18 replies to this topic

[Murrayup]

So it’s time to bleed my 998 clubman’s brakes. So where do I start, which side what brake fluid etc.
Regards Ian.

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[Ethel]

Fluid should be the same as what's in there, which is usually DOT4. I've never found the order to be that critical, but start farthest from the master & do one circuit before moving on to the other. 

 

It would be useful to know what the setup is.: single circuit; diagonal or front-rear split; FAM7821 or another regulator valve...

[timmy850]

I like starting with the “gravity bleed” method. Crack the back two bleeders and keep topping up the brake fluid in the reservoir until there are no more bubbles. Once they are clear I do the same at the front end. After that I repeat at the rear one more time and then proceed with normal pedal bleeding

It’s worth noting the adjustment on the rear drums has to be spot on, otherwise you’ll get a soft pedal

[alpder]

If you don't have one, a Gunson's EeziBleed is well worth getting. Cheaper, surely just as good, generics are available.

 

It'll let you do a fill-up and first bleed single-handed.

 

Bleed order is to start with the longest master-to-wheel pipework and work towards the shortest. If filling the system from empty then when finished go round and bleed again, in case a little air has migrated from an empty pipe into a filled one. And I like to go around again one final time with someone pushing the pedal to drive out any trapped bubbles. On mine, for example, a few bubbles get trapped in the rear limiter but the extra velocity of a pedal-push dislodges them. This does mean you'll get through a fair amount of fluid, for the first fill-up. (Brand new fresh bled-off fluid which has been collected at the wheels can theoretically be re-used, provided the collection equipment is clean, and provided it's allowed to stand for a while to let any tiny bubbles in it escape. But keeping the bleed pipe and collection kit totally clean is near impossible unless the car itself is very clean. When re-bleeding in future years - to flush the system with fresh - you certainly don't want to reuse the fluid anyway.)

 

Assuming standard components and assuming there's not something else already in the system, then DOT4 would be my choice of fluid (and change it every two years.) But beware that DOT4 moonlights as a paint-stripper - if any gets on paint quickly wash it off with water.

 

Edit: Be cautious about bleeding with the drums off. I've never tried it but I imagine that an enthusiastic or mis-timed pedal-push might pop a piston out of a cylinder.

Edited by alpder, 12 March 2026 - 11:16 AM.

[Ethel]

Good advice, being over keen is likely to create bubbles and trip regulator valves.

[alpder]

Good advice, being over keen is likely to create bubbles and trip regulator valves.

Yes - a good pedal-push will definitely trip the early single-circuit rear limiter. Trick is to get the pedal-pusher to press just fast enough but not too fast, and to only start pressing after the nipple is open. Worrying how much air comes out from it - its design seems to naturally trap air when mounted horizontal.

[coopertaz]

if system is totally dry you may need to crack master cylinder unions to prime this. also beware bulkhead mounted limiter can be operated if you bleed fronts first with system totally empty then wondre why you have no or poor rear brakes (speaking from past experience!)

[bpirie1000]

I always think rear first and they are 40% brake efficiency and therfore less important..

Then... fronts are most important. 60% of efficiency so system should have no bubbles left by the time you get there...

Oh and I would say..

DISPOSABLE GLOVES...

CERTAINLY CONVERTED OF LATE...

[Murrayup]

Thanks guys went for the gravity method first. Will get a second person involved tomorrow.
Almost finished the bleed when the back of the car fell off its axle stands.
By good luck I wasn’t under it.
NEVER OVER EXTEND AXLE STANDS.
Regards, Ian.

[croc7]

FIRSTINFO A1157US Patented Vacuum Brake Bleeder- Hand-Free Operation and Rugged Design | Made in Taiwan.                                                                                                                                                                     

 

Available from Amazon (of course), works great if you have shop air or a compressor.  Once the car was off the ground and the bleeder installed, it took me about 1/2 hour to completely flush the brake fluid on the mini, same for the SAAB.  The majority of that time was taken to move the adaptor/nipple to a different wheel cylinder - once that task is done, all you have to do is stand over the reservoir and top it off as the fluid is drained.  If the master cylinder is new, you might want to bench bleed it before installation. 

Edited by croc7, 16 March 2026 - 10:10 PM.

[Ethel]

Thanks guys went for the gravity method first. Will get a second person involved tomorrow.
Almost finished the bleed when the back of the car fell off its axle stands.
By good luck I wasn’t under it.
NEVER OVER EXTEND AXLE STANDS.
Regards, Ian.

 I didn't twig from your piccy... If that's from before the mishap, it could be the problem was more that it wasn't level, though the bit of timber also looks a little precarious. It would be better with the length in line with the car so it won't roll or slip off in the direction the  car will go on its front wheels ( which would be worth chocking The floor should be plenty strong enough with a timber spreader to transfer the load to the inner sill, heal board & even the cross member under the front seats. That's used by the factory jacking point anyway & as a most of a mini's weight is up front it'd be stable enough for an axle stand, not to mention harder to slip off one.

[bpirie1000]

Throw a couple spare wheels under there strong part of the body, save the back plates of the brakes getting damaged..

[Rubbershorts]

Thanks guys went for the gravity method first. Will get a second person involved tomorrow.
Almost finished the bleed when the back of the car fell off its axle stands.
By good luck I wasn’t under it.
NEVER OVER EXTEND AXLE STANDS.
Regards, Ian.

That sounds terrifying Ian. Was there any/much damage? Daz.

[Murrayup]

No damage guys except to my pride.

[Murrayup]

So I bought the Gunson easy bleed from Halfords. What a piece of rubbish. Managed to assemble the right master cylinder screw top and rubber seal. Hooked it all up as instructions 20psi from tyre etc. No pressure! however a loud hissing from the top of the plastic brake fluid container. The black pressure line from the tyre was loose in the cap and there was no way of tightening it I tried putting it in the vice and tapping it from the inside of the cap, no joy still leaked. Retuned it to Halfords and asked to see another one, it too was loose! Pointed this out to Halfords staff asked them to contact head office and Gunson.
Got full refund £22.95. But lost half a days work on the clubman.
Anyone know of a true classic mini garage in north Herts.
Keep spannering everyone.
Regards Ian.