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Engine Died, No Start - Suggestions Please!


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#1 Smiley

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Posted 03 February 2025 - 07:33 PM

Hey!

I will try to make this long story short...

Car has been lying up for a number of years. I had it starting and driving fairly well about 6 weeks ago. There was a bit of judder on acceleration and I was trying to smoothen that out, by adjusting my fuel mixture and taking it for a drive.

As I approached my home, the car died suddenly. I pushed it up the driveway tried a few things to get it to fire up again. Jump leads connected to another vehicle didnt get her going. 5 or so litres of petrol I had to hand didnt seem to give her the juice to start up. I had to leave it at that and catch a flight....

I live and work in a different country, so I only get home to work on the Mini every 6 weeks or so for a day or two...I'm going to be home this coming weekend so I just thought I'd post this thread for suggestions on what to do to get it to start again...it was driving well, with just the slight hesitation on acceleration, before this happened...

I know there are loads of variables and possibilities as to what it could be....but I'm not very well versed in problem solving on the Mini, so I'm open to suggestions!

My thoughts (which may be way off the mark):

Because the car had been sitting up for years, maybe the alternator is goosed and wasn't charging the battery?? I did try jump start it with jumpleads from another car....

Ran out of petrol? My fuel gauge is complicit in its job and I can't trust what ot tells me.....I did add a few litres and try fire her up, but no spice...

I did quickly check the fuse for the fuel pump (and I could hear it whine - facet fuel pump) so I think that is good....

What are my next steps for fault finding from here now?

Answers on a postcard....

Quick note about the car: It's a 1330cc, with a HIF44 carb, Aldon dizzy, facet fuel pump....


Thanks in advance!

Smiley.

Edited by Smiley, 03 February 2025 - 08:11 PM.


#2 68+86auto

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Posted 03 February 2025 - 10:37 PM

The first thing to do is check the the starting system is ok. Measure the voltage at the starter when cranking for 15 seconds. 9.6v is the minimum but a mini should be higher than that. If it's low then you need to test all connections and the battery for voltage drop.

 

Next you need to check the ignition primary. Put a test light across the coil primary terminals and then see if it flashes when cranking. If it doesn't then you've got a problem with the primary wiring, points or module.



#3 Smiley

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Posted 04 February 2025 - 03:43 AM

That sounds logical! Thank you!

#4 DeadSquare

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Posted 04 February 2025 - 09:27 AM

If the 4 lobe cam in the distributor becomes rusty while the car is not used, it abrades the part of the points that rides over the cams until the cams can not lift the points open.

 

The result is that the long unused engine works ok  for a while..........



#5 slidehammer

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Posted 04 February 2025 - 10:46 AM

I would start by checking you are getting fuel up to the carb (and the fuel is good and not old)

The if you are then you need to be checking the ignition system over to make sure you have a good spark.

You can check if the alternator is charging with a voltmeter across the battery. I would think even if the alternator is junk with a jump start the car would start and run for a little bit.



#6 ings

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Posted 04 February 2025 - 02:27 PM

Basics: Air, Fuel, Spark, Compression

Since the engine was running not long ago, focus on the fuel and ignition systems first.

 

Fuel System Checks:
  • Fuel Delivery:

    • Confirm Fuel Flow: Disconnect the fuel line going to the carb and briefly crank the engine (have a container ready). Check if fuel is being delivered and how much fuel, also check the fuel for dirt.
    • Check Fuel Filter: A clogged filter can restrict flow, especially if the tank has rust or debris after sitting for years.
    • Carb Issues:  carb has a float chamber that could be stuck, or the needle valve might be blocked. Tap the carb gently to free a potentially stuck float. but best thing is to remove and service the carb.
  • Potential Issue: Old petrol varnishes and gums up the system. Even if you added fresh fuel, the lines or carb could still be clogged.

Ignition System Checks:
  • Spark Test:

    • Pull a spark plug, ground it against the engine, and crank to see if you have a strong, blue spark.
    • If no spark:
      • Check for 12V at the coil with the ignition on.
      • Check the points inside the dizzy if it's not an electronic ignition model (clean and gap them properly).
      • Test the coil itself (they can fail suddenly, especially if old).
  • Plugs and Leads: Remove plugs, check if they’re fouled with fuel or carbon. Clean or replace if needed.

