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#136 Spider

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Posted 13 December 2025 - 06:44 AM

I should've thought about the wattage issue.

 

I can't remember exactly what resistors my machine uses but I think they are much higher resistance so the wattage can be lower. It uses 15v DC and the load is enough to spark if the points or condenser are poor. On high energy ignition systems it makes the dwell run really high but that doesn't cause any issues for testing, the manufacturer designed it (cheaply) to work with those systems.

 

As another "hack" solution, you could use light bulbs.

 

You're usually right well on the front foot with this stuff !!  40 lashings !!!!!!

Yes, light bulbs would be fine, and in all likelihood, even 21 watt or a couple of them could well be enough.



#137 gaspen

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Posted 13 December 2025 - 09:15 AM

I doubt your distributor would like that very much. The output you have here hard connected to the +12V. Given that it switches to Earth it may well damage the module.

 

It seemed strange to me too but I am a mechanic instead of electrician and I'm still learning at the age of 50  :D

 

Firstly, with a Coil, it stores energy sorta like a capacitor, however on opening the charging supply, unless it has a moderate load, it will produce a high voltage spike of a few hundred volts. I doubt the LED would like that and it's likely why the LEDs are going to god.

Secondly, on the points or module opening and thus 'firing' the coil, the charge in it doesn't disappear right away but decays over time, only millisecond, but none the less, it's not instant. If the LED survives the initial spike, the coil discharge time will keep the LED illuminated, thus totally distorting the true dwell period as observed.


That is clear, it was my first thought too and this why I should use the machine without coil. Of course I can use that way with a strobe light but it was not the goal when I started the building  :shy: 

 

 

I suggested a 2.0 Ohm Resistor as many coils for use with electronic modules seem to be 1.5 ohms and some at 0,8 ohms, (though I think some too are 3.0 ohms, so you may need to check here). Without getting too hung up on how such coils behave in an ignition circuit, from a testing perspective (with your machine) what's important is that you don't exceed the current that the module will withstand. With a 2.0 ohm resistor that's around 6 amps (and that's pretty much inline with a coil). Passing more current through it than it's rated for will usually damage the module. If it's rated for a 1.5 ohm coil, and you use a 2 ohm resistor on it, that will pass less than it's maximum rating and so will survive happily.

 

 

 

I see, it's clear too

 

Yes, light bulbs would be fine, and in all likelihood, even 21 watt or a couple of them could well be enough.

 

Somewhere in the beginning we discussed that a normal light bulb won't be fast enough in thsi application. The factory made machines used strobe bulbs or they modified them for LED's. I never saw a regular light bulb in any machine  O_O

 

Your machine can handle electronic distributors ?  I see on the manufacturer website that they produce adapters for electronic dizzys

 

123 ignition powerspark ignitor pertronix transistorzündung adapter adaptor elektronik electronic



#138 Spider

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Posted 13 December 2025 - 10:32 AM

Sorry, to be clear, you'd still use the LED as the 'strobe' on the spinning disc.

The suggestion of a bulb is to use as a load to take the place of the coil when testing electronic ignition systems, it's not to replace the LED. You'd probably want to shut the bulb away so you can't see it's light output.



#139 gaspen

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Posted 13 December 2025 - 06:44 PM

Sorry, to be clear, you'd still use the LED as the 'strobe' on the spinning disc.

The suggestion of a bulb is to use as a load to take the place of the coil when testing electronic ignition systems, it's not to replace the LED. You'd probably want to shut the bulb away so you can't see it's light output.

 

Could sketch a wiring diagram ? 



#140 Spider

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Posted 14 December 2025 - 12:47 AM

This should do it

 

Ignition-rev-01.jpg


 

the 520 ohm resistor need only be a 1/4 watt type and is based on the LED forward Current being 20 mA



#141 gaspen

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Posted 14 December 2025 - 08:15 AM

This should do it

 

Ignition-rev-01.jpg

 

the 520 ohm resistor need only be a 1/4 watt type and is based on the LED forward Current being 20 mA

 

Thats great, thank you very much !

 

I guess the resistor sholud connect to the +ve side of the LED, sure ?



#142 68+86auto

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Posted 14 December 2025 - 08:15 AM

I have been assuming that you can't just go down the road and buy a suitable resistor.



#143 68+86auto

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Posted 14 December 2025 - 08:20 AM

This should do it

 

Ignition-rev-01.jpg

 

the 520 ohm resistor need only be a 1/4 watt type and is based on the LED forward Current being 20 mA

 

Shouldn't the high wattage resistor (bulb) go to the positive terminal of the battery instead of the negative?



#144 Spider

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Posted 14 December 2025 - 09:00 AM

Shouldn't the high wattage resistor (bulb) go to the positive terminal of the battery instead of the negative?

 

 

Hahahaha,,,,, my turn ! 

That's what happens when doing 3 things at once !!

Yes, you are spot on, the bulb should connect to the battery + not the - as I have it in that diagram.
 



#145 gaspen

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Posted 14 December 2025 - 05:48 PM

Well it's working now  :proud:  Thanks all of you !

 

I've attched a 21W bulb as you described.

 

Firtst I've clamped on a brand new GEU930MS

 

I soldered the LED's and a simplpe connector on a circuit board, also added some wheel weights for balance.

 

I bent a flange for the disc but I think it's still vibrating a little and it is not completly flat. I guess a thicker material (plexi?) would be better 

 

You can see two arc  made by 2 LED's instead of a wider strip but I can live with it.

 

The starting "point" of the arc is clear and definite.

 

Finally I tested my analogue gauge : dwell is spot on (measured with a points 45D)

 

(I've made a short video also but google still working on them )

 

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Edited by gaspen, 14 December 2025 - 05:49 PM.


#146 Spider

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Posted 14 December 2025 - 07:15 PM

Good work !



#147 gaspen

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Posted 17 December 2025 - 11:31 AM

I've found 2 ohm / 50W resistor locally. It will be okay?

 

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#148 Spider

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Posted 17 December 2025 - 05:31 PM

As this set up works with a 21 watt lamp, you could use a 4.7 ohm, 50 watt resistor, if you can find one of them. that will dissipate just over 30 watts.

 

 

You could try the 2 ohm resistor, but be sure that it's not passing current ('on') continuously.

 

It will draw 6 amps and dissipate 72 watts, which if it has a duty cycle (ON to OFF time) of 50% it should be able to do - just.

 



#149 68+86auto

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Posted 17 December 2025 - 10:28 PM

You could run two in series.



#150 gaspen

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Posted 19 December 2025 - 09:44 AM

Deleted


Edited by gaspen, 22 December 2025 - 08:35 PM.





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