's rod bent or not but I assume that I would noticed it. Nevertheless you should be right, which I would not happy about 

 

Yesterday evening a read some another topics about similar problem, they focused on the clutch, especially on the clutch lever. Today I'll check all possible mistakes there.

 

Regards and thanks a lot ! I'll report later, as usual 

 

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[gaspen]

Today I achieved some improvement.

 

First removed the clutch arm for inspection. I found that it's a little bit worn, so I welded up the ball and rasped/sanded back to fit in the plunge.

 

I think I'll put a new arm to the basket next time at MiniSpares.

 

Next I dismantled the master cylinder and despite that I did not found any fault I've installed a new repair kit - just in case.

 

Bleeding time.

 

Finally I followed another tutorial for setup the clearance. It says : screw the bolt until it touches the arm, then turn it back one flat. 

 

I am not sure it will be the final stage as I don't know if the release bearing will 'like' this but it works. I can select gears more easily than before, so I drove a round in the city without any documents in my pocket 

 

I measured the movement of the pressure plate, it moves ~1.5 mm at fully depressed pedal.

 

Tomorrow I will check one more thing. At the moment I can depress the clutch pedal all the way to the floor - carpet not installed yet. With the carpet in I will lost some mm movement, right ?

 

What if I weld up the hole in the pedal where it connects to the master cylinder and drill a new one a little bit above the old hole ?

[gaspen]

Prior to working on the Clutch, how was it selecting Reverse Gear ?

Did it go in OK or did it grind in, even by a small bit ?

 

I did not have any issue with the reverse gear.