37 replies to this topic

[bpirie1000]

Flywheel locking tabs are not knocked down yet....

Or were you taking the flywheel off?

[germini30]

I noticed that too

[GraemeC]

Ignore me!

Edited by GraemeC, 21 January 2024 - 06:32 PM.

[GraemeC]

Split pin is supposed to be there - it isn’t random.

The nut on the plunger looks like it is wound on a long way, but on the video you do seem to have sufficient movement

[Lplus]

Flywheel locking tabs are not knocked down yet....

Or were you taking the flywheel off?

The part of the lock tab beside the cutouts is undamaged which suggests it was never spread out after being tightened.  I don't think the OP has tried to undo it to remove the flywheel yet.

 

 

Given that all the parts seem to be present and correct, the problem may be deeper.  Possibly the primary gear is too tight on the crank or maybe the flywheel taper is too far up the crank taper due to wear and has jammed the C washer and bearing ring against the primary gear?
 

[bpirie1000]

After thinking about this for some time, over my tea....


The release bearing looks like it is on the wrong way round.

Searched the net a bit and come up with this..

Someone else who made the easy mistake.
http://www.turbomini...p=vt&tid=609636

Have a look see what you think... my money(for what it is worth) is on the release bearing needing flipped over by means of the rubber retaining o ring.


This is how it should look. The side that connects with the clutch...

https://www.bullmoti...fittings/grb239

Edited by bpirie1000, 21 January 2024 - 08:43 PM.

[supersimono]

Split pin is supposed to be there - it isn’t random.

The nut on the plunger looks like it is wound on a long way, but on the video you do seem to have sufficient movement

thanks - I measured 6.5mm per the haynes but this ended up being right up against the flange.

 

 

Flywheel locking tabs are not knocked down yet....

Or were you taking the flywheel off?

The part of the lock tab beside the cutouts is undamaged which suggests it was never spread out after being tightened.  I don't think the OP has tried to undo it to remove the flywheel yet.

 

 

Given that all the parts seem to be present and correct, the problem may be deeper.  Possibly the primary gear is too tight on the crank or maybe the flywheel taper is too far up the crank taper due to wear and has jammed the C washer and bearing ring against the primary gear?
 

 

I didn't assemble the engine after rebuild but agree that this might have been missed out by the engine builder. I'll knock them over just to be sure.

 

After thinking about this for some time, over my tea....


The release bearing looks like it is on the wrong way round.

Searched the net a bit and come up with this..

Someone else who made the easy mistake.
http://www.turbomini...p=vt&tid=609636

Have a look see what you think... my money(for what it is worth) is on the release bearing needing flipped over by means of the rubber retaining o ring.


This is how it should look. The side that connects with the clutch...

https://www.bullmoti...fittings/grb239

I'll give this a go and see if this resolves the issue :) Those part are all original from when I bought it (14+ years ago) so I think I might buy new 

[Lplus]

 

Split pin is supposed to be there - it isn’t random.

The nut on the plunger looks like it is wound on a long way, but on the video you do seem to have sufficient movement

thanks - I measured 6.5mm per the haynes but this ended up being right up against the flange.

 

 

Flywheel locking tabs are not knocked down yet....

Or were you taking the flywheel off?

The part of the lock tab beside the cutouts is undamaged which suggests it was never spread out after being tightened.  I don't think the OP has tried to undo it to remove the flywheel yet.

 

 

Given that all the parts seem to be present and correct, the problem may be deeper.  Possibly the primary gear is too tight on the crank or maybe the flywheel taper is too far up the crank taper due to wear and has jammed the C washer and bearing ring against the primary gear?
 

 

I didn't assemble the engine after rebuild but agree that this might have been missed out by the engine builder. I'll knock them over just to be sure.

 

After thinking about this for some time, over my tea....


The release bearing looks like it is on the wrong way round.

Searched the net a bit and come up with this..

Someone else who made the easy mistake.
http://www.turbomini...p=vt&tid=609636

Have a look see what you think... my money(for what it is worth) is on the release bearing needing flipped over by means of the rubber retaining o ring.


