14 replies to this topic

[Elwyn]

Hello

1993 SPI Cooper, Uk, RHD

It's been standing for a few months.

It has fuel in the tank.

It turns over, but doesn't fire up.

It burbles into life for a second or two with a spray of easy / cold start, but then dies again.

The fuel gauge reads empty (it doesn't move). It's a replacement fuel sender. It was working fine when it last ran.

I'm thinking it's a fuel pump problem. Modern fuel. Water content (I think I've read) etc.

Is there a test to check the pump before I slash out almost £200 for a new one?

Any other ideas?

 Thank you 

Edited by Elwyn, 16 March 2024 - 04:33 PM.

[sonscar]

It should run for a few seconds when you turn the key on before cranking.Listen to it whilst someone else turns on the key.If it does not do this it is not definitely the pump faulty though but leads to more in depth faulting.Steve..

[Elwyn]

Thanks for the very quick reply, but I'm confused.

 

If I turn the key to just before the engine cranking position, should I be able to hear the pump buzz / whirr in the tank?

 

Is that what you mean?

 

I couldn't hear it from inside the car, but I'll find a friend and shove my head into the boot as they turn the key.

 

If I hear nothing at all, does that mean the pump is faulty / dead?

[Elwyn]

My wife turned the key.

I had my head in the boot with my ear as close to the tank as I could get.

I put my hand on the tank to feel for any vibrations.

No sound.

No buzzing.

Nothing.

 

A dead pump?

[minimat]

Check you have power to the pump before condemning it , have you tried  pressing the  fuel cut off button under the bonnet?

[Elwyn]

Yes, I've tried the cut off / inertia switch. 

Pressed to reset.

No better.

How's best to test the pump before condemning it?

I like the sound of not spending c£200 !!

[bpirie1000]

Have you tested the voltage at the pump?

Have a look at this should keep you busy on a Sunday....

https://www.theminif...ked-allot-pics/

[Elwyn]

Thanks.

I had a look at a few of the things in that thread.

A previous owner changed the inline fuses behind the air box to blade fuses in my car.

All blade fuses are fine.

The traditional glass tube fuses tucked up behind and to the right of the pedal box mechanism are also fine.

The inertia switch is fine (continuity established, ie power can go in and out).

 

It started getting dark, but this is where I got mixed results (mixed to me, that is)....

 

There are two wires going into the inertia switch connector in the engine bay.

One is a mucky cream colour

The other looks brown

 

There are two wires going into the connector at the top of the fuel tank in the boot

One is a mucky cream colour

The other is black

It's not the same colour as the wire at the inertia switch

 

With a multi-meter, I established that there's connectivity between the cream wire at the inertia switch and the cream wire at the connector at the top of the fuel tank.

 

But....

 

also with the multi-meter, running a trace wire from the brown (ish) wire at the inertia switch and the black wire at the connector at the top of the fuel tank....no connectivity

 

Questions:

Am I looking for connectivity where there won't be / shouldn't be any?

Or, have I perhaps found a problem? Possibly THE problem?

Despite the lack of continuity of colour

 

I know there's more to test / look into, but I wondered if anyone could explain the brown / black / no continuity I've found?

 

or point out what I'm doing wrong (usually plenty)?

 

Thanks 

[bpirie1000]

https://www.theminif...elay-pack-help/

Or

http://www.minifinit...php?f=4&t=95714

Both of the above should shed some light onto what you are attempting to get your head around.

Stick at it.. you will get there..........

[Elwyn]

Thanks

Testing the in-tank fuel pump

 

Is that as simple as connecting the T connector (on the top of the tank) directly to the battery and listening?

[bpirie1000]

Not 100% sure what you mean by T connector....

[Elwyn]

The plastic electrical connector on the top of the fuel tank is a T shape / configuration. Two spade terminal / female receivers at 90 degrees to each other. In the shape of a T. As attached (if I've done it properly)

Attached Files

•  T pin elec conector.PNG   198.43K   0 downloads

[Elwyn]

Update

I carried out as many electrical checks as I could (within my limited ability).

Everything seemed ok.

 

I took the petrol tank out of the car.

I removed the fuel sender and the fuel pump holding gadgetry from the top.

 

The fuel sender is about a year old.

It was VERY rusty.

The float mechanism no longer moved at all.

 

The fuel pump had dropped / lost its filter.

The underside of the top of the overall pump housing gadgetry was also VERY rusty.

 

The inside of the tank is spotted with quite a bit of patchy (not all over) rust.

 

New pump ordered.

 

I've cleaned and freed up the sender.

It may or may not work.

I'm trying to save money!

 

In the hope that I'm now on my way to fixing the problem (new pump), what's the best solution to the rusty (inside) tank?

 

I've seen threads and posts to links to products that de-grease, de-rust and line the inside of the tank.

POR15 and others.

The products alone look like they'll be c£100.

Plus the hassle (which I quite like)

And disposal of the chemicals.

 

A new (after market) SPI tank is about £200.

 

Any thoughts / suggestions / recommendations?

 

From experience, ideally.

 

Thanks all

Edited by Elwyn, 24 March 2024 - 01:59 PM.

[Quinlan minor]

My knowledge of tank liners is that, as a skimp on a car being prepared for sale, they're OK.

If you plan to keep and run the car, don't!

[bpirie1000]

Have seen a method of putting various nuts and bolts on large tie wrap and putti g it in the tank, then shaking the tanks round and round to loosen up all the rust and bits on the inside of the tank.
Then should be clean enough.

Plenty options but depends how rusty we are talking here...