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Rebuilt 1310Cc Austin Mini Engine. A Couple Of Issues.


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#16 KTS

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Posted 10 March 2024 - 04:55 PM

 

also worth bearing in mind that it's better to have the fuel mixture too lean than too rich when you fire it up


Hi KTS. What you wrote really surprised me. I don't really know what relationship the richness of the mixture has with starting an engine for the first time.

 

 

if the mixture is too rich the fuel will wash the oil from the bores (bore wash) preventing the rings from bedding in properly



#17 alex-95

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Posted 10 March 2024 - 08:54 PM

There is something very curious here. Talking about that small clearance or "play" that the output driveshafts have (2-3mm), the ONLY spare parts that were left in my house forgotten without being sent to the guy who rebuilt the engine are these:

20240308-204934.jpg

Seeing that it isn"t on the list of spare parts that he bought, the question is:
Is it possible to rebuild that part where the differential goes without fitting in these new parts?

Kind regards

Did you have a cross pin diff fitted? If so then I'm pretty sure these parts come with the kit. If it's not a cross pin diff then it will be worth asking the engine builder or remove the diff to check. 

 

What Carburettor have you got and what needle?

 

Have a read of this for running in an engine. https://www.calverst...in-new-engines/



#18 PACINO

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Posted 11 March 2024 - 12:34 AM

also worth bearing in mind that it's better to have the fuel mixture too lean than too rich when you fire it up


Hi KTS. What you wrote really surprised me. I don't really know what relationship the richness of the mixture has with starting an engine for the first time.
 
if the mixture is too rich the fuel will wash the oil from the bores (bore wash) preventing the rings from bedding in properly

Thanks for your advice KTS. Then, I'll try to ensure that the mixture is not too rich.

#19 PACINO

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Posted 11 March 2024 - 01:17 AM

There is something very curious here. Talking about that small clearance or "play" that the output driveshafts have (2-3mm), the ONLY spare parts that were left in my house forgotten without being sent to the guy who rebuilt the engine are these:

20240308-204934.jpg

Seeing that it isn"t on the list of spare parts that he bought, the question is:
Is it possible to rebuild that part where the differential goes without fitting in these new parts?

Kind regards

Did you have a cross pin diff fitted? If so then I'm pretty sure these parts come with the kit. If it's not a cross pin diff then it will be worth asking the engine builder or remove the diff to check. 
 
What Carburettor have you got and what needle?
 
Have a read of this for running in an engine. https://www.calverst...in-new-engines/

Hi Alex! My carburetor is a S.u twin Hs2. Needles EG.
The differential has not been replaced. Yes, we've changed the final drive from a 3.65 (too short with a 10" wheel) to a 3.44.
Fantastic sinopsis from Calver.

#20 Steve220

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Posted 11 March 2024 - 11:39 AM

Unless you're running 10:1, or less, afr for ages, I wouldn't worry about bore wash.

Edited by Steve220, 11 March 2024 - 11:39 AM.


#21 PACINO

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Posted 11 March 2024 - 03:14 PM

Unless you're running 10:1, or less, afr for ages, I wouldn't worry about bore wash.

Hi Steve, and thanks for your help, but I don't know what you mean with your phrase "I wouldn't worry about bore wash". Sorry for my English, but when I translate it I don't understand what you mean. Could you be more specific or explain it to me in other words?
Kind regards

#22 sonscar

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Posted 11 March 2024 - 06:18 PM

The fuel washes the oil from the cylinders and causes the honing peaks to flatten and polish,preventing the rings from sealing correctly.Steve..

Edited by sonscar, 11 March 2024 - 06:19 PM.


#23 PACINO

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Posted 11 March 2024 - 10:49 PM

The fuel washes the oil from the cylinders and causes the honing peaks to flatten and polish,preventing the rings from sealing correctly.Steve..


Cheers Sonscar!

#24 PACINO

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Posted 12 March 2024 - 02:16 PM

Hi everyone! I was able to talk to the guy who restored my engine. He told me that when he was fixing it he felt that the camshaft was going hard. He removed it up three times and rub it with a millefeuille to soften it. He says that as soon as the engine spends 10 minutes on, that hardness will disappear and it will turn smoothly.
For that first ignition attempt, he advices me inject oil through the front fitting to lubricate the circuit.
IMG-20240312-WA0008.jpg
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#25 bpirie1000

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Posted 12 March 2024 - 02:53 PM

Deafo prime the oil as he has suggested. Good practice. Give it a fighting chance of survival...

#26 Earwax

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Posted 14 March 2024 - 08:31 PM

Hi PACINO,  As bpirie and others have said , the adding of oil to the front helps prime the oil . Usually you hand turn the engine over at the radiator end Backwards to suck oil back into the oil pump. (NOTE this is definitely without spark plugs in) (Safety first and easier to spin). Best of luck



#27 PACINO

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Posted 16 March 2024 - 01:45 AM

Deafo prime the oil as he has suggested. Good practice. Give it a fighting chance of survival...


Cheers bpirie!

#28 PACINO

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Posted 16 March 2024 - 01:53 AM

Hi PACINO, As bpirie and others have said , the adding of oil to the front helps prime the oil . Usually you hand turn the engine over at the radiator end Backwards to suck oil back into the oil pump. (NOTE this is definitely without spark plugs in) (Safety first and easier to spin). Best of luck

Thanks Earwax! I've just to see your answer.

Edited by PACINO, 16 March 2024 - 01:54 AM.


#29 PACINO

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Posted 16 March 2024 - 02:17 AM

I'm going to say something that I think is not possible. If I remove the rocker assembly and the push rods before trying to turn it on? So the camshaft rotates without encountering the opposition of the double valve springs. I guess it wouldn't work without opening and closing the valves.

IMG-20240316-WA0000.jpg

#30 bpirie1000

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Posted 16 March 2024 - 03:38 AM

If you remove the rockers it will certainly not open or close any of the valves. Not really sure what you are attempting to do though..

Oil will have already got to the cam down the push rod holes towards the cam....

Just giving yourself alittle bit more of a headache and if the builder has set everything, tappets etc I would not bother. Could just drain oil and refill as required if you are so concerned or the engine has been sitting for a considerable amount of time leading to oil starvation.

The suggestion made about injecting oil into the feed pip(area highlighted) is in an attempt to, prime the oil pump. Thus giving the pump oil straight off and not letting it run with any air in it. Therefore reducing the metal on metal along with the momentary lack of oil through the block and bores where it is needed.

The most engine damage is done within the first 5 seconds of running until the oil water and things get going around the system...we are attempting to prevent damage and make sure things are tickets boo...


(No such thing as a silly question......)

Edited by bpirie1000, 16 March 2024 - 03:45 AM.





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