This is how it should look. The side that connects with the clutch...

https://www.bullmoti...fittings/grb239

I'll give this a go and see if this resolves the issue :) Those part are all original from when I bought it (14+ years ago) so I think I might buy new 

 

I think you have the thrust bearing on correctly, the thin curved face is not the bearing face.  It's the inner ring of the thrust bearing which bears on the inner ring of the top hat which transmits the pressure to the clutch spring fingers.

 

see item 15 here, ccourtesy of minispares

http://minispares.co...~ON.aspx?1~3~30

 

Edited by Lplus, 22 January 2024 - 04:49 PM.

[mad4classics]

Just a comment and probably just the angle the photo is taken at, but I would expect the spring to be pretty much flat when the pressure plate is tightened down on a new plate...

[supersimono]

 

 

Split pin is supposed to be there - it isn’t random.

The nut on the plunger looks like it is wound on a long way, but on the video you do seem to have sufficient movement

thanks - I measured 6.5mm per the haynes but this ended up being right up against the flange.

 

 

Flywheel locking tabs are not knocked down yet....

Or were you taking the flywheel off?

The part of the lock tab beside the cutouts is undamaged which suggests it was never spread out after being tightened.  I don't think the OP has tried to undo it to remove the flywheel yet.

 

 

Given that all the parts seem to be present and correct, the problem may be deeper.  Possibly the primary gear is too tight on the crank or maybe the flywheel taper is too far up the crank taper due to wear and has jammed the C washer and bearing ring against the primary gear?
 

 

I didn't assemble the engine after rebuild but agree that this might have been missed out by the engine builder. I'll knock them over just to be sure.

 

After thinking about this for some time, over my tea....


The release bearing looks like it is on the wrong way round.

Searched the net a bit and come up with this..

Someone else who made the easy mistake.
http://www.turbomini...p=vt&tid=609636

Have a look see what you think... my money(for what it is worth) is on the release bearing needing flipped over by means of the rubber retaining o ring.


This is how it should look. The side that connects with the clutch...

https://www.bullmoti...fittings/grb239

I'll give this a go and see if this resolves the issue :) Those part are all original from when I bought it (14+ years ago) so I think I might buy new 

 

I think you have the thrust bearing on correctly, the thin curved face is not the bearing face.  It's the inner ring of the thrust bearing which bears on the inner ring of the top hat which transmits the pressure to the clutch spring fingers.

 

see item 15 here, ccourtesy of minispares

http://minispares.co...~ON.aspx?1~3~30

 

 

thanks. I've ordered all the parts from MED so they should arrive tomorrow ready for the weekend to fit - fingers crossed!

 

Just a comment and probably just the angle the photo is taken at, but I would expect the spring to be pretty much flat when the pressure plate is tightened down on a new plate...

sorry if this sounds silly, but which bit are you referring to? 

[sonscar]

The fingers of the spring are a cone and flatten out when the clutch is disengaged,Steve..

[bpirie1000]

Have you considered wear on the ball end of the clutch throw? Or the clutch slide.

[sonscar]

Too late now but I remove the starter and look through the hole to see the clutch parts actually moving,Steve..

[Steve220]

Can you 100% confirm that the friction plate is in there?

[supersimono]

So I had a bit of time this weekend, and I replaced the clutch lever arm, release bearing and the plunger. As I thought, this didn’t fix the problem!

I took the starter motor off to see what happens when the clutch is pressed and I can see all the parts moving. I couldn’t quite make out the fingers from sticking my phone in there to have a look, but I’ve taken a video for people to see.

https://drive.google...ew?usp=drivesdk

Now that I replaced pretty much everything to do with the clutch, I’m starting to think this is not a clutch problem and it’s something else? If the selector pin on the gearbox, it’s not corresponding to the gear on the gear selector could that be the problem?

My thoughts are, that when I put it into gear (.E. press clutch, put into gear, release clutch) that I shouldn’t be able to move the gearstick while it’s in gear, but actually I’m able to move the gear selector through gears without pressing the clutch. So it’s either a gear selector problem or a gearbox problem?

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