41 replies to this topic

[Maccmike8]

I'd say with the priming and cranking you've done, the Oil Pump is probably quite worn. If it was being driven often, you probably wouldn't know, but that it's been sat around now for a while it's drained back and the clearances within it due to the likely wear it's just too much to get it to draw the oil up.

 

Take the Banjo Bolt up and fill that right up. Let it sit overnight. If there's still a lot of oil there, then the Pump is OK, if the Oil's gone, either the Relief Valve is just not seating properly (and yes, noted that you've checked it) or the Pump is worn as I'm guessing here.

 

Thank you,

Just to clarify, take the oil filter pipe banjo off, fill with oil until cant take anymore, leave banjo off and check the banjo oil level next day?

[Maccmike8]

Just watched a youtube video, cant believe how high up the oil pump is 

[weef]

You did not say if you bought an engine and gearbox as a complete unit or was it just an engine. If the former I presume the "o" ring is fitted between the engine and gearbox, if not did you ensure there is one correctly fitted ?.

As regards priming the pump, if there is some wear you could try using a thicker oil so it stays in the pump a bit longer and maybe give it a chance to pick up oil from the "sump" . Hypoid 90 comes to mind or make up a mixture of engine oil and moly grease and pump it in with an oil can.

[Spider]

 

I'd say with the priming and cranking you've done, the Oil Pump is probably quite worn. If it was being driven often, you probably wouldn't know, but that it's been sat around now for a while it's drained back and the clearances within it due to the likely wear it's just too much to get it to draw the oil up.

 

Take the Banjo Bolt up and fill that right up. Let it sit overnight. If there's still a lot of oil there, then the Pump is OK, if the Oil's gone, either the Relief Valve is just not seating properly (and yes, noted that you've checked it) or the Pump is worn as I'm guessing here.

 

Thank you,

Just to clarify, take the oil filter pipe banjo off, fill with oil until cant take anymore, leave banjo off and check the banjo oil level next day?

 

 

Yeap you got it. Don't roll it or turn it over, just see if it leaks down. Even a good pump will 'leak' a little, so don't worry about that, but if it's all gone,,,,,,

[Maccmike8]

You did not say if you bought an engine and gearbox as a complete unit or was it just an engine. If the former I presume the "o" ring is fitted between the engine and gearbox, if not did you ensure there is one correctly fitted ?.

As regards priming the pump, if there is some wear you could try using a thicker oil so it stays in the pump a bit longer and maybe give it a chance to pick up oil from the "sump" . Hypoid 90 comes to mind or make up a mixture of engine oil and moly grease and pump it in with an oil can.

 

Thank you. 

It was a complete engine and gearbox so can only assume the oring is in place

[gazza82]

Thank you. 

It was a complete engine and gearbox so can only assume the oring is in place

 

Never Assume anything ... it makes a "Ass" out of "U" and "Me"!

[Maccmike8]

 

Thank you. 

It was a complete engine and gearbox so can only assume the oring is in place

 

Never Assume anything ... it makes a "Ass" out of "U" and "Me"!

 

 

It was sold to me as a running engine, therefore I can only hope and assume the o'ring is fitted.

[Maccmike8]

You did not say if you bought an engine and gearbox as a complete unit or was it just an engine. If the former I presume the "o" ring is fitted between the engine and gearbox, if not did you ensure there is one correctly fitted ?.
As regards priming the pump, if there is some wear you could try using a thicker oil so it stays in the pump a bit longer and maybe give it a chance to pick up oil from the "sump" . Hypoid 90 comes to mind or make up a mixture of engine oil and moly grease and pump it in with an oil can.

 

 

I'd say with the priming and cranking you've done, the Oil Pump is probably quite worn. If it was being driven often, you probably wouldn't know, but that it's been sat around now for a while it's drained back and the clearances within it due to the likely wear it's just too much to get it to draw the oil up.

Take the Banjo Bolt up and fill that right up. Let it sit overnight. If there's still a lot of oil there, then the Pump is OK, if the Oil's gone, either the Relief Valve is just not seating properly (and yes, noted that you've checked it) or the Pump is worn as I'm guessing here.

Thank you,
Just to clarify, take the oil filter pipe banjo off, fill with oil until cant take anymore, leave banjo off and check the banjo oil level next day?

Yeap you got it. Don't roll it or turn it over, just see if it leaks down. Even a good pump will 'leak' a little, so don't worry about that, but if it's all gone,,,,,,

Ive poured some diff oil in 80/90, maybe 50ml, cranked and oil pressure came

Banjo back in, plugs in, cranking for about 30seconds, didnt start and no pressure.

Normally I would stop there but as Id seen pressure, rotated dizzy a bit and fired up straight away.

It took about 10 seconds for the oil pressure to show on the test kit - Is that normal?

Showing 20-30psi at idle/very low revs.

Edited by Maccmike8, 30 June 2023 - 06:04 PM.

[Spider]

That's sort of a good result. I'd say the engine itself is in good order, but I'm quite suspect the pump is worn. On cold start up, you usually see oil pressure in about 1 - 2 seconds and after shut off, with cold oil, it usually takes around 5 - 6 seconds for the Oil Pressure to drop to zero.

[Lplus]

 

You did not say if you bought an engine and gearbox as a complete unit or was it just an engine. If the former I presume the "o" ring is fitted between the engine and gearbox, if not did you ensure there is one correctly fitted ?.
As regards priming the pump, if there is some wear you could try using a thicker oil so it stays in the pump a bit longer and maybe give it a chance to pick up oil from the "sump" . Hypoid 90 comes to mind or make up a mixture of engine oil and moly grease and pump it in with an oil can.

