40 replies to this topic

[Smiley]

Hello again.

I'm still at it. Trying to get this yoke to fire up!!

I have spark at all 4 spark plugs. (Just installed a new cap, rotor, leads and plugs to rule them out)

10.9v across the battery while cranking.

The issue seems to be a fuelling issue.

I have taken the carb apart, its all immaculately clean inside fitted at the parts from the newly acquired rebuild kit.

Set the float height in the bowl to 1mm below the height of the body when upside down. Set the jet height two turns below flush. (as per AC Dodd/DS3Shooter youtube tutorials.

If i take the dashpot off and blow through the overflow pipe the fuel squirts up out of the jet with ease.

My needle seems straight and piston moves freely.

If I blow through the overflow pipe while cranking it doesnt help it fire.

Where do people see my problem here? Is my needle getting jammed when i refit it?! Any other suggestions welcome.

Thank you again.

Smiley.

[Quinlan minor]

Will it start on Ether?

If so, points to fuelling problem.

[Smiley]

I haven't tried. Have been using carb cleaner in the past which had worked, but not anymore...

Edited by Smiley, 27 June 2025 - 12:05 PM.

[Smiley]

It's alive!!!!

I went and got some easy start as suggested. I hooked on the jump leads from another vehicle (engine running) and went at it. A few squirts of easy start and a whole heap of cranking, but she fired up!

The thing is: it cranked and cranked and cranked and gradually, rather reluctantly, it could be heard beginning to fire. After about 2 minutes of non stop cranking it got to the point where it sounded like it was running. I let off the key - it was running, well,let's say whimpering.....i gave it some throttle, played with the choke.....then when it warmed up a bit i adjusted the idle screw, took off the choke and had it idling quite nicely around 900RPM.

My question is this - why the really reallylong drawn out start up? Does that indicate anything? Do i have an underlying problem?

I knocked it off for 3 minutes. Tried it again and with a bit of hesitation at first, it started up again and idled.

Oil pressure is reading 60psi. (Thoughts on that?)

I have no temperature reading at the minute so for fear of boiling it, I have knocked it off for now.

Any tboughts these points?! Im not out of woods for sure but it is nice to hear it run again!

[cal844]

Sounds lean to me

[68+86auto]

Post some photos of the engine bay and carb on the engine.

[Smiley]

Carb is a HIF44. I dont have any photos at hand.

What do you need to know/see?!

I have since installed a new coolant temperature sensor and Smith Temp gauge. Car sits nicely at/a bit above half way on the temp gauge.

Will need to drive it more to see how it goes or if it overheats whike driving.

[68+86auto]

Carb is a HIF44. I dont have any photos at hand.

What do you need to know/see?!

I have since installed a new coolant temperature sensor and Smith Temp gauge. Car sits nicely at/a bit above half way on the temp gauge.

Will need to drive it more to see how it goes or if it overheats whike driving.

Looking to spot incorrectly connected hoses, linkages or leads.

[Smiley]

I will send a photo next time I am at the car.

[Earwax]

Just throwing some thoughts out there: my guess it is a combination of the thoughts above

 

Long struggling start up possibilities

 

a) cold oil    -   on race cars , a secondary battery is plugged in to assist with sharing the load of initially turning over the engine . Generally - without plugs at first  and then in short bursts until a definite flicker on the oil pressure gauge

                       - some put in hotter plug in for the initial plug start ( NGK 5 )   

b) still power related ... a 660 cca battery turns just about anything over

 

c) contributing factors ( tearing hair out )

 

Fuel pump working against pressure

Test

Fuel tank / line not venting so fuel pump struggles as pressure builds up.  take the fuel cap off and listen for whoosh(keep it off for a while) or check fuel filter(s) If you have a proper filter at the pump and another near the carb - take one out. Hif overflow line clear?

 

Inlet manifold air leak - hard to check this until the unit actually fires - spray water/ wd 40 around the gasket face to hear change of sounds

 

I would also be tempted to pinch an inlet manifold and carb unit ( known good) to cross some variables off if you still cant get on top of it.  Good luck

[62S]

Do you have a good spark on all four plugs?

 

The initial symptoms sound like probable condenser failure but, as DeadSquare opined, it could be the points closing up.

 

If you do buy a replacement condenser don't buy an off the shelf new one, look for new old stock or try Distributor Doctor; the same goes for the rotor arm.