My neighbour had the Wipac lights on his Defender and they're very good. The Ebay copies are awful, beware. I have some pictures of the beam pattern of the Ebay lights on an MOT beam test machine, it's hilarious.
Lighting Upgrade
#31
Posted 05 May 2026 - 01:55 PM
#32
Posted 05 May 2026 - 01:58 PM
#33
Posted 05 May 2026 - 02:01 PM
My neighbour had the Wipac lights on his Defender and they're very good. The Ebay copies are awful, beware. I have some pictures of the beam pattern of the Ebay lights on an MOT beam test machine, it's hilarious.
#34
Posted 05 May 2026 - 03:15 PM
Are those Wipac quadoptics that he's got? Thinking about replacing my old Lucas 7669 HCR 20R with one of those, but I heard Lucas units perform better, might be wrong tho, so many different opinions of which one's better, get's confusing xd.
Not Quadoptics, he had the led.
#35
Posted 05 May 2026 - 05:13 PM
Attached Files
#36
Posted 14 May 2026 - 12:31 PM
Information from Hella from years ago.
Below is a table illustrating the severe reduction in light output experienced during volt drop.
Operating Light
Voltage Output
% %
100 100
95 83
90 67
85 53
Edited by SolarB, 14 May 2026 - 12:33 PM.
#37
Posted 03 October 2026 - 08:08 PM
Try Philips Ultinon Pro6000 LED bulbs. They are coming with certification also for the UK as far as I can see. They are road legal with the E11 0035 marked 7" lamps, as used on the Rover Minis past 97.
All you'll have to modify is the parking light socket. They're different pre 97. Sockets for the new lamps are available from the Bay and it's an easy job with a soldering iron or you crimp them in. Use Osram LED W5W bulbs for the sidelamps. They also are universally road legal across the EU - I think I remember, also in the UK.
The light color is bright white for both. Believe me, they're incredible. On my Cooper they are so bright that they out-shine the additional driving lights where the beams overlap. Vision range is about 2 times H4 standard.
Added benefit: power consumption is 18W instead of 55W H4. 36W instead of 110W running through the light switch on the dash. 3A instead of 9A if I calculate correctly. In any case, the light switch didn't need replacing since I first fitted them despite running the car with lights always on. If you pull it out and feel it after a 2h drive it's not feelably warm whereas with the H4 the pins get so hot, the little spring in the switch pushes it trough the (molten) plastic on the rear of the switch.
H4 vs Philips Ultinon6000Pro.jpg 29.94K
1 downloads
Left: H4 - Right: Philps LED plus Osram side light
Edited by tarnofsky, 03 October 2026 - 08:10 PM.
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