
Webcon 7 Port
#31
Posted 29 June 2022 - 06:41 AM
#32
Posted 29 June 2022 - 08:03 AM
What size injectors did you end up with because you'll not need them any larger than 220 otherwise it'll be even more difficult to set up.I hoping mine will be up and tuned in the next couple of months
#33
Posted 29 June 2022 - 08:21 AM
What size injectors did you end up with because you'll not need them any larger than 220 otherwise it'll be even more difficult to set up.I hoping mine will be up and tuned in the next couple of months
What is the rest of the engine specification and what valve sizes do you use?
#34
Posted 29 June 2022 - 08:59 AM
Getting a new 1360 block built as we speak with a spec’d billet cam, straight cut MED box, MED stage 3 clutch kit, MED cambelt conversion bla bla bla
Edited by joyce1bro, 29 June 2022 - 09:02 AM.
#35
Posted 29 June 2022 - 09:07 AM
This is just my experience as a DIY bodger,your experience will differ.Just because some one sell things does not make them an expert,although there are experts out there who I apologise to,Steve..
#36
Posted 29 June 2022 - 09:29 AM
The SC supplied ecu works well at low revs, that's the easy part. The problem is, its incredibly time consuming to set up and therefore unless you find someone who's done them before the tuner normally loses the will to live before they finish! Another big problem is cold weather running immediately after start up. You can spend literally weeks setting it up because once you've made changes you have to wait until the following day to test it again. The SC supplied map is very poor in this part of the setup.My 1800 MGB uses four 200 cc injectors and does not run out of duty cycle.I found it important to have an ECU that can support small opening times(research injector dead time) .With ITB there is a massive change in air(therefore fuel)admitted as soon as the throttle is opened.I found that fast running was easy to tune,but low speed and driveability was much more challenging.A car that idles erratically,has flat spots on tip in,bucks and jerks at low throttle openings(you do much more low speed driving than you think)and is difficult to start gets old very quickly.I speak from twenty years of driving Megasquirt equipped cars the early versions of which were bereft of almost any support( this has now evolved).Buy a book on aftermarket fuel injection and enjoy studying it,you will gain massive knowledge and enjoyment.
This is just my experience as a DIY bodger,your experience will differ.Just because some one sell things does not make them an expert,although there are experts out there who I apologise to,Steve..
#37
Posted 29 June 2022 - 09:53 AM
#38
Posted 29 June 2022 - 09:56 AM
The other thing I’ll probably do is future proof for flex fuel.. so we’ll have it setup for that as well.
As for injector size there were a few posts on other forums where they found the 220cc injectors a good match. I could always drop down to a 200cc but we can sort that as needed.
I’ll also be running a Link Can wideband kit, then the ECU can make real time adjustments to target AFR
Here’s some info around fueling on the Link ECU. Unsure if it answers the “injector dead time” comment though
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Edited by joyce1bro, 29 June 2022 - 10:09 AM.
#39
Posted 29 June 2022 - 01:13 PM
I think my injectors are 216 5 hole
#40
Posted 09 October 2022 - 07:58 AM
Attached Files
#41
Posted 09 October 2022 - 04:10 PM
#42
Posted 09 October 2022 - 06:53 PM
Nice that. What air filter arw you putting on. The SC supplied 1?
They didn’t supply me one but yeah at some point I’ll put there one on. Just need to get it running and tuned first. I may need to change the runner length so it all fits under the bonnet luckily SC supplied 3 sets of different lengths.
#43
Posted 09 October 2022 - 08:19 PM
#44
Posted 11 October 2022 - 06:15 AM
With those size rams you will need to go up a filter size as manufacturer recommends at minimum 15mm between the inside of the filter and the lip.
I think I’ll be using shorter runners for sure
#45
Posted 11 November 2022 - 09:02 AM
Keep us posted.
Well here’s a little update:
Engine is in and started. Hasn’t been tuned yet but so far so good. Currently working with the Link ECU guys to get cam sync working using MAP sensor inputs. One thing I do know is changing the spark plugs are an absolute mission.. you have to take the ITB’s off to get to them and with a front mount radiator that’s not fun.
Because I’m running a Link I had to change coils from “dumb” to “smart” for reference NGK and Bosch have them part numbers are ngk U2003 and bosch 0221603010
https://youtu.be/1vWtVjGt-9c
Attached Files
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