22 replies to this topic

[CBJ805T]

Hi , I’m dusting off the project again and tackling the bulkhead. I can’t decide what to do with the x-member. It’s quite crusty but cutting it out feels like a massive job and I’m worried about correctly aligning it when refitting.

What are your thought? Salvageable? If so how would you treat the ends / inside surfaces?

Scrap? If so, any tips for removing and replacing ?

 

https://www.amazon.c...iSJvhLhbPDwQv0A

 

https://www.amazon.c...i6xU47W3YeT8aLY

 

https://www.amazon.c...y0B2gfeloarWf2u

Edited by CBJ805T, 04 November 2023 - 08:53 AM.

[Bobbins]

Photos?

[mab01uk]

The bulkhead cross-member looks ok, it is very thick steel and the surface rust around the master cylinder area is quite common due to spills of brake fluid stripping the paint, just de-rust as much as possible and treat with Kurust primer or similar. The rust hole at the ends in the inner wheel arch are also common where the shock absorber mounting brackets were bolted to the bare steel shell before painting at the factory, so the sheet metal of the inner wing behind the brackets rusts through. This can be repaired by having new steel plates welded inside the inner wing each side after again removing /treating any surface rust.

https://www.hammerit...product/kurust/

Edited by mab01uk, 04 November 2023 - 05:31 PM.

[Be87n]

I had one that was quite rotten in the corners and heavy pitting from rust near the master cylinder(s). Decided to cut the old one out and fot a complete new one just because it wasn't that pricey at the time compared to just the corner pieces. The job wasn't that hard and the issue is more with aligning. I did change it after fitting the front end, because I didn't think about changing at first. This made sure that the alignment was correct as it was a simple job of bolting the subframe to the front and rear mounts and setting the crossmember on top.

 

Looking at your photo's I wouldn't change it and just look on the insde via the pedal box mounting to see if there is any serious rust going on inside it. If not, leave it be and spray the hell out of it with any type of cavity wax.

[bpirie1000]

Just do not rush things..

Measure many, weld once.....

The bulkhead where the master cylinde4s mount just needs sanded down and treated.

Elbow grease... and do not rush this...

Time spent now saves heart ache later.....

[CBJ805T]

Thanks All - I spent the morning removing the remainder of the inner wing (a job I've been putting off for about 5 years) to get a better view of the inside. 

 

https://www.amazon.c...8ZR4vWM5l7GmS2d

 

https://www.amazon.c...B3D2fmCwEW16DyZ

 

Any tips for how to clean up the inside surfaces?

 

Cheers

 

Chris

[stuart bowes]

https://www.rolsonto...rill-brush-set/

 

whatever gets in there the furthest and into the corners most effectively, you might even find a hand held old school wire brush does the trick for some parts 

 

https://www.screwfix...wE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

or similar.. various sizes and different suppliers are available, you might even find in some cases the really small Dremel attachments work best 

Edited by stuart bowes, 04 November 2023 - 11:00 PM.

[Designer]

How about a finger sander, they are not too expensive.

[stuart bowes]

They're good too but difficult to get right into corners and can risk thinning out metal instead of just cleaning it up you'd have to use it carefully

[sonikk4]

Ok a couple of suggestions as i have been there and done a lot more to the crossmember without removing / replacing.

 

The two gussets that are currently fitted, you need to remove them. Something like nine spot welds. Now have a really good look at the end of the crossmember. Is it pitted once you have taken the surface rust off, if the answer is yes and its going against what a lot of the replies have said in this thread, you need to cut it out. Pitting equals thinning.

 

I will add the link to my build without cluttering up this thread as there are a lot of pictures.

https://www.theminif...rebuild/page-34

https://www.theminif...rebuild/page-35

[sonscar]

Because I can I would grit blast the rust.Citric acid soaking will completely remove(NOT convert)the rust,DEOX gel will also remove rust.It is possible to replace this part and make a much worse job.You know your own skills.I am with Sonnik in removing the triangular gussets.Steve..

[CBJ805T]

Thank for all the input - its a great help! I'll take the triangular gussets off and clean down all the surfaces and see what I have left, then go from there 

 

are the gussets available as an aftermarket panel? I can't see them on Mini spares 

 

Cheers

 

Chris 

Edited by CBJ805T, 06 November 2023 - 12:50 PM.

[GraemeC]

The triangle panels are available from m-machine.  Part numbers 13.23.05.03 and .04 for 1970 onwards
From MiniSpares they are AHP36001 and AHP36007

Edited by GraemeC, 06 November 2023 - 03:04 PM.

[sonikk4]

Thank for all the input - its a great help! I'll take the triangular gussets off and clean down all the surfaces and see what I have left, then go from there 

 

are the gussets available as an aftermarket panel? I can't see them on Mini spares 

 

Cheers

 

Chris 

 

If they are bad on the bottom half, just cut that section off and add fresh metal. Done that several times now.

[CBJ805T]

Hi All, 

 

I spent today removing the scuttle and Gussets to get a better view of the area -  the bulk head is quite pitted, as is the carb cut-out on the x-member. Can I have you're opinions please?

1. Treat the rust and move on
2. Cut out the bulk head and leave the x-member
3. Replace the X-member / 1.2 xmember and sections of the bulkhead

 

https://www.amazon.c...xWmF9suxae7Fhux

 

https://www.amazon.c...WiwBoA2WuEPL82Z

 

https://www.amazon.c...uTZsDegj3BEaF0y

 

https://www.amazon.c...Vf0xbHamKnp8yNL

 

 

Thanks 

 

Chris 

Edited by CBJ805T, 19 November 2023 - 04:35 PM.