34 replies to this topic

[Midas Mk1]

If the pads have got that hot to fade they’ll be glazed, had a similar experience with the ebc black stuffs.

I dailyed with m1144s even in the snow, now run green stuffs and have only got them to fade after a good half hour of thrashing.

Dot 4 wise, highly recommend ate super blue typ200, bang for buck one of the best imo.

[cal844]

I have used 1144 pads in road cars and short oval race cars and they perform in both.

Drain and refill with fresh DOT4 fluid (check rear wheel cylinders for perishing/ weeping whilst you are bleeding brakes.)

In addition to this, I have EBC pads on my 1980 Clubman Estate and the dust levels are extreme in under 5k miles. (I fitted a Huddersfield mini spares 7.5 inch disc kit, so pads are what came with this....)

I certainly will be upgrading when I need to.

Edited by cal844, 17 August 2025 - 07:52 PM.

[timmy850]

Did you bed the pads in as per the manufacturer instructions?

When I put some new green stuff pads in I did the initial bedding in, then on a long downhill section I had all the symptoms of fade: smell, smoke and very poor braking. I stopped at the bottom and let them cool off and they’ve been great ever since then

[Rubbershorts]

Did you bed the pads in as per the manufacturer instructions?

When I put some new green stuff pads in I did the initial bedding in, then on a long downhill section I had all the symptoms of fade: smell, smoke and very poor braking. I stopped at the bottom and let them cool off and they’ve been great ever since then

They've been on the car for six months, working very well in all that time. Then suddenly this problem occurs. The first time it happened the hill wasn't really that bad,and I've been down it before no problems.

[Rubbershorts]

If the pads have got that hot to fade they’ll be glazed, had a similar experience with the ebc black stuffs.

I dailyed with m1144s even in the snow, now run green stuffs and have only got them to fade after a good half hour of thrashing.

Dot 4 wise, highly recommend ate super blue typ200, bang for buck one of the best imo.

Which green stuffs are you using?

[Rubbershorts]

I have used 1144 pads in road cars and short oval race cars and they perform in both.

Drain and refill with fresh DOT4 fluid (check rear wheel cylinders for perishing/ weeping whilst you are bleeding brakes.)

In addition to this, I have EBC pads on my 1980 Clubman Estate and the dust levels are extreme in under 5k miles. (I fitted a Huddersfield mini spares 7.5 inch disc kit, so pads are what came with this....)

I certainly will be upgrading when I need to.

The dust level on these is very low. Did you mean you'll be upgrading to the M1144s. Daz.

[Shooter63]

I totally agree with Weef here change your fluid, if you can find a set of NOS pads fit them, there is a company up north that specialises in NOS parts, if I can find there address I'll post it. I'm going to come on strong here, under no circumstances fit carbon pads if somebody comes on here and recommends them, they are total ******* on a road car, all proper race pads need heat in them to work which is no problem for race or rally but not on the road. Road pads must work instantly any time lag before the pads work is a big no no.
I like to use this as an analogy, let's say you are driving along and your child/grand child sees you and runs out in the road to wave at you, on road pads you stop, on race pads you hit them.

Shooter

Thanks Shooter. When you say NOS, what do you mean exactly?

New old Stock

Shooter

[mbolt998]

I don't think you can expect to drag the brakes on down a hill like that and get away with it in a car of this vintage (I wouldn't even in a new car). Just put it in a lower gear.

[bpirie1000]

I would also suggest looking at the flexi pipes. Always good practise to change these out, espeially when brakes are not behaving... these can either swell causing visial balooning.. or collapse where fluid is not able to flow as freely as it should internally... causing big issues...
I have tested these before with an open ended flexi and press pedal right down to the floor, measuring the fluid on each side. Was an eye opener for me...
Either way you are doing something about it.. that is always best... do not ignore it...

Edited by bpirie1000, Yesterday, 07:02 AM.

[beardylondon]

NOS = New Old Stock

Edited by beardylondon, Yesterday, 07:57 AM.

[Rubbershorts]

So the new old stock thing, why should I be looking at these? Are they the original items that in time will no longer exist? Wouldn't it be better to find something current that is suitable, to make it future proof? Appreciate all the advice as usual. Daz.

[bpirie1000]

Nos is generally established to be better quality....

Repro parts have a poor shelf life these days as materials use differ massively.

They usually fit better also... original specification moulds and patterns.

[Artstu]

I used work on the production line making OE spec Mini brake pads when I worked for Ferodo, I ran them on my car, I'd get brake fade with very spirited driving over the Cat and Fiddle road on them, perhaps the front skirt on the Midas reduced the air-flow in comparison to a Mini. I'm under the impression that brake pads made these days are far better than the OE ones.

[Cooperman]

As stated above, you won't beat the Mintex 1144 for general road use. Even they can be faded if used super-aggressively, in which case go for the Mintex 1166.

With 10" wheels and 'S' brakes, the Mini Spares Carbon-Metallic are absolutely fantastic, but not available for 8.4" discs.

With the 1166 and the C-M pads it's possible to get the discs actually glowing red hot without any fade, so long as competition brake fluid is used.  

[Rubbershorts]

Would it be these? The blurb isn't clear but does mention M1144. Mine are 8.4s

https://www.minispar...tex-m1802-mlb37