37 replies to this topic

[Spider]

Prior to working on the Clutch, how was it selecting Reverse Gear ?

Did it go in OK or did it grind in, even by a small bit ?

 

And what type of clutch do you have ? Verto or Pre-verto ?

 

Before moving the Hole on the Pedal or Master Cylinder, check how much clearance you have between the Pedal and the Bulkhead, there must be at least 2 - 3 mm clearance here. This photo shows where to check on the Brake Pedal, but it's the same for the Clutch;-

 

< Edit: sorry - this posted multipal times and in cleaning it up it got out of order ! >

Edited by Spider, 21 August 2021 - 07:50 PM.

[Spider]

 

Prior to working on the Clutch, how was it selecting Reverse Gear ?

Did it go in OK or did it grind in, even by a small bit ?

 

I did not have any issue with the reverse gear.

 

 

OK, cheers.

I doubt then the issue is with the Clutch.

Just as a 'heads up' here. When Stationary, it is a 'quirk' with these gearboxes that they can be difficult to select 1st when stationary, however, selecting 2nd and then 1st, they usually go in easy - it's not this that's been occurring has it ?

[gaspen]

I learnt that lesson when the front right brake jammed. Since then I fitted the correct plate and gaskets below the masters. Tomorrow I will check how much room I have there.

 

The car is 998cc, 1975. clutch is pre-verto.

 

selecting 2nd and then 1st, they usually go in easy - it's not this that's been occurring has it ?

 

I experienced this behaviour in some cases.

 

 

 

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[gaspen]

Instead of welding and drill a new hole I simlpy bent the pedal    Before I welded it up, I put a littel nut into the cut and test the movement. I set the clearence to normal and now the clutch travels 2.0 mm at the plunge. Selecting gear stationary is a dream 

 

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Edited by gaspen, 22 August 2021 - 02:03 PM.

[Spider]

I'm glad you've resolved it and it's a unique fix on the pedal, but it's still 'interesting' that prior to this you only found the issue on 1st / 2nd gears and not Reverse.

[gaspen]

I'm glad you've resolved it and it's a unique fix on the pedal, but it's still 'interesting' that prior to this you only found the issue on 1st / 2nd gears and not Reverse.

One thing came to mind. When I started the bodywork I removed the front beam from the bulkhead. After I repaired it i welded to its place what i marked before. There could be some misalignment which affects the pedal box position and the clutch pedal touched the floor before the MC fully actuated.

Anyway thanks for your cooperation and helping me thinking.

[gaspen]

One more question : I saw somewhere bushes to the gear lever housing. Could you help me with a part number ?

 

Thanks

[Spider]

The Bushes aren't available as a spare part, however the Bearing Suppliers can offer them. Ask for two DU Bushes, R-08DU08. They should be less that $1USD ea.

[gaspen]

Thank you !

[gaspen]

Unfortunately my happines did not lost long. The fault did not go away.

 

Time to remove the gearbox ?

[Spider]

Possibly, but (and I know we've been here before) just try shifting through the gears (all gears) with the Shifter disconnected and using a tool of your choice to shoft through each gear directly. There more or less should feel similar to each other and a little less for Reverse.

[gaspen]

Ok, I'll make some platform to raise the car by the wheels and work under it "comfortably". Maybe I'll drive to my workplace which is a truck workshop and we have pits there. It is a 10 km route.

 

A) I will able to select all gears with little effort. What's next ?

 

B) I will not able to select 1st/2nd. Gearbox remove and inspect ?

 

Last weekend I removed the starter motor and with a steel ruler I reached the primary gear which I was able to rotate while the pedal was depressed.

[gaspen]

If you follow my another topic about "Diff shim in-car" you will see that the diff has oil leak.

 

And I won : the O-ring at the detent sleeve is missing - because I did not put it in of course 

 

Another fault that I found that one of the threads in the diff cover is came out. I think it's time to lift out the engine 

 

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[Spider]

Ok, I'll make some platform to raise the car by the wheels and work under it "comfortably". Maybe I'll drive to my workplace which is a truck workshop and we have pits there. It is a 10 km route.

 

A) I will able to select all gears with little effort. What's next ?

 

B) I will not able to select 1st/2nd. Gearbox remove and inspect ?

 

Last weekend I removed the starter motor and with a steel ruler I reached the primary gear which I was able to rotate while the pedal was depressed.

 

A and B - yes. The reason for doing this test is to establish with some good certainty if the problem is Internal or External. It's a lot of work to pull the Engine, take the Gearbox off, then Strip the Gearbox pretty much to the last nut, if only to find the issue was in the Shifter,

 

 

And I won : the O-ring at the detent sleeve is missing - because I did not put it in of course 

 

Heheheheehe,,,,,, personally, I wouldn't call that a 'win'
 

 

I have Helicoiled the Diff Side Plate Threads in-car, so if the Engine doesn't need to come out, I wouldn't be pulling it out to do this job. I did have to use a long drill extension to get to some of them, though if I had an angled head drill, I could get to them with that,,,,, reminds me,,,, the missus has one,,,,maybe not for long,,,,,,

[gaspen]

Hello Spider

 

I understand what is the reason of the test but after this long conversation I can not see what could be the external fault. 

 

The movement of the gear lever is not tight, but there is a "gate" somewhere beetween the gear lever and the 1st syncro and I can not find it "outside"

 

The drill extension is a good idea, thanks !

 

Maybe I should remove the flywheel and see what's with the clutch ?

Edited by gaspen, 01 September 2021 - 05:04 AM.