Battery and Charging System:
  • Battery Voltage:

    • Even with jump leads, a really dead battery can cause poor starting.
    • Check for 12.6V with the ignition off, and around 10V minimum while cranking.
  • Alternator:

    • Not critical for starting, but if the alternator was bad, it could’ve left the battery flat when it died on you.
    • Most minis should have a Dashlight for a dead Alternator. It should light up when you start the engine and disapear 5s after start.
    • Once running, check for ~14V across the battery to confirm charging.
Compression Quick Check:
  • If you have a compression tester, great—check all cylinders.
  • If not, crank with the plugs out and feel for strong "puffs" of air from each plug hole.

If you feel different "puffs" or no "Puffs" it is rebuild time.

 



#7 Smiley

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Posted 04 February 2025 - 09:15 PM

Three very valid responses - thank you for taking the time to respond.

I wiil be at the Mini this Thursday - I will deploy this information and see how we fare out!



Thanks again!

#8 Smiley

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Posted 07 February 2025 - 12:17 PM

Checked coil with multimeter:

Primary: 3.2 ohms
Secondary: 8.74ohms

I checked voltage from positive on coil to the body/earth of the car with the ignition turned on and got a reading of 7.4V. It should read 12V.....what would cause there to be low or no voltage here?

Battery is fully charged showing 12.8V.
Upon cranking battery voltage goes down to 10.5 or so, but not below 10V.....which should be a healthy battery...

Edited by Smiley, 07 February 2025 - 12:58 PM.


#9 mab01uk

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Posted 07 February 2025 - 12:43 PM

As mentioned above check your new fuel has actually reached the carb as old fuel goes off after a few months and results in rough running or non starting issues. Also if a car has been stood for a long time the fuel tank and carb float chamber can have a build up of sediment debris from the old fuel breaking down which eventually blocks the carb jets, etc, even if it initially starts and runs ok. It is a good idea to fit an inline fuel filter before the carb to prevent that happening.

 

Note: Petrol does not go off so quickly in fuel injected cars as the fuel system is sealed from the atmosphere unlike most older carb based fuel systems.

 

Also be aware that modern fuels such as E10 are higher in Ethanol content which attacks many older flexible fuel pipes and carb components which should be replaced with Ethanol resistant items to prevent future leaks.


Edited by mab01uk, 07 February 2025 - 12:52 PM.


#10 andyapanel

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Posted 07 February 2025 - 12:45 PM

If I understand you correctly, it sounds as if the earth strap is not doing its job.

Attach a jump lead between the engine and body and see if the voltage reading changes.

Good luck.



#11 Smiley

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Posted 07 February 2025 - 01:22 PM

Fuel is good. Earth strap seems well mounted and clean.

The 7.5V on the ignition coil is my concern at the moment. How do I not have 12V at the + on my coil with the ignition on?

#12 sonscar

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Posted 07 February 2025 - 01:50 PM

Take the wire off and measure.it could be a load pulling the voltage down.if ok then refit it and pull off the wires on the negative terminal.Low measured voltage can be caused by a high resistance before the tester or a load pulling it down.Steve..



#13 Smiley

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Posted 07 February 2025 - 02:36 PM

Just tested the + cablr from battery, its reading just under 12V....

Can you explain that again to me please? The part about the negative wires/terminal....

#14 Steam

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Posted 08 February 2025 - 12:19 AM

You need to test the wire going to the coil positive, disconnected. This will show whether the fault is supply or load related. Also measure to body earth as well as engine earth to see if there is any difference in xoltage.

Edited by Steam, 08 February 2025 - 12:20 AM.


#15 Smiley

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Posted 08 February 2025 - 01:38 AM

Disconnected from the coil? That is what I done. I got a reading of just under 12V...11.8V or so....

I think I did check engine and body earth, it was the same.....but I will double check in the morning!

Could it be that I have the wrong coil? I think mine is Non ballast and I should have a ballasted? Would a Non Ballasted coil work on the wiring of a ballasted coil and then fail after a while?! I have no idea, but as I try to make sense of this I'm thinking that might be the scenario here....(if even possible!)

I can't get a ballasted coil to try out unfortunately, nobody stocks them nearby.....and I fly out tomorrow evening....




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