 

 

I'd say with the priming and cranking you've done, the Oil Pump is probably quite worn. If it was being driven often, you probably wouldn't know, but that it's been sat around now for a while it's drained back and the clearances within it due to the likely wear it's just too much to get it to draw the oil up.

Take the Banjo Bolt up and fill that right up. Let it sit overnight. If there's still a lot of oil there, then the Pump is OK, if the Oil's gone, either the Relief Valve is just not seating properly (and yes, noted that you've checked it) or the Pump is worn as I'm guessing here.

Thank you,
Just to clarify, take the oil filter pipe banjo off, fill with oil until cant take anymore, leave banjo off and check the banjo oil level next day?

Yeap you got it. Don't roll it or turn it over, just see if it leaks down. Even a good pump will 'leak' a little, so don't worry about that, but if it's all gone,,,,,,

Ive poured some diff oil in 80/90, maybe 50ml, cranked and oil pressure came

Banjo back in, plugs in, cranking for about 30seconds, didnt start and no pressure.

Normally I would stop there but as Id seen pressure, rotated dizzy a bit and fired up straight away.

It took about 10 seconds for the oil pressure to show on the test kit - Is that normal?

Showing 20-30psi at idle/very low revs.

 

Glad to see there's at least some pressure there.  20-30 psi hot or cold?  I'd expect a good engine to show that pressure hot.  I recently took an 1098 apart which took 5 or 6 seconds for the light to go out from cold after standing a while.  The pump was well worn, but the bearings and crank were in very good condition - good enough to use the crank again with just a polish.

[Maccmike8]

That's sort of a good result. I'd say the engine itself is in good order, but I'm quite suspect the pump is worn. On cold start up, you usually see oil pressure in about 1 - 2 seconds and after shut off, with cold oil, it usually takes around 5 - 6 seconds for the Oil Pressure to drop to zero.

 

 

 

You did not say if you bought an engine and gearbox as a complete unit or was it just an engine. If the former I presume the "o" ring is fitted between the engine and gearbox, if not did you ensure there is one correctly fitted ?.
As regards priming the pump, if there is some wear you could try using a thicker oil so it stays in the pump a bit longer and maybe give it a chance to pick up oil from the "sump" . Hypoid 90 comes to mind or make up a mixture of engine oil and moly grease and pump it in with an oil can.

 

 

I'd say with the priming and cranking you've done, the Oil Pump is probably quite worn. If it was being driven often, you probably wouldn't know, but that it's been sat around now for a while it's drained back and the clearances within it due to the likely wear it's just too much to get it to draw the oil up.

Take the Banjo Bolt up and fill that right up. Let it sit overnight. If there's still a lot of oil there, then the Pump is OK, if the Oil's gone, either the Relief Valve is just not seating properly (and yes, noted that you've checked it) or the Pump is worn as I'm guessing here.

Thank you,
Just to clarify, take the oil filter pipe banjo off, fill with oil until cant take anymore, leave banjo off and check the banjo oil level next day?

Yeap you got it. Don't roll it or turn it over, just see if it leaks down. Even a good pump will 'leak' a little, so don't worry about that, but if it's all gone,,,,,,

Ive poured some diff oil in 80/90, maybe 50ml, cranked and oil pressure came

Banjo back in, plugs in, cranking for about 30seconds, didnt start and no pressure.

Normally I would stop there but as Id seen pressure, rotated dizzy a bit and fired up straight away.

It took about 10 seconds for the oil pressure to show on the test kit - Is that normal?

Showing 20-30psi at idle/very low revs.

 

Glad to see there's at least some pressure there.  20-30 psi hot or cold?  I'd expect a good engine to show that pressure hot.  I recently took an 1098 apart which took 5 or 6 seconds for the light to go out from cold after standing a while.  The pump was well worn, but the bearings and crank were in very good condition - good enough to use the crank again with just a polish.

 

 

Think Im going remove the engine and change the pump. The fact it runs without any worrying noises gives me comfort.

What parts will I need?

 

PSI was cold. Engine ran for less than 30seconds.

[weef]

Probably a good move to replace the pump, just one thing though, remember to prime the new pump !!!!!!!!!

 

Cheers

[Midas Mk1]

Recommend the KAD zero toleranced pump, or Swiftune billet pump, night and day over other pumps on the market.

[Spider]

Think Im going remove the engine and change the pump. The fact it runs without any worrying noises gives me comfort.

What parts will I need?

 

 

Oil Pump (of course !) - but you maybe wise to wait until it's out to see what drive you have on the Cam unless you are sure of what's in there. I find the stock steel backed pumps excellent.
Gasket to suit
Flywheel Housing Gasket

That's really about it.

You will need to remove the Flywheel, so you'll need a puller and while it's off, it's an opportunity to check the clutch.
 

[Maccmike8]

Probably a good move to replace the pump, just one thing though, remember to prime the new pump !!!!!!!!!

 

Cheers

 

Recommend the KAD zero toleranced pump, or Swiftune billet pump, night and day over other pumps on the market.

 

 

Think Im going remove the engine and change the pump. The fact it runs without any worrying noises gives me comfort.

What parts will I need?

 

 

Oil Pump (of course !) - but you maybe wise to wait until it's out to see what drive you have on the Cam unless you are sure of what's in there. I find the stock steel backed pumps excellent.
Gasket to suit
Flywheel Housing Gasket

That's really about it.

You will need to remove the Flywheel, so you'll need a puller and while it's off, it's an opportunity to check the clutch.
 

 

 

 

Thank you all. Honestly humbled by the help.