78 replies to this topic

[PACINO]

Hi guys! Yesterday, they finally brought me the rebuilt engine (now1310cc with h.compression Swiftune pistons). In the workshop, where my car waits to receive the new engine, we have detected 2 things:
-The first one is that the engine turns with difficulty. It is necessary to use a lot of force to turn it. And it doesn't even have the spark plugs on.
-The second, is that the outputs for the driveshafts have a bit of play. They can be moved by hand (both sides) up/down and right/left around 2 millimeters.
Is this normal?

https://youtube.com/...QGFHSkYH9JfYHhC

https://youtube.com/...rKDXRZ9dMpSmR9Q

Thanks in advance....

[Steve220]

If that's with the cylinder head on, it's about right. You're fighting the valve springs.

[RooBoonix]

That level of "effort" looks about right. As Steve said above you're fighting valve springs and friction of the rings etc... nothing to worry about.

It is also normal to have some play in the splined diff outputs, the inner CV/pot joints are what have the machined running surfaces that locate within the bushes on the diff side covers.

Edited by RooBoonix, 09 March 2024 - 06:55 AM.

[PACINO]

Thanks Steve and Rooboonix. What worries me most is how we are going to start this beast without breaking or burning the starter motor or a connecting rod coming out of the front. It's all new and very tight.

[Stevie W]

As Steve220 and Rooboonix stated, that's about right for turning an engine over. My 1293 A+ has over 3000 miles on it and it still need a spanner to turn it over, but when running it revs freely and runs very well.

 

The starter motor is very powerful and more than capable of spinning your engine over. Make sure you turn it over with the plugs out to get the oil pressure up before trying to start it!

 

Cheers, Steve.

[Steve220]

Thanks Steve and Rooboonix. What worries me most is how we are going to start this beast without breaking or burning the starter motor or a connecting rod coming out of the front. It's all new and very tight.

It'll be fine. Get oil pressure first before starting it, then get it to 2k immediately to bed the cam and followers in if you've had a new cam

[PACINO]

Lovely! Thanks guys, you're the best. I'll do exactly what you advise and cross my fingers that everything goes well. If I can successfully turn it on, I'll make a video and put it here so you can see it.

[PACINO]

Thanks Steve and Rooboonix. What worries me most is how we are going to start this beast without breaking or burning the starter motor or a connecting rod coming out of the front. It's all new and very tight.

It'll be fine. Get oil pressure first before starting it, then get it to 2k immediately to bed the cam and followers in if you've had a new cam

Steve, if you mean the camshaft is new, that's right. A Sw5, double valve springs (perhaps this, the springs is offering greater resistance for the engine to turn) and double timing chain.
Regards !

[KTS]

also worth bearing in mind that it's better to have the fuel mixture too lean than too rich when you fire it up 

[stuart bowes]

bear in mind as well the starter gear is very small acting on what is effectively a very large gear (the outer edge of the flywheel) so the ratio there helps in terms of torque

 

it's not quite the same as turning it with the spanner by hand

Edited by stuart bowes, 09 March 2024 - 07:24 PM.

[Earwax]

If this was a 'professionally' built engine ( ie a workshop etc with warranty) , I would actually prefer them to do the first few cycles/start up.  ( and most mechanics I know would also prefer to "KNOW" all their hard and meticulous work isn't being undone with bore wash or glazing, cam not run in, not heat cycling and retorquing head etc).  Again most engine builders can also feel when something is not quite right ..... eg did the oil pump prime,)   If this is not the case , then make sure you follow the engine builder's exact instructions on start up  - when to add water, when to add coolant - when to adjust tappets ( warm I hope)  Cheers

[PACINO]

also worth bearing in mind that it's better to have the fuel mixture too lean than too rich when you fire it up

Hi KTS. What you wrote really surprised me. I don't really know what relationship the richness of the mixture has with starting an engine for the first time.

[PACINO]

bear in mind as well the starter gear is very small acting on what is effectively a very large gear (the outer edge of the flywheel) so the ratio there helps in terms of torque
 
it's not quite the same as turning it with the spanner by hand

Cheers Stuart! Of course, you are absolutely right about that, although my starter motor is not one of the latest, with the solenoid on top. Those spin harder.

[PACINO]

If this was a 'professionally' built engine ( ie a workshop etc with warranty) , I would actually prefer them to do the first few cycles/start up.  ( and most mechanics I know would also prefer to "KNOW" all their hard and meticulous work isn't being undone with bore wash or glazing, cam not run in, not heat cycling and retorquing head etc).  Again most engine builders can also feel when something is not quite right ..... eg did the oil pump prime,)   If this is not the case , then make sure you follow the engine builder's exact instructions on start up  - when to add water, when to add coolant - when to adjust tappets ( warm I hope)  Cheers

Your presentation is very accurate. This is how things should be done.
But we live in a time in which when you have already paid and the other party has received their money, it matters very little whether your engine is good or bad.
This engine was not made by a company, nor in a workshop. This engine has been made by a character who, now that I have all these doubts, doesn't pick up the phone and has disappeared.

Thanks a lot Earwax!

[PACINO]

There is something very curious here. Talking about that small clearance or "play" that the output driveshafts have (2-3mm), the ONLY spare parts that were left in my house forgotten without being sent to the guy who rebuilt the engine are these:



Seeing that it isn"t on the list of spare parts that he bought, the question is:
Is it possible to rebuild that part where the differential goes without fitting in these new parts?

Kind regards